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Fixing up old subwoofer?

post #1 of 38
Thread Starter 
Alright, so a couple years ago, Home Depot had an awesome sale on MDF. I grabbed a couple sheets of the 3/4" stuff and built a crazily huge sealed subwoofer box. The dimensions are 45x18x15, for a total of 12.247 cubic feet. There is a brace/divider seperating the two halves of the box, making each sub's enclosure bout 6 cubic feet.

I decided to save up a little cash to finish this long lost project, and my current budget is around $200-$250. The drivers in there now are some old 12's I got from a garage sale, all for a grand total of $5. They aren't the best, so my first order of business is replacing them.

Anyone have suggestions on some decent subwoofers that would fit my budget? Right now, I'm looking at the Dayton DCS385-4 for $100 each.
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post #2 of 38
Do you have an amp already? It will determine impedance.
I would grab a pair of Alpine Type R 12's. Their rated at 600W a piece, Ive put 900W (RMS) a piece to mine and they loved it. They are a little out of your budeget at 140 each though

http://www.onlinecarstereo.com/CarAu...SWR-1243D.aspx

http://www.onlinecarstereo.com/CarAu...SWR-1223D.aspx
Edited by OutOfBalanceOX - 8/12/11 at 6:24am
    
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post #3 of 38
Why are you putting 12's in such a large sealed enclosure?

6 cuft is 15-18" area for a ported box.
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post #4 of 38
Quote:
Originally Posted by pioneerisloud View Post
Why are you putting 12's in such a large sealed enclosure?

6 cuft is 15-18" area for a ported box.
lmao, so true. 6 cubes is enuff for 2 BIG 12" drivers.
Edited by banging34hzs - 8/12/11 at 6:30am
    
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post #5 of 38
Quote:
Originally Posted by pioneerisloud View Post
Why are you putting 12's in such a large sealed enclosure?

6 cuft is 15-18" area for a ported box.
this is also true, so take a saw and cut the box in thirds, 2cuft is plenty (and by that I mean generally too much) for sealed 12's
    
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post #6 of 38
Pick your subs first, THEN build the box around the specs of the subs. You'll get a lot better sound that way.
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post #7 of 38
Quote:
Originally Posted by pioneerisloud View Post
Pick your subs first, THEN build the box around the specs of the subs. You'll get a lot better sound that way.
this is generally how it's done....
    
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post #8 of 38
Thread Starter 
I know, I know, I didn't really think this through when I made it, but it was built to fit perfectly in a "cubby" in the wall.

The 12s were just placeholders until I could afford to upgrade. The Dayton DCS385 is a 15, with people using sealed boxes around my size. Those Alpines look sweet, and I've got a couple of the 10" ones in my car, but I'm looking more at 15s at the moment.

Oh, and I've got an old Denon DRA-375RD in the garage, meaning 8ohms is our sweetspot. It's only 100w per channel, but I'll upgrade it once I can.
Edited by GeekFreak - 8/12/11 at 1:09pm
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post #9 of 38
Thread Starter 
Anyone have ideas? I'm sure that you guys know better than me.
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post #10 of 38
Use 4 12s to drive an 18,
or liberate some 18" yellow plastic tube(the type used for running water)
and stick an 18 on one end and leave the other open,true sub effects and not a whole lot of noise...
I thank you L.S.Diezel!
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