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Fir3Chi3f's New Indepth Capacitor Replacement/Monitor Repair Tutorial - Page 6

post #51 of 87
Just registered to say thanks for putting this thread together.
I have 3x 226BW's which I've been replacing caps every couple years since I bought them in 2007.

I will look the capacitors listed here and hopefully they will last a bit longer as it feels like I'm replacing them often (could be cause there's 3x and I don't do them all at once so it feels like 1x is always failing tongue.gif).

Can someone explain in layman's terms why you ditched the solid caps from the guide?
I see ones like below and think 5,000 hours rating beats 3,000 hours rating...
http://www.su-scon.com.tw/en/product/Super-low-ESRHigh-ripplie-current-capability-Rated-voltage-416V.-Endurance5000-hours-at-105/EL.html
post #52 of 87
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by pcdau View Post

Just registered to say thanks for putting this thread together.
I have 3x 226BW's which I've been replacing caps every couple years since I bought them in 2007.

I will look the capacitors listed here and hopefully they will last a bit longer as it feels like I'm replacing them often (could be cause there's 3x and I don't do them all at once so it feels like 1x is always failing tongue.gif).

Can someone explain in layman's terms why you ditched the solid caps from the guide?
I see ones like below and think 5,000 hours rating beats 3,000 hours rating...
http://www.su-scon.com.tw/en/product/Super-low-ESRHigh-ripplie-current-capability-Rated-voltage-416V.-Endurance5000-hours-at-105/EL.html

In lamens terms, you can use the solid capacitors (At your own risk). tongue.gif

The monitor I used them in is still working great, I just can't recommend them as they aren't generally within spec of the data sheets for the old components. redface.gif
Edited by Fir3Chi3f - 1/23/14 at 9:04am
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post #53 of 87
Thanks for the guide, I'm currently in the process of replacing the bad caps on my 6 year old samsung 931BW. A few months ago I had a problem where it would take ages to switch on, and now it pretty much can't anymore.



My question is that is it really OK to disregard the farad and voltage ratings, and just go by the ripple and ESR?
post #54 of 87
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by ALLgrey View Post

Thanks for the guide, I'm currently in the process of replacing the bad caps on my 6 year old samsung 931BW. A few months ago I had a problem where it would take ages to switch on, and now it pretty much can't anymore.



My question is that is it really OK to disregard the farad and voltage ratings, and just go by the ripple and ESR?

I would recommend staying above a 12v rating as I've yet to test a capacitor below that in a monitor.

Otherwise yes. Higher quality caps usually will have better ESR at lower values then the cheap caps that come in many monitors. thumb.gif
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post #55 of 87
Got it, thanks for the quick reply
post #56 of 87
I actually have another question. Besides the capxon GL series, my monitor also had capxon KM series capacitors. Thing is, in the spreadsheets I find about the KM series like this, they don't mention the ESR/Impedance rating. So, can I just match the ripple rating?
post #57 of 87
Thread Starter 
The ratings have the tendency to correlate a bit. So, it should work just fine. The power supply boards in monitors aren't usually particularly picky about the caps you put into them. Getting exact ESR ratings is the technically correct repair, but anything remotely close to spec should work. biggrin.gif

(Don't quote me on that if it doesn't work though rolleyes.gif )
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post #58 of 87
So, I've replaced the capacitors and everything and turned on the monitor. At first everything worked fine, but then the screen started flashing on and off slowly before finally switching off by itself. I opened it up again and found that one of the cables that attached to the power supply board was loose, and I also found this



if that means anything at all. So, I tightened it in its socket and tried to switch the monitor on again. It worked, but then the same thing happened except this time it skipped flashing slowly and just plain switched off frown.gif

Any advice?
post #59 of 87
Thread Starter 
Looks like a bit of solder splatter. You can clean it up with a solder wick or sucker.

It doesn't really look like it's compromised anything, but always good to clean things up. Can I ask what caps you used in place of the dead ones? Did you replace all the caps or just the ones that blew?
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post #60 of 87
Are you sure? Maybe it doesn't show up in the picture but the upper layer of the pcb was lifted up/ripped off slightly where that black strip is.

Anyway, I replaced all the caps. For the GL series where I could get the ripple and esr specs, here are my replacements:

820uF, 25V, 1280 ripple, 0.052 ESR to Rubycon ZL 680uF, 16V, 1430 ripple, 0.038 ESR (I was actually aiming for the 8x20 size one which has more similar specs, but inadvertently ordered this one)
1000uF, 10V, 1010 ripple, 0.072 ESR to Rubycon ZL 470uF, 16V, 1030 ripple, 0.053 ESR

For the KM series, I kind of just replaced the caps with whatever was available with the same voltage and farad specs

330uF, 10V to http://my.element14.com/jsp/search/productdetail.jsp?SKU=1831266
1uF, 50V to http://my.element14.com/jsp/search/productdetail.jsp?SKU=9692886
47uF, 50V to http://my.element14.com/jsp/search/productdetail.jsp?SKU=1144633

The KM caps that were in there actually look fine. There's no swelling at the top, or bottom for that matter.
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