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Car Audio - Page 2

post #11 of 33
Surprised no asked this.

What kind of car/model?
post #12 of 33
2 Type Rs sounds like a 1200W amp. Look at an Audioque 1200D, or an Audiopipe AP10001D/Ap15001D. Wire it at 1 OHM and you'll be fine.
Budget. <3
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Budget. <3
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post #13 of 33
If you seriously intend to seek high sound pressure levels, you may want to consider your hearing amongst other things. I don't know about your plans, but high end car audio is a near bottomless money pit. You probably realize you'll need to upgrade your alternator, add a battery isolator (200 amp?) and a second battery just for your audio gear (gel cell variant.) You'll also need to get under your car's rear end and use loctite on the various nuts holding the shocks in place etc.

Another poster mentioned Orion amps. The old HCCA series were known as cheater amps for good reason and can be had 'relatively' cheap second hand. you want to think this project through as you purchase parts. Seems you have the bass part down. Think about a balanced system for the midbass (separate amp) and the mids and highs (yet another amp.) I once spent 6 years accumulating new parts for an audio system then bought the minivan in which to install it. This is not a cheap hobby. Good luck with your build. I hope your vehicle doesn't literally fall apart from the vibes. It should not be a problem to get down to 19hz with those subs properly setup.
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post #14 of 33
Thread Starter 
biggrin.gif thnx
post #15 of 33
Quote:
Originally Posted by Spooony;14054709 
its easy. You know your looking for a monoblock amp. Impedance means 4 ohm will draw twice the amount of 8ohms. So for example a amp can supply 200w for 8ohm 100w for 4ohms. Connect them up in series you add them up. So 2x 4ohms will give you 8. Parallel it would be halfed 2x 4ohms will give you 2 basically.
You get Single Voice Coil (SVC) and Dual Voice Coil (DVC) speakers. A SVC speaker has one voice coil and one set of terminals, one positive and one negative. A DVC speaker has two voice coils, each with its own set of terminals. Because of this, DVC speakers typically subwoofers got more wiring options than SVC speakers.

If you see a amp that got 'Max Ratings' in between its specs look straight past it. The crap ones you will see that spec on it.
Alpine, Linear Power, Orion, Eclipse, etc etc will never post such a spec on their amps.
To spot the good amps from the pretenders look at the efficiency. Takes a bit of quick calculations but you don't need spot on. Look at the rms values they provide. If its a 200w amp then just look at the fuse. If the fuse is 20A walk away.
Why? Always make it 50 percent to make it easy for yourself. So 400w in and 200w out. Now a car battery produces bout 14.4v which is 35A.

Now look at the Amp 14.4v x 20A (fuse) gives you 280w but they say 200w. That gives you what a efficiency of around 90 percent which is crap. A class a/b amp runs 66 percent efficient so someone is talking crap. So just take the rms value x 2 then check the fuse and x the value by 14.4v. Then the first total devided by the second total will give you your efficiency. It should be around 40 percent to 50 percent or in the class a/b range of 66 percent. If its over that they're talking crap.

If your looking for a bass amp ignore the snr values because they're snr numbers are normally crap.

See not so difficult. You don't need to know who's crap and who's not. You can work it out yourself and you will see the bogus from the good ones

most sub amps though are class D and carry a much higher efficiency then a/b
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post #16 of 33
Quote:
Originally Posted by Blindsay;14095849 
most sub amps though are class D and carry a much higher efficiency then a/b

excuse me. A/B is the most common amp design with car audio
Most car amplifiers that have Class A circuitry are really Class A/Class AB hybrids.
Edited by Spooony - 7/4/11 at 5:07pm
post #17 of 33
Quote:
Originally Posted by Spooony;14106237 
excuse me. A/B is the most common amp design with car audio
Most car amplifiers that have Class A circuitry are really Class A/Class AB hybrids.

most monoblock amps are usually Class D, go look at any alpine or jl sub amp for starters.
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post #18 of 33
Quote:
Originally Posted by Blindsay;14106823 
most monoblock amps are usually Class D, go look at any alpine or jl sub amp for starters.

oh you said monoblock sorry didn't see that. Yeah they're class d 99 percent of them but they're 1 channel so its (rms per channel ) x amp ineffeciency (normally 70 percent) / 13.8 = A
Class D ain't 90 percent efficient they're around 70 percent efficient. I mentioned speakers so it was to work out a amp ratings basically. Monoblock you don't see much over 500w and it will always be multiplied by 1
post #19 of 33
Quote:
Originally Posted by Spooony;14108811 
oh you said monoblock sorry didn't see that. Yeah they're class d 99 percent of them but they're 1 channel so its (rms per channel ) x amp ineffeciency (normally 70 percent) / 13.8 = A
Class D ain't 90 percent efficient they're around 70 percent efficient. I mentioned speakers so it was to work out a amp ratings basically. Monoblock you don't see much over 500w and it will always be multiplied by 1

yeah i figured since the OP mentioned a sub, a monoblock amp would be applicable biggrin.gif

Maybe im missing reading your last sentance but not many over 500w?

I know JL has like 5 over 500w and alpine has like 4 (im just most familiar with their products)

also i think some of the Class D amps sit around 80% the alpine PDX-M12 (its pretty damn small for a 1200wrms amp on a side note lol) for example is rated for 1200wrms at 14.4v its fused at 100a so at 14.4v x 100amp = 1440w which gives it about 80% effeciency.

Sure there are some that are worse, but i think a lot of the better amps are around 80% (class d of course)
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post #20 of 33
Just so you know, subwoofers only reproduce effectively a very small band of sound. (30Hz to 80Hz) As such, dont waste too much money on an amp for a sub. What you are going to want is a class D amp, and spend the extra cash on the crossovers incorporated into the amp itself?

I have installed several of these amps (Zeff designed) $270 shipped
http://cgi.ebay.com/Clarion-Clarion-XH7110-850-Watt-Mono-Amplifier-XH7110-/140437508651?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item20b2ba522b#ht_1659wt_887

But a cheaper alternative for just raw power with less crossover options is this one: $120 shipped
http://cgi.ebay.com/NEW-MB-QUART-FX1-600-600W-MONOBLOCK-Car-Amplifier-Amp-/350455539156?pt=Car_Amplifiers&hash=item5198c725d4#ht_3872wt_930


I still recommend the Clarion. That amp will be with you the rest of your life....
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