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Car Audio

post #1 of 33
Thread Starter 
so im not sure if this is in the right place..... just move it if im wrong...
so i jsut picked up Alpine Type-R SWR-1242D - Car subwoofer driver - 500 Watt - 12" time 2
me and my brother have made my box and dynomatted the car but im still a noob. I need to know what amp to buy i was looking at the mrp m1000.... well is that ok and wat cables and deck do you guys recommend
post #2 of 33
If you wire the subs in the box for parallel or add a crossover that will drop it down to 2ohm doesn't make it louder but gives a more realistic sound less resistance as for amp I would go with this one.

http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...-HFi1500D.html

Do you already have your amp install kit? If not check this out.

http://www.knukonceptz.com/productDe...odID=KOL-AK4-4

What kind of box did you put your subs in?
Edited by 0ptic0n - 6/20/11 at 10:48pm
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post #3 of 33
Thread Starter 
we used the higher end wood and sealed it with the proper size port. i havent purchased the amp yet and thanks fo rthe links +rep
post #4 of 33
When you do get your amp make sure you grind paint down to bare metal use a copper end to crimp to the cable and it couldn't hurt to add another ground to your battery. Don't forget about the alternator run another power wire from it to your battery it will get more power that will help a ton if you notice lights dim when your blasting it high. Wire size for that 2 or 4 gauge can be found at parts store just make sure its twisted wire none of that stuff with aluminum in it adds more resistance.

Don't bother with a capacitor until after you redo power and ground wires for your battery you shouldn't need it.

Also for subs momo class D
Edited by 0ptic0n - 6/21/11 at 2:29pm
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post #5 of 33
Quote:
Originally Posted by 0ptic0n View Post
If you wire the subs in the box for parallel or add a crossover that will drop it down to 2ohm doesn't make it louder but gives a more realistic sound less resistance as for amp I would go with this one.

http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...-HFi1500D.html

Do you already have your amp install kit? If not check this out.

http://www.knukonceptz.com/productDe...odID=KOL-AK4-4

What kind of box did you put your subs in?


Uhh... 2x 12" subs w/ DUAL 4 Ohm voice coils...

Unless you plan to amp them separately, your only options are 4ohms (series VCs, Parallel Drivers) or 1ohm (Parallel VCs & Drivers)

The mrd 1000 will only do 600 watts RMS at like 4 ohms, so it will work, but the type R's can handle more power. I do not think that the mrd 1000 can do 1ohm, not to mention it probably wouldn't sound all that great.

I would have went with the S type tbh, the R's sound sloppy imo and the SQ/SPL balance of the S types is just right.
    
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post #6 of 33
Thread Starter 
well its our fist amps and they were sold to us at what we thought was a decent price
post #7 of 33
What's your budget?
post #8 of 33
Quote:
Originally Posted by rmp459 View Post
Uhh... 2x 12" subs w/ DUAL 4 Ohm voice coils...

Unless you plan to amp them separately, your only options are 4ohms (series VCs, Parallel Drivers) or 1ohm (Parallel VCs & Drivers)

The mrd 1000 will only do 600 watts RMS at like 4 ohms, so it will work, but the type R's can handle more power. I do not think that the mrd 1000 can do 1ohm, not to mention it probably wouldn't sound all that great.

I would have went with the S type tbh, the R's sound sloppy imo and the SQ/SPL balance of the S types is just right.
(series/parallel) = 4 ohm load
Voice coils wired in series, speakers wired in parallel
Stable at 4, 2, or 1ohm mono
post #9 of 33
Thread Starter 
budget isnt huge here im jsut looking so when i look in stores. New to you, lol i have an idea what im getting into
post #10 of 33
Quote:
Originally Posted by Onions View Post
budget isnt huge here im jsut looking so when i look in stores. New to you, lol i have an idea what im getting into
its easy. You know your looking for a monoblock amp. Impedance means 4 ohm will draw twice the amount of 8ohms. So for example a amp can supply 200w for 8ohm 100w for 4ohms. Connect them up in series you add them up. So 2x 4ohms will give you 8. Parallel it would be halfed 2x 4ohms will give you 2 basically.
You get Single Voice Coil (SVC) and Dual Voice Coil (DVC) speakers. A SVC speaker has one voice coil and one set of terminals, one positive and one negative. A DVC speaker has two voice coils, each with its own set of terminals. Because of this, DVC speakers typically subwoofers got more wiring options than SVC speakers.

If you see a amp that got 'Max Ratings' in between its specs look straight past it. The crap ones you will see that spec on it.
Alpine, Linear Power, Orion, Eclipse, etc etc will never post such a spec on their amps.
To spot the good amps from the pretenders look at the efficiency. Takes a bit of quick calculations but you don't need spot on. Look at the rms values they provide. If its a 200w amp then just look at the fuse. If the fuse is 20A walk away.
Why? Always make it 50 percent to make it easy for yourself. So 400w in and 200w out. Now a car battery produces bout 14.4v which is 35A.

Now look at the Amp 14.4v x 20A (fuse) gives you 280w but they say 200w. That gives you what a efficiency of around 90 percent which is crap. A class a/b amp runs 66 percent efficient so someone is talking crap. So just take the rms value x 2 then check the fuse and x the value by 14.4v. Then the first total devided by the second total will give you your efficiency. It should be around 40 percent to 50 percent or in the class a/b range of 66 percent. If its over that they're talking crap.

If your looking for a bass amp ignore the snr values because they're snr numbers are normally crap.

See not so difficult. You don't need to know who's crap and who's not. You can work it out yourself and you will see the bogus from the good ones
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