Overclock.net › Forums › Cooling › Water Cooling › H100 and Antec 1200 case
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:

H100 and Antec 1200 case - Page 9

post #81 of 85
I stuck my H100 on the back and it is held in place by two screws from the outside. The bottom holes of the top fan now line up with the top holes of the bottom fan.

However, because of this, the top x1 and x16 PCIe slots are both blocked. See pic. It is clean and no modding required, but does eliminate top two PCI-e slot. mad.gif

IMG_6159.JPG 4088k .JPG file
Edited by ZDarryl - 1/10/13 at 1:47pm
    
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
i7-3770K $229 4.221 GHz (42x100.5=4.221GHz) MSI Z77 MPOWER $144 Powercolor Radeon HD 7870 PCS+ MYST 2GB $240 G.SKILL Ripjaws X Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) 240-Pin... 
Hard DriveOptical DriveCoolingOS
SanDisk Extreme SSD 240 GB SATA 6.0 Gb-s 2.5-In... Sony NEC DVD-RW Corsair H100 Push Pull $90 Windows 7 Home Premium 
MonitorKeyboardPowerCase
23.6" ASUS VH236H Monitor Logitech G15 Corsair HX750 Modular PSU ANTEC 1200 
Mouse
Logitech MX Revolution 
  hide details  
Reply
    
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
i7-3770K $229 4.221 GHz (42x100.5=4.221GHz) MSI Z77 MPOWER $144 Powercolor Radeon HD 7870 PCS+ MYST 2GB $240 G.SKILL Ripjaws X Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) 240-Pin... 
Hard DriveOptical DriveCoolingOS
SanDisk Extreme SSD 240 GB SATA 6.0 Gb-s 2.5-In... Sony NEC DVD-RW Corsair H100 Push Pull $90 Windows 7 Home Premium 
MonitorKeyboardPowerCase
23.6" ASUS VH236H Monitor Logitech G15 Corsair HX750 Modular PSU ANTEC 1200 
Mouse
Logitech MX Revolution 
  hide details  
Reply
post #82 of 85
Hey guys I've stumbled on this thread somehow rolleyes.gif
I had to modify my 1200 case as well to fit in my Kuhler 920, I know I know its not H100:p. But I think my the modification would work very well for those who stick the H100 on the back. All you need is a nibbler and like 20 mins of your time. I believe the cap on the radiator should be the same dimension for both H100 and Kuhler 920.
Here's what I did.

Sorry for the one piece to already be cut off. Started to work on it and then thought maybe this will be useful to somebody else.







The rad comes up just the right amount of space to allow the Big Boy to still be installed with maybe like 1-2mm to spare.

There will be a little gap developed between the side panel and the top. Its because the plastic pin and the screw that secures the top to the case can no longer be used as the rad just occupied their space. Everything else goes back to its original spots. Its a minor gap in my eyes that only you will know its there

How it looks with the rad installed

How it originally looked like.

No rattling, no nothing occurs with the Big Boy.
post #83 of 85
Quote:
Originally Posted by skyn3t View Post

here is what you need, you must measure right and cut once smile.gif
if you have the DVD on top on your case low down one bay and if need remove the top fan in the back of you case and measure. you just need to some time , lay off your pc for 2 days and do the work.
PS: don't do like my friend of mine, he did the some cu out and drilled some holes with everything inside so you have idea what happen next after he Powered he RIG. kaboom:eek:

Hello Skyn3t,

I'm looking to put an Antec 1220 in the top of my Antec 1200 and wondered which drill bills you'd used please?

Another chap who cut out the bottom of the case said he'd used 4 drill bits in total and only managed to get one hole drilled! He said I'd need to get special steel proof parts but I'm struggling to find ones small enough.

Was the top difficult to get through and can anyone offer advice please?
post #84 of 85
Hi.
Back in April, I've installed a Thermaltake Water 2.0 Extreme in my 1200, it has a 240mm radiator like the H100(i) and similar products.
I didn't do photos back then (was lazy and rushed it), but today, while doing maintenance dust cleaning, I did so.
It was this thread that helped me a lot with all the information, guidance and photos, and eventually convinced me to pull this off.
I did actually buy a NZXT Phantom case at that time, but was really disappointed by worse fan / material / cooling quality (still a nice case, used it for my parents rig).
So I'm really glad I stuck with the Twelve Hundred, it's a nice case and it serves me well since 2011.

Now, the abovementioned cooler actually has a rather thicker rad than H100, and yet it fits fine in the case and can't possibly collide with any mobo components like high profile RAM and power phase radiators.

The photo #1 shows a work-in-progress photo from April - the only photo I made back then.
You can see the rad is mounted with tubes towards front of the case, and electric drill was used to drill holes.
My hole locations weren't 100% accurate, so I had to spend some time with needle file to correct that, which turned the holes into ellipses.
Sandpaper was also used, then I re-painted some stripped bits with spray paint.


Photo #2 , made today, shows the holes before mounting the radiator.
You can see, the left ones (rear end) were drilled in the "low rise", how skyn3t has called it.
The two other ones were drilled in the "high rise".
The ground wire was left untouched (well, I suppose it was underneath? so I just re-screwed it on top... don't remember).


Photo #3 shows the screws I used. Rear-end screws were the ones that came with cooler, they're short and they were fastened fully.
The front-end screws were actually basic hexagon screws, like the ones used for PSU /etc, they weren't hardly fastened because that would bend the case.


Photo #4 (sorry, that one is very bad), shows the screw that holds the top lid in place (from inside). There were more of those holding screws (I'm not sure - 2 or 4?), but with installed radiator,
I could only put one of them back in place, the rear-left one.
I also folded the unused (e)sata wire for front panel under the top lid, so that it doesn't mess my cable management under the right side panel. I don't use that esata anyway.


Offtopic: the cooler runs great, I'm happy with it. It's basically Asetek, just like Antec Kuhler H20, and the software is absolutely similar. For me, it just runs in silent mode, never the fans needed to spin up unless I switch to extreme mode manually when I do some video encoding and I wanna lower temps. Running i7 3820 at around 4.3-4.4ghz; when idle, it's usually around 35-37c with auto-downclock (speedstep) active. I'm not a benchy/test guy, I only run video applications and games, but compared to Thermalright Silver Arrow that I had with i7 950, it's really cooler, I don't hit 70c whatever I do anymore.
Twelve Hundred is a great case, great build quality and fans. I just wish they updated it, allowing for native 120/240 radiator support, removing dust filters without having to take side panels of and pulling hdd bays out, and an inverted PSU mount with dust-filtered hole in the bottom to suck air. And of course 2x USB 3.0 instead of one on V3 (esata on V2).



I'd like to thank everyone who participated in this thread, especially those who shared their experience and photos.
Chris13002 (topic starter), estebanrey, skyn3t, and others.


I haven't really posted anything on this forum but for this thread I forced myself to).
Antec 1200
(18 items)
 
NZXT z77
(18 items)
 
 
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
i5 3470 Asus P8Z77-V LX2 Gigabyte GTX560 Windforce 16Gb (4 x 4Gb) Kingmax @1333 stock 
Hard DriveHard DriveHard DriveOptical Drive
Crucial M4 128Gb [OS] 2x Seagate ST31000524AS 1Tb @Raid0 [temp files] Toshiba DT01ACA300 3Tb [data] LITE-ON DVD-RW IHAS524-T32/-T07 
CoolingOSMonitorPower
Thermalright Silver Arrow Windows 8.1 x64 Pro Acer GD245HQ Chieftec CFT-750-14CS 750W 
CaseOther
NZXT Phantom USB3.0 a no-name chinese 5.25" front panel card reader... 
  hide details  
Reply
Antec 1200
(18 items)
 
NZXT z77
(18 items)
 
 
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
i5 3470 Asus P8Z77-V LX2 Gigabyte GTX560 Windforce 16Gb (4 x 4Gb) Kingmax @1333 stock 
Hard DriveHard DriveHard DriveOptical Drive
Crucial M4 128Gb [OS] 2x Seagate ST31000524AS 1Tb @Raid0 [temp files] Toshiba DT01ACA300 3Tb [data] LITE-ON DVD-RW IHAS524-T32/-T07 
CoolingOSMonitorPower
Thermalright Silver Arrow Windows 8.1 x64 Pro Acer GD245HQ Chieftec CFT-750-14CS 750W 
CaseOther
NZXT Phantom USB3.0 a no-name chinese 5.25" front panel card reader... 
  hide details  
Reply
post #85 of 85
Quote:
Originally Posted by alanfx8150 View Post

Hello Skyn3t,

I'm looking to put an Antec 1220 in the top of my Antec 1200 and wondered which drill bills you'd used please?

Another chap who cut out the bottom of the case said he'd used 4 drill bits in total and only managed to get one hole drilled! He said I'd need to get special steel proof parts but I'm struggling to find ones small enough.

Was the top difficult to get through and can anyone offer advice please?

If you only need to drill holes, any metal drill bit should do.
There are generally 3 types, concrete, metal & wood, the metal type is the middle one in the pic below


It's better to use mains-powered drill, but a good battery drill should also do it.
If you go to a big tools store, usually it's possible to just pick and buy 1 drill bit of particular diameter and type you need without spending money on like a kit of them.
I don't personally think you'll need to go for expensive / hardened ones, the one I used was very basic.

Sry, practically me double-posting here...
Antec 1200
(18 items)
 
NZXT z77
(18 items)
 
 
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
i5 3470 Asus P8Z77-V LX2 Gigabyte GTX560 Windforce 16Gb (4 x 4Gb) Kingmax @1333 stock 
Hard DriveHard DriveHard DriveOptical Drive
Crucial M4 128Gb [OS] 2x Seagate ST31000524AS 1Tb @Raid0 [temp files] Toshiba DT01ACA300 3Tb [data] LITE-ON DVD-RW IHAS524-T32/-T07 
CoolingOSMonitorPower
Thermalright Silver Arrow Windows 8.1 x64 Pro Acer GD245HQ Chieftec CFT-750-14CS 750W 
CaseOther
NZXT Phantom USB3.0 a no-name chinese 5.25" front panel card reader... 
  hide details  
Reply
Antec 1200
(18 items)
 
NZXT z77
(18 items)
 
 
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
i5 3470 Asus P8Z77-V LX2 Gigabyte GTX560 Windforce 16Gb (4 x 4Gb) Kingmax @1333 stock 
Hard DriveHard DriveHard DriveOptical Drive
Crucial M4 128Gb [OS] 2x Seagate ST31000524AS 1Tb @Raid0 [temp files] Toshiba DT01ACA300 3Tb [data] LITE-ON DVD-RW IHAS524-T32/-T07 
CoolingOSMonitorPower
Thermalright Silver Arrow Windows 8.1 x64 Pro Acer GD245HQ Chieftec CFT-750-14CS 750W 
CaseOther
NZXT Phantom USB3.0 a no-name chinese 5.25" front panel card reader... 
  hide details  
Reply
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:
  Return Home
  Back to Forum: Water Cooling
Overclock.net › Forums › Cooling › Water Cooling › H100 and Antec 1200 case