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Help with subwoofer design!

post #1 of 23
Thread Starter 
Alright guys, so check it out. I've got a pair of Pioneer CS-405 towers from 1984. They're amazing, I love them to death. I need a subwoofer with them though. I also need to get the towers up higher to match with my TV better.

So I figure why not build a subwoofer to sit under them? Then I thought, why not build the subwoofer enclosure up, and around my towers...so they just slide in from the back?

Thus, my idea was born!

Now, I'm debating on picking up a pair of TC Sounds Epic 12's. Problem being, I'd have to run my amp at 4ohms per sub, which would give me roughly 250-275w RMS of power to work with per sub. These subs want 500w RMS each. The subwoofer box will be built to spec, to give a clean flat sound out of them (down to 24Hz).

Just not entirely sure if those drivers are right for my use though, as I'd only be giving them half power. I've got 135w RMS @ 8ohm, 275w RMS @ 4ohm, and 350w RMS @ 2ohm to work with (per sub). Amp is NOT bridgeable.

Also, whatever drivers I DO end up picking up, need to match visually and be nice. My speakers are all black drivers with a silver mounting ring and brackets holding it in place, and a black front.

Here's a rough sketchup of my idea. Just not entirely sure what drivers to use....
attachment.php?attachmentid=220219&d=1310976092

Any opinions or ideas are more than welcome. smile.gif
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post #2 of 23
If you ask me I like my boxes sealed, I know they are not as efficient as ported boxes, but the bass is pretty tight in a sealed one, rather than the open coughing of the ported one..

Now other suggestion I would give you is better change the driver or increase the height or depth of the box to make room for atleast 3 ft^3.. If you want a sealed box...

Other than that even half power is okay, If you are not going to listen at those very high volumes.If you still think powering it at half power is for sissies, change to a better one, there are far better subs than these, just put up a list of the subs you like and I am sure people might even poll for them biggrin.gif
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post #3 of 23
I'd have a small cutout somewhere, having a sealed box is no good with a subwoofer, it dampens the Bass, and how is the feedback air going to escape if the box is sealed? it could damage the speaker or the crack the box if it's cranked up too loud.
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post #4 of 23
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by dragonxwas;14254625 
If you ask me I like my boxes sealed, I know they are not as efficient as ported boxes, but the bass is pretty tight in a sealed one, rather than the open coughing of the ported one..

Now other suggestion I would give you is better change the driver or increase the height or depth of the box to make room for atleast 3 ft^3.. If you want a sealed box...

Other than that even half power is okay, If you are not going to listen at those very high volumes.If you still think powering it at half power is for sissies, change to a better one, there are far better subs than these, just put up a list of the subs you like and I am sure people might even poll for them biggrin.gif

Reason I'm going ported is for a REALLY low tune. My low pass is set at 40Hz. My towers easily pick up to 40Hz, I just need the subs to hit below that.

And 3 cuft for sealed on a 12"? Seriously? I've NEVER used a box that large, even in a car ported. eek.gif

Right now I'm running cheapo 400w Kenwood 12's in 1.25 cuft each ported at 30Hz. They sound okay, but too boomy being that the box is too small. I'm also pushing them right to their limits too, as they only handle about 250w RMS each honestly (before they heat up).

I'm using software to design the enclosure for the subs. I'm shooting for a flat response between 24-40Hz (with the TC Sounds drivers). I just guesstimated 2.50 cuft ported, as that's what most 12's want ported that low.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Atomfix;14254632 
I'd have a small cutout somewhere, having a sealed box is no good with a subwoofer, it dampens the Bass, and how is the feedback air going to escape if the box is sealed? it could damage the speaker or the crack the box if it's cranked up too loud.

Actually that's not entirely true. A lot of drivers will actually sound cleaner sealed if the port is too high tuned. They also require less air space sealed. That "feedback air" honestly is just pressure inside the enclosure. If you keep that pressure inside, its not going to do anything at all to damage anything. Releasing the pressure though, can enable much lower frequencies.
Edited by pioneerisloud - 7/18/11 at 1:16am
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post #5 of 23
Thread Starter 
Just so you guys can get a LITTLE better understanding of what I'm thinking about doing.....

Another thought was to build seperate enclosures for the subs (slot ported, large box, low tune). And instead of building the tower enclosures on the sub box, build a shelf type thing that holds the sub AND the tower together. This way I can use them independantly or together.

Now my entire question is simple. Which sub would LOOK better paired with my towers (looking at the DRIVER only)? I plan to make custom rings and mounts that match the towers exactly.

Here's a picture of my exact towers (that's actually my image):
217401d1309286374-ocn-speaker-club-100_2555.jpg

Here's the TC Sounds Epic 12 I'm thinking about:
7.JPG

And here's an RE SRX 12 that I am also debating on now:
AUD-RE-SRX12D2.jpg
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post #6 of 23
Ask at the DIY subforums at avsforum, audioholics, and hometheatershack. There are free programs out there to help model and design your project.
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post #7 of 23
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by gorb;14256364 
Ask at the DIY subforums at avsforum, audioholics, and hometheatershack. There are free programs out there to help model and design your project.

Oh, I've got the box design part down actually.

And honestly, I think I'm going to redo my idea. It was going to get really costly really quickly.

I think I'm going to grab a TC Sounds Epic 12 and a Dayton 500w plate amp, put it in the right box, ported at 20-25Hz or so, and call it a day.
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post #8 of 23
Why go through all that just buy speaker stands and a sub, your done? it would look nicer sound better than a cop job build. the speakers you got just play loud theres no sound quaility so dont spend a lot on your idea. on the subs if you build it go with a port, i like the sealed box better but you need a lot more power to drive them. on the box size and port size that all depends on the drive you buy. the speakers you got i dont think you really need a sub if there 12".
Edited by valtopps - 7/20/11 at 8:27am
post #9 of 23
Ever think about a 4th order?
00mgm-dimensions-cutsheet.jpg

how bout a T-line?
2xe3.jpg

If you want help with a design, lemme know. It's kinda what I do wink.gif
post #10 of 23
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by valtopps;14281428 
Why go through all that just buy speaker stands and a sub, your done? it would look nicer sound better than a cop job build. the speakers you got just play loud theres no sound quaility so dont spend a lot on your idea. on the subs if you build it go with a port, i like the sealed box better but you need a lot more power to drive them. on the box size and port size that all depends on the drive you buy. the speakers you got i dont think you really need a sub if there 12".

My speakers are 12", yes. They only extend down to 40Hz or so (60Hz successfully). So I do need a sub.

And who says they don't sound good? These are still some of the better cleaner speakers I've ever owned personally.
Quote:
Originally Posted by sanitarium;14284393 
Ever think about a 4th order?
-snip-

how bout a T-line?
-snip-

If you want help with a design, lemme know. It's kinda what I do wink.gif

I have thought about a T-Line, but decided ported would be a lot easier to design.

I've also decided to just go with one TC Sounds Epic 12, ported low, and I'm just going to build some custom stands for the towers and surrounds. smile.gif
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