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I just screwed myself didn't I? (changed TIM on XFX 6970) - Page 10

post #91 of 126
Quote:
Originally Posted by djriful View Post
The best thermal grease isn't MX-4 which what I have.

The RARE Shin-Etsu X23-7783D is the best one to get.
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/89..._-_5_Gram.html

I got references from Corsair Hydro series which it has all of them pre-applied.
Liquid Ultra>>>>>>>>>>>>>
    
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post #92 of 126
Liquid Ultra is conductive and it needs to be very specific to use with. It cannot be in contact with any aluminium surfaces... Good cooling but it has disadvantages.

I know it is perfect in my setup AMD CPU Copper Zinc and the H70 is a copper head.
 
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post #93 of 126
Quote:
Originally Posted by djriful View Post
Liquid Ultra is conductive and it needs to be very specific to use with. It cannot be in contact with any aluminium surfaces... Good cooling but it has disadvantages.

I know it is perfect in my setup AMD CPU Copper Zinc and the H70 is a copper head.
No one uses aluminum anymore for coolers, also, been using it for years on many GPUs, never had an issue.
    
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post #94 of 126
CM hyper 212 ring a bell?
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post #95 of 126
From what I saw in your pictures, you put way more TIM than I would use. It's supposed to be a thin layer to fill the gaps between the GPU and the heatsink. The thicker it is, then there will be less heat transferred to the heatsink. I have always spread my TIM just like I do with my CPUs... a thin layer. Never had an issue.

The reason your temps have gone up is because there is too much TIM! The heatsink can't do it's job if you block contact with the GPU with a thick layer of goop!
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post #96 of 126
All right, let me explain to you how to properly apply thermal paste:

1) Remove and clean old paste with isoprop/arcticlean
2) Put a BB sized grain of paste in the centre of the GPU die
3) Clamp the heatsink on, making sure not to lift it off once the paste touches the cooler
4) Run burn tests and game, allowing paste to cure (if necessary)

See here: http://www.overclock.net/graphics-ca...your-gpus.html

For GPU's that are shaped like a rectangle, a line in the centre works better, following the longer edge, but still in the centre. A small line, no longer than 2cm long.

Note: Do not spread the paste, mounting the cooler will do that.
post #97 of 126
Thread Starter 
I've tried putting the paste on with a small dot, big dot, thin lines, thick lines. I even spread it with a credit card once. After spreading it, the temps soared to 100+. When i removed the heatsink, a good half of it hadn't even made contact with the processor. I'm beginning to think the heatsink in this thing isn't even flush with the processor once mounted. I've also taken this thing apart so many times the thermal pads are shot.

I've gotten an RMA number from XFX. Hopefully their recent reputation has been blown out of proportion and they fix it up for me.
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post #98 of 126
Ignore anyone who says to use a dab, dot, grain, pea, or whatever size blob of paste, or any form of pattern of lines.

Every single one of these methods was developed based on the assumption that the part being cooled would have an IHS. They are not remotely ideal for bare dies and will ether result in parts of the chip being uncooled, or will require a huge amount of paste.

There are transistors under the entire die, and the entire surface must be in contact with the base of the heatsink. Exposed corners or air bubbles means that millions of transistors are not cooled at all.

Personally, I spread a thin layer of TIM over the entire die, tint the entire contact area of the heatsink with TIM, then put a small dab in the center of the die. The spread material and the tint will ensure there is paste reaching the corners. The dab in the center will displace any air before it can become trapped.

Also, don't try to salvage badly damaged thermal pads, replace them.

You don't need TIM of exceptional quality, it just needs to be applied well. Conductive or capacitive TIMs should be avoided.

Quote:
Originally Posted by IIVisionII View Post
I've tried putting the paste on with a small dot, big dot, thin lines, thick lines. I even spread it with a credit card once. After spreading it, the temps soared to 100+. When i removed the heatsink, a good half of it hadn't even made contact with the processor. I'm beginning to think the heatsink in this thing isn't even flush with the processor once mounted. I've also taken this thing apart so many times the thermal pads are shot.

I've gotten an RMA number from XFX. Hopefully their recent reputation has been blown out of proportion and they fix it up for me.
The bases of these heatsinks are rarely flat. It's a vapor chamber and not a thick block of metal, it cannot easily be lapped. This is why lots of TIM is used.

Honestly the die probably isn't flat either.

Still, there is nothing wrong with the card they sent you, just a compounding of user error and bad advice. This is a frivolous RMA.
Edited by Blameless - 8/9/11 at 7:38pm
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post #99 of 126
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Blameless View Post
Ignore anyone who says to use a dab, dot, grain, pea, or whatever size blob of paste, or any form of pattern of lines.

Every single one of these methods was developed based on the assumption that the part being cooled would have an IHS. They are not remotely ideal for bare dies and will ether result in parts of the chip being uncooled, or will require a huge amount of paste.

There are transistors under the entire die, and the entire surface must be in contact with the base of the heatsink. Exposed corners or air bubbles means that millions of transistors are not cooled at all.

Personally, I spread a thin layer of TIM over the entire die, tint the entire contact area of the heatsink with TIM, then put a small dab in the center of the die. The spread material and the tint will ensure there is paste reaching the corners. The dab in the center will displace any air before it can become trapped.

Also, don't try to salvage badly damaged thermal pads, replace them.

You don't need TIM of exceptional quality, it just needs to be applied well. Conductive or capacitive TIMs should be avoided.



The bases of these heatsinks are rarely flat. It's a vapor chamber and not a thick block of metal, it cannot easily be lapped. This is why lots of TIM is used.

Honestly the die probably isn't flat either.

Still, there is nothing wrong with the card they sent you, just a compounding of user error and bad advice. This is a frivolous RMA.
Oh well. If it is frivolous it's due to XFX. They told me to change the thermal paste. If you read my post (i know there's a lot of posts), you would see that I tried about half a dozen times, sometimes with a good amount of paste. I have a picture of it somewhere here too. Even they told me the card is running too hot originally and told me to change tim or send it back to be looked at.
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post #100 of 126
OP, you pretty much had normal temps before this whole changing TIM thing.
You should have never changed it!

I don't understand why people continue to change the TIM on GPUs these days (with stock coolers). The difference is negligible or some times it makes it worse.
GPUs can run up to 100c stable!
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