Overclock.net › Forums › Cooling › Air Cooling › [OFFICIAL] How to: Repair a "Broken" Fan.
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:

[OFFICIAL] How to: Repair a "Broken" Fan.

post #1 of 8
Thread Starter 
Well, let me say I don't have pictures of how i Repaired MY specific fan, but I do have pictures from google smile.gif

But, I can still let you guys know how to fix a dead fan (when It still does get power, but the blades are moving very, very slow and are making a buzzing noise).

The supplies you will need:

#1: Petroleum Jelly (Which I recommend over any other lube for stuff like this, and because It's really cheap)
#2: Flathead Screwdriver
#3: Que-tips (I recommend about 5-7)
#4: Your hands (if you have them).
#5: About 5-10 Minutes of time.
#6: A Tooth Brush + A small cup of water (Optional, if your fan is dust filled)

Okay, if you have all of those, then your good to go!

The Tutorial:

#1: Remove the fan from your Computer Case/Radiator, etc.

#2: Remove the Sticker with the Logo of the company that made the fan on the front of the fan (See attachment #1)

#3: Remove rubber insert with flathead

#4: You will see a little "O-ring" with a little slit in it around the barrel of the fan blade. Remove it carefully remembering not to break it because you will need it later on.

#5: Now that you have the O-Rin Removed, you can now gently pull the fan blades off of the fan base. It should be doing this sort of motion (See attachment #2).

#6: Now, if your fan is clean, you can skip cleaning it. If it's not, then you need to take your old tooth-brush + water and clean the fan thoroughly avoiding the fan's PCB/Bearings.

#7: Take your Que-tips and Petroleum Jelly and begin to lube the Fan's barrel and the insert of where the fan's barrel is set into place. Be generous with the Petroleum Jelly, but don't overload it.

Now after you have lubed the fan barrel and what-not, it's now time to begin the re-assembling process.

#8: Put the fan Blade's back into the fan's base, making sure that it fits perfectly.

#9: Now, get that "O-Ring" and gently place it back onto the fan barrel, making sure it snaps back on. This is very important because this is what keeps the fan blades attached to the fan's base.

#10: Insert the Rubber grommet, and clean up any extra petroleum jelly that has squeezed out.

You can optionally set the fan's sticker back onto the fan itself, or you can keep it off. Your choice my friend smile.gif

#11: Now, Re-insert the fan back onto your Computer Case/Radiator, etc. and bolt it in. Plug up the fan, And boom! Your fan is fixed and running smooth. Give it time though to let the petroleum Jelly really set in and do it's job before you go off running into nade's. I recommend about twenty minutes.


I hope this helped you fix a fan, and potentially 10$ + Out of your pocket!
Edited by Nvidia-Brownies - 8/6/11 at 9:30pm
post #2 of 8
Thread Starter 
Edit:


I did a bit of changing (just highlighting things and what not)
post #3 of 8
theres been one similar, not to rain on your parade or anything but there is something on how to repair a fan already and this has pics included

http://www.overclock.net/air-cooling/946287-have-ballbearing-nmb-any-type-fan.html

also

http://www.overclock.net/air-cooling/773256-prepping-sleeve-bearing-fan-work.html
   
Spare Rigs
(13 items)
 
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
core 2 duo P8700@2.53GHz 2242CTO Intel X4500MHD 4gb 
Hard DriveOptical DriveOSMonitor
fujitsu 320gb dvd rom cd/rw Windows 7 Professional x64 15.4" 
PowerCaseMouse
Panasonic 6-cell + 65W AC adapter lenovo t500 Logitech MX518 
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
Intel i5 760 evga p55 sli MSI gtx460 Hawk corsair dominator 
Hard DriveCoolingOSMonitor
kingston ssdnow hyper 212+ windows 7 professional sam syncmaster 
MonitorKeyboardPowerCase
Acer Razer Blackwidow ocz 650W coolermaster elite 335 
Mouse
Logitech MX518 
  hide details  
Reply
   
Spare Rigs
(13 items)
 
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
core 2 duo P8700@2.53GHz 2242CTO Intel X4500MHD 4gb 
Hard DriveOptical DriveOSMonitor
fujitsu 320gb dvd rom cd/rw Windows 7 Professional x64 15.4" 
PowerCaseMouse
Panasonic 6-cell + 65W AC adapter lenovo t500 Logitech MX518 
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
Intel i5 760 evga p55 sli MSI gtx460 Hawk corsair dominator 
Hard DriveCoolingOSMonitor
kingston ssdnow hyper 212+ windows 7 professional sam syncmaster 
MonitorKeyboardPowerCase
Acer Razer Blackwidow ocz 650W coolermaster elite 335 
Mouse
Logitech MX518 
  hide details  
Reply
post #4 of 8
Nice guide, but two things:

1) Isn't a light 3 in 1 oil better? Petroleum jelly evaporates, if I remember correctly.

2) Coolermaster Blademaster fans do not have a rubber insert (at least not anymore). As far as I can tell right now, there really isn't any easy way to open up and service these fans. Thoughts?
    
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
i5-2500K [24/7: 4.9ghz 1.47v] ASRock P67 Extreme 4 (B3) EVGA Geforce 570 [890/2200 1.1v] G.Skill Ripjaws 2x4GB 1600Mhz 
Hard DriveMonitorPowerCase
WD Caviar Black 1TB HP f2105 1680x1050 Corsair TX750 V2 (backup Antec BP550W) Antec 902 
Mouse
Logitech G500 
  hide details  
Reply
    
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
i5-2500K [24/7: 4.9ghz 1.47v] ASRock P67 Extreme 4 (B3) EVGA Geforce 570 [890/2200 1.1v] G.Skill Ripjaws 2x4GB 1600Mhz 
Hard DriveMonitorPowerCase
WD Caviar Black 1TB HP f2105 1680x1050 Corsair TX750 V2 (backup Antec BP550W) Antec 902 
Mouse
Logitech G500 
  hide details  
Reply
post #5 of 8
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by donkrx;14492679 
Nice guide, but two things:

1) Isn't a light 3 in 1 oil better? Petroleum jelly evaporates, if I remember correctly.

2) Coolermaster Blademaster fans do not have a rubber insert (at least not anymore). As far as I can tell right now, there really isn't any easy way to open up and service these fans. Thoughts?

No, they've always had to be a hard way unless the product features "Fan Blade Removable" for easy access. The Cooler master Excalibur Has an easy fan blade remove feature, but the bloody fan itself is 20$.
post #6 of 8
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by chinesethunda;14492657 
theres been one similar, not to rain on your parade or anything but there is something on how to repair a fan already and this has pics included

http://www.overclock.net/air-cooling/946287-have-ballbearing-nmb-any-type-fan.html

also

http://www.overclock.net/air-cooling/773256-prepping-sleeve-bearing-fan-work.html

Eh, didn't see it so I thought I'd just share too.
post #7 of 8
What I mean is its 100% completely sealed - no rubber thing, no ring, absolutely nothing. I guess they (coolermaster) replaced the seal to cut on manufacturing costs, and now we just can't pop it open like before. I would pull out the dremel and drill into it, but honestly I'm pretty sure I'd just be drilling into the oil well and then I'd be SOL for sealing it back up - save hot glue.

I did get a humming CM Blademaster with my 212+, and surprisingly a couple drops of oil into the little opening completely stopped it. I was like "well, I'll just try this, and hope for the best" but I definitely expected nothing to come of it. Who knows. So when I got my 2nd fan before even installing it I did the same, they both sound great now.

I wish I could open it up though and fool around with it, especially in a year or so when its not as smooth running.
    
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
i5-2500K [24/7: 4.9ghz 1.47v] ASRock P67 Extreme 4 (B3) EVGA Geforce 570 [890/2200 1.1v] G.Skill Ripjaws 2x4GB 1600Mhz 
Hard DriveMonitorPowerCase
WD Caviar Black 1TB HP f2105 1680x1050 Corsair TX750 V2 (backup Antec BP550W) Antec 902 
Mouse
Logitech G500 
  hide details  
Reply
    
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
i5-2500K [24/7: 4.9ghz 1.47v] ASRock P67 Extreme 4 (B3) EVGA Geforce 570 [890/2200 1.1v] G.Skill Ripjaws 2x4GB 1600Mhz 
Hard DriveMonitorPowerCase
WD Caviar Black 1TB HP f2105 1680x1050 Corsair TX750 V2 (backup Antec BP550W) Antec 902 
Mouse
Logitech G500 
  hide details  
Reply
post #8 of 8
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by donkrx;14492932 
What I mean is its 100% completely sealed - no rubber thing, no ring, absolutely nothing. I guess they (coolermaster) replaced the seal to cut on manufacturing costs, and now we just can't pop it open like before. I would pull out the dremel and drill into it, but honestly I'm pretty sure I'd just be drilling into the oil well and then I'd be SOL for sealing it back up - save hot glue.

I did get a humming CM Blademaster with my 212+, and surprisingly a couple drops of oil into the little opening completely stopped it. I was like "well, I'll just try this, and hope for the best" but I definitely expected nothing to come of it. Who knows. So when I got my 2nd fan before even installing it I did the same, they both sound great now.

I wish I could open it up though and fool around with it, especially in a year or so when its not as smooth running.

Yeah, I would take the time later on to drill a small hole to access etc etc. My Blue 120MM ICube fan is pushing more air than when I first got it. I used the petroleum jelly tonight and I just thought that I should let the community know it does work fine.
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:
  Return Home
  Back to Forum: Air Cooling
Overclock.net › Forums › Cooling › Air Cooling › [OFFICIAL] How to: Repair a "Broken" Fan.