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post #11 of 20
or you could grab some wooden stove paint...it handles extreme temps...

rustoleum makes it
look around at a local ace or home depot ask them about highest heat but not thick paint....you want it to be THIN
Super thin because high heat paint is pretty thick just...and will act as an insulator....
just do a mist over it (make sure you clean off the sink though with alchol and such so that the paint sticks...)

that is all

Or you could as maxxa stated
find somebody who could anodize it (more money but worth it)
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post #12 of 20
i would highly advise against doing so. sometimes you need to sacrifice looks for functionality.


and dont use lead paint lol
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post #13 of 20
Quote:
Originally Posted by odin2free View Post
or you could grab some wooden stove paint...it handles extreme temps...
its not about the paint handling the temps, its more about the heatsinks retaining heat because of the paint and damaging components. on a stove you want to hold the heat in, not get it out.
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post #14 of 20
Go for it! Sure it won't be as good as having the bare metal but it'll still be better than no heatsink at all. Just make sure that it has the thinnest layer that still looks OK to you, like the other posters suggested.
post #15 of 20
I have purchased two types of aftermarket heatsinks.One example is anodized and the other is bare metal (either aluminum or copper). I do not have an example of a painted heatsink.
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post #16 of 20
Quote:
Originally Posted by odin2free View Post
or you could grab some wooden stove paint...it handles extreme temps...

rustoleum makes it
look around at a local ace or home depot ask them about highest heat but not thick paint....you want it to be THIN
Super thin because high heat paint is pretty thick just...and will act as an insulator....
just do a mist over it (make sure you clean off the sink though with alchol and such so that the paint sticks...)

that is all

Or you could as maxxa stated
find somebody who could anodize it (more money but worth it)

It's not the paint handling heat that is the issue; it's the fact it acts as an Insulator, and will trap the heat.
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post #17 of 20
hahah

DONt get stove paint...(stove paint as others have shot my idea down with actual thought...unlike me with quick thinking no fact behind it lol)

Instead why dont you just go to a local paint and body shop ask them about how they paint the engine blocks and headers...
they will probally give you some better feedback and where to do anodizing and such like that for your parts...

honestly silver and copper look better on a computer..
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post #18 of 20
Quote:
Originally Posted by odin2free View Post
hahah

DONt get stove paint...(stove paint as others have shot my idea down with actual thought...unlike me with quick thinking no fact behind it lol)

Instead why dont you just go to a local paint and body shop ask them about how they paint the engine blocks and headers...
they will probally give you some better feedback and where to do anodizing and such like that for your parts...

honestly silver and copper look better on a computer..

I am an Auto Painter. lol We actually use Enamel and Clear it. Still too thick for little heatsinks. We can get away with it on engines because they have a much larger area to dissipate heat.
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post #19 of 20
stove paint is an insulator, same as the paint they use on headers and blocks, it protects the metal from damage. way thick.
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post #20 of 20
Thread Starter 
Ok, so the general thought is not to do it. Sadly that will mean my new VRM heatsink will stick out, but it will mean better heat conductivity. It wouldn't be worth it to purchase the thermal pads to stick it on if it wouldn't conduct very much heat.

Thank you,
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