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post #51 of 68
Quote:
Originally Posted by HybridCore View Post
I just found out about the Kinzuadder ( I feel like an idiot) and was wondering if the internal layout of the G400 and Deathadder were the same so I can put the G400 PCB into the Kinzu. Although I'm not happy about not being able to disable the prediction in the G400, the scroll wheel mechanism seems to be considered one of the better mechanisms.

I also heard that the Kinzu's mouse shell seems to be considered legendary due to the shape along with the teflon mouse feet.
I had just gotten a Kinzu earlier this week along with a Deathadder Black edition 2 days ago. The Kinzu is way to small for me (7" from middle finger tip to base of palm) with the way I hold mice (kind of a palm/finger tip grip), but the Deathadder is wonderful. I came from a G500 and definitely prefer the Deathadder. Everything just feels better about it, the only issue was the LOD. It seems rather high but I put a little piece of scotch tape over the sensor and its perfect now. I really like the option for on the fly sensitivity where you can hold a button and move the scroll wheel to change your sensitivity. I just wish I would have gotten one of these a long time ago.
 
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post #52 of 68
Thread Starter 
Well, I use fingertip and some palm but merely since I always end up using fingertip again so the Kinzu's size shouldn't be that much of a problem.
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post #53 of 68
naos 3200/5000

big ass mouse
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post #54 of 68
Thread Starter 
It would be neat if I could put a deathadder pcb into the Naos. I'm just worried about the acceleration.
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post #55 of 68
Quote:
Originally Posted by HybridCore View Post
It would be neat if I could put a deathadder pcb into the Naos. I'm just worried about the acceleration.
It's possible to put the Deathadder pcb into the Naos, I've done it and it works well. Acceleration is a non-issue, just as it is with the normal Deathadder. At the same time, I obviously fixed the Deathadder's dragging belly. The Naos is a much better shape for me! The Deathadder performed great, but gave me cramps in the back of my hand, it was just too tall and narrow, even though I have fairly large hands. The only downer on this mod (besides sacrificing two excellent mice to make one nearly perfect mouse) is that my Naos-Adder inherited the Deathadder's annoying scroll wheel bug, where about 1 time in 10, it might scroll in the opposite direction of how I rolled it.
    
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post #56 of 68
Thread Starter 
Ah, how about the G400 PCB? I'm interested to see how it is. I saw it on another site where they were comparing the internals of the G400 to the Deathadder.
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post #57 of 68
Quote:
Originally Posted by HybridCore View Post
Ah, how about the G400 PCB? I'm interested to see how it is. I saw it on another site where they were comparing the internals of the G400 to the Deathadder.
Are you talking about putting a G400 PCB into a Naos shell? I'm not sure if it will fit, and I've heard it can be difficult to get the Logitech scroll wheels to work with others' electronics, and vice-versa. I haven't actually tried it, it might take some reverse-engineering to figure out how to get it to work, but it's almost certainly possible. The G400 has some prediction though, so you might as well just get a Naos 3200 and use it stock, assuming prediction doesn't bother you. Frankenmousing is a lot of fun and can be rewarding, but it's an expensive and time-consuming way to try and make the perfect mouse (or at least gain some incremental benefit), and may entail some compromises along the way, planned or unplanned, plus the risk of ruining one or both mice, if it goes wrong. You'll definitely void all warranties. In other words, it's not always worth the trouble. Also, just like with modding cars, make sure you have a "daily driver" that works, to fall back on if needed. It's no fun sitting on the sidelines, when your stuff isn't working.
    
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post #58 of 68
Thread Starter 
I heard the type of scroll wheel on it is considered the better type of mechanism. I'm also worried about the DA's double click and scroll problem.
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post #59 of 68
Quote:
Originally Posted by HybridCore View Post
I heard the type of scroll wheel on it is considered the better type of mechanism. I'm also worried about the DA's double click and scroll problem.
The scroll wheel mechanism is a preference, as far as the feel goes; some like firm detents, some like light detents, some like smooth scrolling, some like free-scrolling/spinning (a number of Logitechs feature this). It's hard to argue about this aspect, it's basically different strokes for different folks. What's not arguable, is how a scroll wheel technically performs. If I roll the scroll wheel in a certain direction, that is the only direction it should respond to. Most mice use mechanical rotary switches a.k.a. encoders, that make and break two contacts, creating two signals which are offset in phase, to give the MCU in the mouse a way to differentiate which direction is being scrolled. The problem with these rotary switches, is that they become intermittent over time, due to mechanical wear. When the signals become intermittent, you get intermittent, essentially false, pulses going to the MCU and possibly causing it to count up or down, when it shouldn't. The problem generally only gets worse over time, though using contact cleaner may help. Some mice use optical encoders, Logitech does on most of their mice, and Microsoft does (or at least did) on some of theirs, especially their older ones, CM does on the Spawn. I am sure there are others. An optical encoder works the same way, except it uses a light beam (or pair of light beams, usually LED-sourced) going through a rotating disc with "window" slits in it, built in or connected to the scroll wheel, to a pair of phototransistor receivers to detect the scrolling motion and create the signal pulses. This switching happens electronically, and so is not subject to wear like with mechanical rotary switches. The one saving grace of mechanical rotary switches is that they are cheap and simple. The MCU of the mouse can filter the scroll wheel signals to some extent, to try to reject some of the intermittent signals, but it's more of a crutch used to hide a shortcoming, and not a clean technical solution; an optical encoder is technically better and more reliable in use.

Regarding the DA's supposed double-click problem, that's usually a sign of wear, after long use, or possibly being raged at and abused by the user. The microswitches just wear and eventually become intermittent, leading to false signals, that may be interpreted as clicks (or double clicks). This is not a problem unique to the Deathadder by any means, pretty much any/every mouse on the market can suffer from this. IMO, Omron makes by far the best microswitches on the market, and they generally last a long time. Razer, Logitech, CM, Mionix and many many others are using Omron microswitches for the main buttons, though they might use cheaper alternatives on the less-used buttons. If you get the double-click problem, the easiest thing to do is to get replacement switches; I get the Omron D2FC-F-7N switches for like $2 each on eBay. A few minutes with a soldering iron, and possibly some new mousefeet, and you can be back in business with a like-new mouse. If you're going to the trouble to replace microswitches, do yourself a favor and get Omron switches, even (or especially) if that isn't what was originally installed; IMO, the microswitches from TTC, OTM, and various other no-names just don't hold up as well.
    
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post #60 of 68
Thread Starter 
Great. Now I just really wish you could build your own mouse instead of frankenmousing some brand new mice. Anyways, I will refer to this. I'm going to need to look for some stores to try mice when I return to the states. I know I can try the DeathAdder at the local Best Buy. Are there any stores in Connecticut that have Steelseries mice and such?
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