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Project: I have no idea what I'm doing (Custom desk build) - 10/8 Almost done! - Page 9

post #81 of 157
Boring update? Not one bit. Stain looks great. I love the darker colored stains. How big is your desktop going to be?
post #82 of 157
I need to start a project like this.

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post #83 of 157
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by chinesethunda View Post
good update, also lol'd at home depot

anyways you could get some soft lighting CCFLs but idk where you would get them. on the other hand, you could get regular white CCFLs and just wrap them in paper or the thin soft styrofoam wrapping to soften it out? since it will be under the desk anyways i don't think anyone would be able to see it
That's actually a rather ingenious idea. If I can't find any dim or low-light .. lighting, I will probably end up going that route.


Quote:
Originally Posted by animal0307 View Post
Boring update? Not one bit. Stain looks great. I love the darker colored stains. How big is your desktop going to be?
Thanks, I do too. Plus dark stain is awesome for the not-so-great quality of veneer found on Home Depot plywood to hide imperfections a bit. The desktop is 7' x 30".
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post #84 of 157
thanks, have you finished the keyboard tray yet? I can't wait to see how that turns out
   
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post #85 of 157
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chinesethunda View Post
thanks, have you finished the keyboard tray yet? I can't wait to see how that turns out
While the bulk of the tray is finished, there's loose ends that need tying up. In the process of JB-welding the tray slides to the leg post thingy because the small bolts aren't enough to hold it on the steel under weight. If the JB-weld doesn't work, I'm not too sure what my options are, because the bolts have to be thin because the thicker ones that actually fit the hole, have bolt heads that are too large, causing the slides to not work.

I also have to stain/finish the wood for the tray itself, and attach that to the frame. Plus I have to grind off the black paint on it.




Well I've been doing tedious things the past few days with the finishing of the two cabinets. I applied two coats of danish oil on the computer cabinet last Thursday, and waited until Sunday for it to cure.

I was not pleased at all with it to say the least.

The danish oil looked wildly inconsistent, and was way too glossy for my liking. So I was quite annoyed. I ended up sanding as much as I could down with 600/1500 grit paper. After not liking the results it gave, I decided to discontinue its use for the remainder of the project.

I was worried how well the arm-r-seal would go on over bare stain. But after staining the drawer cabinet, and sanding it down with 1500 grit sandpaper, it was quite smooth and even so I figured I'd try to put the topcoat right on the stain. It came out quite well (not pictured).

I also decided to switch to a satin finish for the arm-r-seal (I had previously bought a $43 gallon jug of now useless semigloss). The sheen matches pretty well with the sanded down danish oil on the left cabinet, so I'll count that as one coat of armor seal for the left cabinet as well.


Another problem with the danish oil is that it removes stain from the edges of the wood. Most likely because of the edgebanding. So that's another annoyance I'm dealing with now. I could have just left it, but it looked nasty.

So I ended up deciding to do what I did earlier and stain a little bit of it with the help of painter's tape:






You can see where the stain rubbed off from the danish oil:





After re-staining:






Horizontal edges done, on to the vertical:







It looks a little better. There are still some light spots that I could continue to be anal over, but the project needs to move along, and so does my sanity.





As mentioned above (if anybody read) I needed to figure out a solution for the keyboard tray drawer slides that didn't want to stay attached to the steel slides. So I figured JB-welding was my only option:





Done this week:

Stain both cabinets
Stain all 3 drawers
Applied danish oil to entire left cabinet and top drawer inside & out (reluctantly)
Tried to remove as much of danish oil as possible via sanding for hours
Sanded and applied first coat of arm-r-seal on drawer cabinet
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post #86 of 157
Absolutely fantastic project.

I think I'll stick to rushed scratch cases. A whole desk would be much too ambitious for my lack of patience and talent.
post #87 of 157
Could you not use counter suck flat heat bolts and nuts to attach the draw slides?

Update looks good
post #88 of 157
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by t-ramp View Post
Absolutely fantastic project.

I think I'll stick to rushed scratch cases. A whole desk would be much too ambitious for my lack of patience and talent.
Thanks, I appreciate the support. About ambition, I'm probably the least ambitious, patient, and talented person you'd ever meet. However what I lack in those aspects I make it up with stubbornness, gumption, and intuitiveness. So far those three traits have pushed me through.


Quote:
Originally Posted by animal0307 View Post
Could you not use counter suck flat heat bolts and nuts to attach the draw slides?

Update looks good

I honestly don't think so. I brought the slide with the steel plate it's attached to into Home Depot and asked if they knew of a bolt I could use that was both thick enough to fit in the rather large hole, and have a head flat enough that the slide wouldn't get stuck on it when pulling in and out. Unfortunately the thickest one, with the smallest head, was still too thin.

Since neither part of the slide is getting screwed directly into wood, bolts needed to be used. You can see below the wide part of the slide that would normally get screwed into the side of the desk is attached to the metal plate that slides up and down the legs of the metal frame








The other half of the slide that would normally screw into the keyboard tray itself, is bolted into an L shaped piece of aluminum, where the wood will sit on top and be screwed into it.

It's sort of a complex apparatus, but it was necessary so that the keyboard tray could be height adjustable. That's why I then needed to use JB weld because the bolts were not thick enough to hold the "cabinet half" of the slide on properly.

After it cured, it seems pretty strong to me, I did the other slide about 2 hours ago. I'll be having another update sometime later today/tonight.
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post #89 of 157
looks good. Seems you have it under control. Can't wait to see more.
post #90 of 157
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So after letting the JB Weld cure overnight, I took the clamps off, and noticed the slide no longer.. slid. I glued the sliding rail to the piece of the slide that was supposed to be glued to the steel plate (confusing). Some epoxy seeped through the holes I guess and bonded to the sliding part.





So I tried to pry off the middle sliding bar with two screwdrivers and a hammer. I could feel it releasing... then it exploded (sounds gross):





The ball bearings went flying everywhere. I could only wrangle 7 out of the 10. Grinded down the seepage:




So I put it back together and lubed it up with some WD40. It doesn't slide as smoothly as the other one, but it works fine.




This came from Amazon today:



Needed to trim up the uneven edges of the desk top:





It did quite a good job:





The aftermath:



I thought I had a sawdust problem before... pft...





Picked up some stuff at HD (again yes I know) yesterday, including these beauties:




I was weary of using the jigsaw because it had previously marred the veneer on other cuts I did. So I figured maybe I could use some tape to cover the saw plate, and it worked!





Oh painter's tape, is there nothing you can't do?


Did a practice cut on some scrap, the new blades cut much slower, but much cleaner. Very little splintering:




Drawing out the top hole in desk top:



Pilot holes:



Aaaand.. shablam:




It took a long time to cut through 1.5" of glued plywood.



So I figured I could spend hours upon hours cleaning up the edges with a file and sandpaper. OR I could use my new handy dandy flush router bit. However to do that, I'd need a clean edge to go off of.

Queue scrap pieces to the rescue:






However because of the clamps, I can't lay the desktop flat. It has to stand on its edge. Which makes it VERY hard to use the router vertically. Almost let the entire thing fall over, but caught it at the last second. I made some progress, but I think I'm going to recruit a friend to help hold the wood while I cut it.






Since the router bit is only 1", I need to make 2-3 passes with it, changing the bit depth each time. Probably going to put on another coat of poly on the cabinets after I eat my pizza
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