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Forget the first step? And rust in the rads already?

post #1 of 15
Thread Starter 
I got the first 3 shipments of my WC setup already, the other 2 should be here by 3pm or so.

Im wondering if I should just skip the first step and install it directly in the case. I know everything I have read and every video I have seen says hook the loop up outside the case and run it for 24 hours, but is it a must? How often do parts come from the factory leaking? And if I do hook it up, does it relly need to be 24 hours?

By the way, both rads have what look to be rust inside them and on the threads. Is this normal? How do I ghet rid of it?
post #2 of 15
I always set up the loop inside the case and then leak test with a PSU outside of the case and no power to the hardware. If you set up your loop out side you could very well cause somethign to leak when you move it inside causing you to need to leak test twice. Why not just do it once? If you do have a leak it is extremely unlikely it will hurt any hardware that is not powered and mean extreme in the most extreme sense. Just be sure it is good and dry before you power it on.

It is normal to need to flush brand new water cooling gear as there is ussually some junk in them, but the rust you see is probably just the brass/copper color of the radiators.
Edited by Vagrant Storm - 7/19/11 at 9:28am
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post #3 of 15
Yes go for it *sarcastic voice* - no, running any type of liquid in your case without testing it isn't all that brilliant - its not only for factory leaking parts, but to make sure that you know how the fittings work, that everything works correctly - it only takes one leak to wreck everything for you
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post #4 of 15
Cleaning the rads out is a very smart thing to do before installation, there usually is solder left over inside it, I don't watercool so I don't have any experience in cleaning a rad, but just from what OCN does I would rinse it with distilled water until the rad stops expelling it's "gunk".
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post #5 of 15
Jumper trick on your psu and leak test inside the case. Flush your rad with boiling water.
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post #6 of 15
Quote:
Originally Posted by holton0289 View Post
I got the first 3 shipments of my WC setup already, the other 2 should be here by 3pm or so.

Im wondering if I should just skip the first step and install it directly in the case. I know everything I have read and every video I have seen says hook the loop up outside the case and run it for 24 hours, but is it a must? How often do parts come from the factory leaking? And if I do hook it up, does it relly need to be 24 hours?

By the way, both rads have what look to be rust inside them and on the threads. Is this normal? How do I ghet rid of it?
Whether you should conduct a leak test outside of your case depends on the level of risk with which you are comfortable. If you NEED 100% uptime on your computer and/or can't afford to replace parts, I'd say it's well worth it to leak test before installing it in your case.

I had a CPU block once that came from the factory with a broken gasket and it leaked all over my GPU and PSU. Luckily, I caught it early on, shut everything down, and everything worked ok after I dried it off. But, it did give me quite the scare.
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post #7 of 15
Quote:
Originally Posted by dkim1359 View Post
Whether you should conduct a leak test outside of your case depends on the level of risk with which you are comfortable. If you NEED 100% uptime on your computer and/or can't afford to replace parts, I'd say it's well worth it to leak test before installing it in your case.

I had a CPU block once that came from the factory with a broken gasket and it leaked all over my GPU and PSU. Luckily, I caught it early on, shut everything down, and everything worked ok after I dried it off. But, it did give me quite the scare.
He is talking about assembling his loop out side his case and leak testing and then moving it inside his case and leak testing again. Just set it up inside and leak test once with a hotwired powersupply out side of the case and far from any potentially spilled or leaked water.
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post #8 of 15
Flush the rads first.Personally I do it with warm tap water until it flows clean from both sides.Then flush the tap water out with distilled water.This way you use less distilled water.Install as little of your hardware as possible/anything that won't disturb your loop while installing.Jump the psu and run a leak check.I usually bleed and leak check for about 20 mins.Keep paper towels or regular towels handy for the leaks.I might not be the best example to follow but I have put together a few loops.
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post #9 of 15
Thread Starter 
Thats why I was wanting to know. I terminate fiber optics for work. If we ever have to pull a strand out because it failed we have to retest everything in that fiber box. I agree, what doesnt leak outside the case doesnt mean it wont when you put it in.

I also agree its a good idea to test the loop outside the case. I dont want my cpu or gpus, or anything for that matter, getting wet. I will probably install the loop inside the case with all the hardware, take the psu out and just use the adapterI have.

Ill be honest, I probably wont run it for 24 hours. Ill give it untill the end of work tomorrow.

Boiling water? I will try that. Should I boil distilled water or tap water?

Hey got another question. How high should I turn the pumps throttle up? All the way on both of them?
post #10 of 15
You really shouldn't use tap water...it has all sorts of junk in it.

I start out low while bleeding the air out and then ramp up the pumps. You want the loop under full preasure for leak testing
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