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Phaedrus PSU Q&A - August - Page 5

post #41 of 56
When I PSU fails, usually what is the most common component, beside capacitors, to fail? I have a friend's laptop charger that just literally stopped working and wouldn't put out more than 2v (19.5 is what it was suppose to be). Upon opening it I found no dead caps. What gives?
 
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post #42 of 56
Quote:
Originally Posted by BlackVenom View Post
Hi! I have a 700W OCZ ModXStream PSU which has 2 rails at 25a each. I read on here that for my next build (2500k/BD+570) I should be ok... as in overkill with my 700W PSU. However, a couple newegg product specs say the 570 requires 38a and a >550W PSU. Wattage is covered, but amperage.. not so much. Powering the 570 off of one rail would trip the OCP, on a high load, as I understand it. So what do I do to get it powered? Wiring magic or newegg a PSU?

Thanks!!!
The MXS Pro 700w will be fine. OCP trips about 35A and for that matter, those spec's are talking about the total system draw, not just the draw from the GPU.

If you were to pick up a new unit, I would suggest having some coin to drop ($150 or so) so you can get a very efficient, well built, and well performing unit.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Lord Xeb View Post
When I PSU fails, usually what is the most common component, beside capacitors, to fail? I have a friend's laptop charger that just literally stopped working and wouldn't put out more than 2v (19.5 is what it was suppose to be). Upon opening it I found no dead caps. What gives?
You could try to check a solder spot to see if something came loose.

Other than that, check for burned IC's/Transistors inside it (just be weary to check to make sure nothing is still live.)

There's plenty of components that can fail. A primary side failure (transient filter, PFC, etc) will usually be "explosive" and show itself.
A Secondary side failure (where voltage is generated and cleaned up) is usually quiet and has only small signs of damage (like a scortch mark on the PCB.)
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post #43 of 56
On my second job i tend to diagnose and revive very old computers based on PII, PIII, and old Athlons, like the K6's (they either need to run specialized software on older OSes, don't really need to be upgraded, or owners are cheap people).

Some of these PC's have gotten the PSU damaged, and i usually replace them with el cheapo ATX v1.3 PSUs since these are built towards +5w. Still, these are not even quality ATX v1.3 and i've never trusted them.

But if i were to use, say, a CX430v2, which is a ATX v2 PSU, based around the +12v rail, would they be able to feed an old pc like this? Some of these PCs have old SCSI cards, PCI video cards and other older toys, so it's not an "average" PC.
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post #44 of 56
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Starbomba View Post
On my second job i tend to diagnose and revive very old computers based on PII, PIII, and old Athlons, like the K6's (they either need to run specialized software on older OSes, don't really need to be upgraded, or owners are cheap people).

Some of these PC's have gotten the PSU damaged, and i usually replace them with el cheapo ATX v1.3 PSUs since these are built towards +5w. Still, these are not even quality ATX v1.3 and i've never trusted them.

But if i were to use, say, a CX430v2, which is a ATX v2 PSU, based around the +12v rail, would they be able to feed an old pc like this? Some of these PCs have old SCSI cards, PCI video cards and other older toys, so it's not an "average" PC.
They would not, especially PSUs like the CX430v2, which have what's called a "group regulated" design. These PSUs require the amount of +12V and +5V current drawn to stay close to a certain ratio, or the voltages go wonky. So if you draw too much +5V and not enough +12V the voltage will go way out of spec.

For instance, running an old Athlon XP system off the similarly-designed Antec EA430 (from SeaSonic) the +12V ran at 12.64V (out of spec) and the +5V ran at 4.78V (almost out of spec) and the system was unstable.

For ATX units (as opposed to ATX12V/EPS12V) I recommend this unit: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...0w%20atx%201.3 It's a decently built ATNG with adequate performance. It won't be winning any awards, but it's reliable enough.

Additionally, I have a Zippy AP2-5300F-R2 which is among the best ATX PSUs I've come across. I've dismantled the system so the PSU is available for sale if you want it. It's loud, but extremely reliable, so I recommend it for old enterprise systems. These are no longer sold (the last known source, Jameco.com, ran out last year), so me and Tator Tot are your best bet for getting them.
post #45 of 56
Quote:
Originally Posted by Phaedrus2129 View Post
They would not, especially PSUs like the CX430v2, which have what's called a "group regulated" design. These PSUs require the amount of +12V and +5V current drawn to stay close to a certain ratio, or the voltages go wonky. So if you draw too much +5V and not enough +12V the voltage will go way out of spec.

For instance, running an old Athlon XP system off the similarly-designed Antec EA430 (from SeaSonic) the +12V ran at 12.64V (out of spec) and the +5V ran at 4.78V (almost out of spec) and the system was unstable.

For ATX units (as opposed to ATX12V/EPS12V) I recommend this unit: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...0w%20atx%201.3 It's a decently built ATNG with adequate performance. It won't be winning any awards, but it's reliable enough.

Additionally, I have a Zippy AP2-5300F-R2 which is among the best ATX PSUs I've come across. I've dismantled the system so the PSU is available for sale if you want it. It's loud, but extremely reliable, so I recommend it for old enterprise systems. These are no longer sold (the last known source, Jameco.com, ran out last year), so me and Tator Tot are your best bet for getting them.
At the moment i got no need for any PSU (just asking if it happens again, better safe than sorry).

Didn't knew voltages went out of spec (even used my TPN on a PIII system just to see if it worked, was not connected more than 5 minutes tho), thanks for that info (no wonder that even tho it worked the PC was a bit wonky, blamed windows 98, got new PSU, reformatted and is still going strong).

Also, got another question. There are many ways of calculate the max wattage of a PC (to get a PSU near those values to increase efficiency, make sure system will not go boom, and to save money instead of buying a beefier PSU needlessly), but, is there a way of calculating the minimal power consumption of a PC without a kill-a-watt or similar device?
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post #46 of 56
Quote:
Originally Posted by Phaedrus2129 View Post
They would not, especially PSUs like the CX430v2, which have what's called a "group regulated" design. These PSUs require the amount of +12V and +5V current drawn to stay close to a certain ratio, or the voltages go wonky. So if you draw too much +5V and not enough +12V the voltage will go way out of spec.
I see references to "group regulated" and "half-bridge topology" used a lot in reviews and by knowledgeable PSU folks like yourself in describing older (obsolete?) designs used in PSUs, and aside from what is said above about group regulated designs, I don't know much (if anything) about these terms. Could you drop some additional knowledge on me regarding them? Alternately, is there a resource available that might offer some additional insight into these terms in a way that a layperson like myself might understand?
post #47 of 56
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Alecthar View Post
I see references to "group regulated" and "half-bridge topology" used a lot in reviews and by knowledgeable PSU folks like yourself in describing older (obsolete?) designs used in PSUs, and aside from what is said above about group regulated designs, I don't know much (if anything) about these terms. Could you drop some additional knowledge on me regarding them? Alternately, is there a resource available that might offer some additional insight into these terms in a way that a layperson like myself might understand?
Great question, I'll answer that one tonight.
post #48 of 56
What's your opinion regarding my PSU (the Mushkin Enhanced Joule 1000w, not 80+ gold one though). According to a review I'll link at the end, it's simply inefficient but pretty good with some outstanding ripple suppression on the +12v and pretty good stuff on the rest like the voltage regulation. Yet, some people told me it's crap even though it's good in these very important things (voltage regulation or ripple suppression) What's your opinion on it?

http://www.overclockersclub.com/reviews/mush1000w/

Thanks
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post #49 of 56
Quote:
Originally Posted by Snowmen View Post
What's your opinion regarding my PSU (the Mushkin Enhanced Joule 1000w, not 80+ gold one though). According to a review I'll link at the end, it's simply inefficient but pretty good with some outstanding ripple suppression on the +12v and pretty good stuff on the rest like the voltage regulation. Yet, some people told me it's crap even though it's good in these very important things (voltage regulation or ripple suppression) What's your opinion on it?

http://www.overclockersclub.com/reviews/mush1000w/

Thanks
It's a solid Topower design from the PowerBird series.

Really, the only "issue" with it, is that it's inefficient to today's standards.
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post #50 of 56
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tator Tot View Post
It's a solid Topower design from the PowerBird series.

Really, the only "issue" with it, is that it's inefficient to today's standards.
Thank you very much, imaginary rep to you
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