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post #1681 of 7165
I finally build my system now, but have a couple of problems. When I start my pc the post bios says "cpu fan error" and I have to press f1 to enter setup. Then I just exit and then I can boot my system. I have my cpu-cooler, be quiet! dark rock advanced, plugged in into cpu_fan. What are bios whining about? Also, where in bios do I boost my cpufan? it seems to be very low because temps are 30-35 in idle, but want it to go a bit quicker so I can get 25-30 in temps. The be quiet fan is very quiet i've heard from a friend, which has it on max speed via molex, so just wanted to crank it a bit up.

I have asus maximus V gene btw. I've installed chipset and network drivers. Any more I should download? Like usb 3.0, intel controller for ssd or something?
post #1682 of 7165
Quote:
Originally Posted by zelly View Post

I finally build my system now, but have a couple of problems. When I start my pc the post bios says "cpu fan error" and I have to press f1 to enter setup. Then I just exit and then I can boot my system. I have my cpu-cooler, be quiet! dark rock advanced, plugged in into cpu_fan. What are bios whining about? Also, where in bios do I boost my cpufan? it seems to be very low because temps are 30-35 in idle, but want it to go a bit quicker so I can get 25-30 in temps. The be quiet fan is very quiet i've heard from a friend, which has it on max speed via molex, so just wanted to crank it a bit up.
I have asus maximus V gene btw. I've installed chipset and network drivers. Any more I should download? Like usb 3.0, intel controller for ssd or something?

The cpu fan error means when the bios checked the fans they were too low. If you know for a fact that its fine just disable it in the bios. I turned my warning off. I would get that sometimes but I have an antec kuhler 920.
2014 nerd box evo
(18 items)
 
   
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
AMD 1100T x6 4244mhz 3065cpu-nb (fx8150 at 4.9g... Asus Crosshair V Formula Asus gtx570 dcII- 890/1780/2200@1088mv corsair dominator gt 8GB 1866 @1886 
Hard DriveOptical DriveCoolingOS
corsair f120ssd/seagate 1TB Asus cd/dvd burner Antec Kuhler 920 semi-custom loop (2 radiators) win7 professional 64bit 
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Gateway 23" 1920x1080 corsair ax850 Rosewill blackhawk w/hdd bay mod logitech mx518 
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2014 nerd box evo
(18 items)
 
   
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
AMD 1100T x6 4244mhz 3065cpu-nb (fx8150 at 4.9g... Asus Crosshair V Formula Asus gtx570 dcII- 890/1780/2200@1088mv corsair dominator gt 8GB 1866 @1886 
Hard DriveOptical DriveCoolingOS
corsair f120ssd/seagate 1TB Asus cd/dvd burner Antec Kuhler 920 semi-custom loop (2 radiators) win7 professional 64bit 
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Gateway 23" 1920x1080 corsair ax850 Rosewill blackhawk w/hdd bay mod logitech mx518 
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post #1683 of 7165
551

Sold old amd computer at a profit. Able to build this i5 2500k z77 comp with money to spare.

Sad that my Corsair A70 isn't 1155 compatible, want to oc'd this to hell and back.
Currently have 9800gtx+, waiting for 660ti release to weigh in against amd.
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My System
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i5 4670k Asrock z87e itx Sapphire 580 Nitro 8gb 16gb Averix 2400mhz 
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post #1684 of 7165
Quote:
Originally Posted by psyclum View Post

this is where most of the misunderstanding about liquid cooling comes from. most people think liquid cooling actually "cool down" the components... they don't. liquid cooling "transports" heat away from the heat source. AFTER it has been "transported" away from the heat source, then it can be "air cooled" by the fans through the radiators. the water itself is only a transporting medium not the actual cooling engine. the cooling engine is still the surface area that the radiator has and the amount of air flowing through it via the push/pull fans to dissipate the heat.
what you are proposing is dumping the 95 watt (cpu) thermal load onto the 195watt (gpu) thermal load while expecting the "smaller" radiator of the 2 to cool down a combined load of 290watts of thermal energy. IF the smaller radiator is unable to cool down that combined energy load, then that energy is transported BACK to the GPU via the continuous water flow creating a thermal feedback loop.
remember, the advantage of a liquid cooling system is it TRANSPORTS heat away from the heat source so that heat load can be cooled down elsewhere. somewhere that will have less size restriction for the amount of surface area to dissipating the heat load.

Excellent explanation! thumb.gif Now that got me thinking, I am running a 180mm magicool rad(stock fan) and intend to have a XSPC EX120 rad(GT 1850) on the rear exhaust. So technically, after the heat transfers to air from the 180mm rad, it now goes to the 120mm rad. My 120mm rad gets hot air so is it any useful at all(even a little). I am intending to cool a i5 2500K and a GTX680/7970(pending) and I know its been asked alot in this thread if 180+120mm is enough for cooling these 2 components. Also, by having push pull on the 120mm rad, would it help much since more hot air is exhausted out faster.

Another solution is having a high fpi rad with a high rpm fan on it for the exhaust rad(thinking GTX120 With GT 5400 on fan controller), is that gonna help by much or not since I understand its taking in hot air ,then I would rather stay with quieter setup.

Thanks in advance:D

Edit: I do realized that having 2 separate loops maybe different from having the 2 rads in 1 loop since the temps equalize or something like that?

I may consider crossfire in future so a discussion that considers the thermal load of that would be good smile.gif
Edited by netdevil - 4/30/12 at 10:10pm
TJ07 Incomplete
(14 items)
 
Home Server
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i3 2100 Asus P8H67-M Integrated Graphics G Skill Ripjaw X 1333Mhz 
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TJ07 Incomplete
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Home Server
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i3 2100 Asus P8H67-M Integrated Graphics G Skill Ripjaw X 1333Mhz 
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post #1685 of 7165
Mine should arrive between 09:06 and 10:06. thumb.gif
post #1686 of 7165
Quote:
Originally Posted by lightsout View Post

I'm thinking ghetto style. Like suspended from the 5.25 bays with zip ties. I already have the 180 as exhaust so it would blow straight into the fan and out.

i don't recommend making the 180mm an exhaust. that would put your system into negative pressure mode and invite tons of dust everywhere to migrate into your system and complicate an already difficult thermal solution.

what you have to keep in mind is WHERE the heat goes after you transport it around in the water loop. heat does not magically disappear, it has to go somewhere. ideally you want the heat to be dissipated via the radiator to an external environment (hence the suggestion of cutting a hole on the roof of the 5.25 bays) if the heat remains inside the case, then you are simply moving the heat around and not alot of "cooling" is actually done. the heat will effectively be raising the ambient temp inside the case and cause problems with other heat producing components such as PSU, RAM, northbridge, HDD, etc..

baddad62 has an elegant (if abit extreme) solution by moving the entire cooling engine (radiator/fan assembly) outside the case as seen here
450
however, his mod actually requires the minimal amount of cutting and modding. he simply made his case "bigger" by extending his thermal solution beyond the physical confines of the case. essentially he's exploiting the primary feature of liquid cooling to it's fullest extent. he recognize the fact that liquid allows him to transport the heat elsewhere, and, he's transporting the heat to a location that can do no possible harm to his system (outside the case) and as far away from the cool air intake of the case as possible to avoid cool air contamination by hot exhaust.

for a 240rad that's about the best solution you can have. the other solution involve removing the HDD cage and actually mounting the rad side ways on the side panel.... would be a pain in the arse every time he has to open the side panel. for 2 x 120 rads, the best solution would be the bigger rad on the rear exhaust port and cutting the hole on the roof of the 5.25 bay for the smaller rad. no hot air remains inside the case and all other components stay cool while retaining the 180mm fan as intake for crucial cooling of your RAID.
post #1687 of 7165
Building it up :3
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post #1688 of 7165
Quote:
Originally Posted by 66racer View Post

The cpu fan error means when the bios checked the fans they were too low. If you know for a fact that its fine just disable it in the bios. I turned my warning off. I would get that sometimes but I have an antec kuhler 920.

Thanks:) Do you know where in bios I turn it off?
post #1689 of 7165
Quote:
Originally Posted by netdevil View Post

Excellent explanation! thumb.gif Now that got me thinking, I am running a 180mm magicool rad(stock fan) and intend to have a XSPC EX120 rad(GT 1850) on the rear exhaust. So technically, after the heat transfers to air from the 180mm rad, it now goes to the 120mm rad. My 120mm rad gets hot air so is it any useful at all(even a little). I am intending to cool a i5 2500K and a GTX680/7970(pending) and I know its been asked alot in this thread if 180+120mm is enough for cooling these 2 components. Also, by having push pull on the 120mm rad, would it help much since more hot air is exhausted out faster.
Another solution is having a high fpi rad with a high rpm fan on it for the exhaust rad(thinking GTX120 With GT 5400 on fan controller), is that gonna help by much or not since I understand its taking in hot air ,then I would rather stay with quieter setup.
Thanks in advance:D
Edit: I do realized that having 2 separate loops maybe different from having the 2 rads in 1 loop since the temps equalize or something like that?
I may consider crossfire in future so a discussion that considers the thermal load of that would be good smile.gif

this is going to sound alittle strange, but whether 180 + 120 rad is "sufficient" cooling for a 680/7970 + 2500k is ENTIRELY up to you smile.gif what this means is what kind of temps are you looking for? if you are reasonable in your expectations of what the load temps are? as far as hardware tolerances, it's entirely feasible to cool both JUST on the 180mm rad (all of the components in question have very high tolerance for heat)... but most people tend to go nuts having unreasonable expectations of having their hardware operating at ambient temp under full synthetic load biggrin.gif

the easiest way i can explain this is for you to make an mental calculation of the TOTAL surface area of all the air coolers you've taken off your components(add up the size of each fin of the cooler) and compare it to the total surface area of the radiator (again add up the size of each fin in the rad) and see which one is bigger. if the surface area of the air coolers is bigger then the surface area of the rad, then you would have gotten better temps staying with air cooler. (remember liquid is simply there to TRANSPORT heat. the rad and fan are still the cooling engine in the equation) it's true in the actual results of testing, the liquid solution would have a slight advantage due to other factors, but it's not enough to be worried about here.

while generally speaking it's better to have more surface area (2 rads) under ideal conditions.... but the conditions aren't exactly ideal since the smaller rad would be taking a penalty in having "dirty air" (pre heated by the 180mm rad) as an intake source. given this dilemma, you have 1 of several options.
1. go ahead with the 2nd rad and boost the overall surface area (will still help since the entirety of the heat dumped into the case by the 180mm rad is not fed exclusively to the 120 rad. (this situation is different from what lightsout suggested earlier. his situation has the exhaust fan of 1 rad acting as the intake fan of the 2nd rad. thereby feeding the entirety of the thermal load onto the 2nd rad. ) your situation is different because there is "leakage" in the overall airflow pattern. not all of the heat is dumped onto the 2nd rad. some of that will be absorbed by the skin(side panel) of the case and dissipated through convection. some of the heat will simply leak out from the holes in the back of the case and some through the PSU openings.

2. go with push/pull on the 180 rad and see how the temps go. a 180 rad has roughly the same surface area as a 240 rad due to its shape. if you do not expect unreasonably low load temps, the single 180 rad can handle that load in a push/pull configuration.

3. make the 120mm rad an intake port also (after you put a fan filter on the 120mm intake fan) this "should" provide you with the best temp numbers, however you are dumping all 290w of thermal load inside the case and onto the RAM, northbridge, HDD, etc... tho this is not as bad as you might think if you do it properly. I would STRONGLY recommend that you remove the top faceplate of the 5.25 bay so all this hot air has a nice big opening to escape from smile.gif (assuming you are only using a single bay pump/res instead of a dual bay pump/res) if both bays are used by pump/res, then you may have to do some cutting since you want to have a pretty decent sized hole for all that hot air to escape from.

4. go absolutely nuts and have push/pull on both rads pumping heat into the case biggrin.gif this is where you've decided to go SLi/Xfire and need to have the best heat dissipation possible. damn the HDD/RAM/northbridge/PSU, i want to play my BF3 on a 120hz 3D monitor biggrin.gif
post #1690 of 7165
Is the backplate screws on the H60 supposed to be slightly wobbly?

Im guessing not otherwise it would not be on properly when i fit it right?

/E apparently its normal, Just mounted mine, Seems fine but i cant help but think i have TP all over my CPU bracket as there seems a lot on the h60 :/
Edited by MaxFTW - 5/1/12 at 2:38am
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Splash of blue
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Crucial BX100 1TB Prolimatech Megahalems Blue Windows 8.1 FTW Edition Asus PG348Q 
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