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12v, 0.5amps

post #1 of 8
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That is the exact amount of power I need for a mod I want to do. I'm currently using a XIGMATEK NRP-MC751. Any thoughts? I would like to be able to pull the 12v 0.5a straight from my current power supply, and looking at the spec sheet, there seems to be 2 possibilities to my untrained eyes.

The most obvious one is has an output of -12v and a max/min of 0.8/0a. It' the "-12v" the concerns me, as I have only the faintest idea of what that would mean, and no idea if it would rule it out completely.

The other option is a +3.3v and a max/min 30/0.5a. Again, it's the voltage the concerns me, as I have no idea if it would be possible (feasible) to step it up to 12v.

The final option is +5Vsb, max/min of 3.0/0a. Yet again, voltage issue.

I've included the spec sheet here (about half way down), just in case someone more knowledgeable than myself sees something I don't.

If I can't make my current power supply work - any suggestions on a supplemental? Not some kind of over-kill PSU. Like one that was meant for hobbies - not a full blown computer PSU (if it's avoidable).

Thanks in advance.
 
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post #2 of 8
I'm not sure 100% what you mean but if you need to use +12v and 0.5A you can draw it right off of the +12v rail of the power supply. Looking at your system you have plenty of available power to draw an additional +12v@0.5A right off of the normal +12v rail.
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post #3 of 8
just run it off a 12v. .5A is like the current draw from ur average mid/high speed fan without getting into some crazier stuff. Power supply barely knows its there.
    
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post #4 of 8
The amperage rating of whatever device you are trying to plug in is how much current it requires, if you have more current available than that, then you are fine, however if you had a 12v .1 amp power supply, it would be insufficient.

You could put a diode in the line to make sure that no power surges go through it, which is common practice on unclean power, but PC power supplies are pretty damn clean since 99% of PC parts are extremely sensitive to voltage fluctuations.
    
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post #5 of 8
Just hook it up to a +12V line from your power supply. They're usually the yellow wires. And of course a ground (black).

@Xaero252, diodes actually don't do anything for power surges. They're used to rectify AC (alternating current) to DC (direct current). The diode only allows current to flow in one direction, so when used right it chops off the negative part of the AC waveform. Unfortunately that results in a waveform that fluctuates between 0V and +whatever your AC voltage was. So you can use a bridge rectifier, which is a special arrangement of diodes that results in a smoother current and less wasted power, followed by a filter capacitor to smooth out the voltage.

Of course, OP doesn't need to know any of this since a computer PSU outputs +12VDC*, not 12VAC.

*also +5VDC, +3.3VDC, +5VDC standby (aka +5VSB), and -12VDC
post #6 of 8
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Xaero252 View Post
The amperage rating of whatever device you are trying to plug in is how much current it requires, if you have more current available than that, then you are fine, however if you had a 12v .1 amp power supply, it would be insufficient.

You could put a diode in the line to make sure that no power surges go through it, which is common practice on unclean power, but PC power supplies are pretty damn clean since 99% of PC parts are extremely sensitive to voltage fluctuations.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Phaedrus2129 View Post
Just hook it up to a +12V line from your power supply. They're usually the yellow wires. And of course a ground (black).

@Xaero252, diodes actually don't do anything for power surges. They're used to rectify AC (alternating current) to DC (direct current). The diode only allows current to flow in one direction, so when used right it chops off the negative part of the AC waveform. Unfortunately that results in a waveform that fluctuates between 0V and +whatever your AC voltage was. So you can use a bridge rectifier, which is a special arrangement of diodes that results in a smoother current and less wasted power, followed by a filter capacitor to smooth out the voltage.

Of course, OP doesn't need to know any of this since a computer PSU outputs +12VDC*, not 12VAC.

*also +5VDC, +3.3VDC, +5VDC standby (aka +5VSB), and -12VDC
Thank you very much. I wasn't so much concerned too much about voltage going through, as all the lines except one are 12v. But I was concerned about not having enough amps - and what exactly -12v is?
I don't want to let the cat out of the bag, just yet, but this is going to be an interesting one (hopefully original too), and one that will need all it's required power to perform.
I'm still in the planning stage - but keep a look out for it sometime in December/January.
 
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post #7 of 8
The -12V line is about...-12V. As in, the difference between -12V and ground (0V) is -12V. (You could wire up the part of the device that needs ground to -12V and the part that needs 12V to ground, thus giving the device a 12V difference, but just don't even think about that possibility.) You want to use the normal +12V line from the power supply. The current drawn by the device has nothing to do with the +12V capability of the power supply, so it's fine.

Diodes have plenty more uses than just DC rectification, but yeah, it's not really relevant to the discussion.
post #8 of 8
Quote:
Originally Posted by ZombieEinstein View Post
Thank you very much. I wasn't so much concerned too much about voltage going through, as all the lines except one are 12v. But I was concerned about not having enough amps - and what exactly -12v is?
I don't want to let the cat out of the bag, just yet, but this is going to be an interesting one (hopefully original too), and one that will need all it's required power to perform.
I'm still in the planning stage - but keep a look out for it sometime in December/January.
-12v is somewhat irrelevant today is what I've come to think, as most power supplies only have that rail with very low amperages. If you ignore that and leave it be you will be fine. You will be perfectly fine using 12v@0.5A on only a single yellow wire, the typical 4-pin molex connector can handle 11A of current anyway.
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