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Sunbeam Rheosmart 6 Failure [PICTURE INSIDE]

post #1 of 7
Thread Starter 
So, today I start my pc as usual and I noticed a little bit different to my system...it seems it became more quiet...very very quiet...the only thing I can hear is my hard disk caching into windows. Out of curiosity, I open up my case and found out all my fans are not moving.

I was surprised and fearing that something had happen to my fans, my fans are quite pricey in my country consider the import tax...then I found out my trusty SUNBEAM RHEOSMART 6 doesn't even have the LED light on, I was like "****,I think I just fried my sunbeam"

Eventually, I did not believe what I've seen, in my mind, sunbeam was a reputable company since so many reviews are around about their product. In haste, I do the trial-n-error style to figure out whats wrong with my fan controller.
PSU direct to fans - checked, fans are ok
PSU direct to sunbeam rheosmart 6 without powering any fans - checked, No LED, heatsink is cold, doesnt have burnt smell, everything look like normal on the surface

then I looked at the thin layer of foam under the fan controller itself and started peeling it off from the PCB, then it came out infront of me the image below


The super-thin layer of the PCB traces have magically blown off, I have no idea what had happened
It seems the a strong current had just pass through that trace and caused breakage

Well I'm pretty disappointed right now, I think I will just use a 18AWG wire and connect all the pin leg together now or dump a **** load of solder on that spot since theres still some copper there. Any other idea to fix this mess?

for those who are curious what fan I used:
120mm Sanyo Denki H series
model - 109R1212H1D041
dimension : 120*120*38mm
speed : 2600rpm
airflow : 103cfm
noise level : 39dB
current rating - 0.52A
power consumption : 6.24W

I connect each single fan to single channel so it will not stressed the controller too much and yea, I got six of these
post #2 of 7
Jumper it with wire like you said, easy way.
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post #3 of 7
How many watts per channel is that controller rated for and how high did you have your fans?
post #4 of 7
Thread Starter 
30W per channel as advertised, all the stuff I've been plugging in doesnt even pass 20W mark

well, sorta fixed it.


I will keep an eye on this little controller from time to time in case it decided to take a break again.
Edited by BListein - 8/12/11 at 11:16am
post #5 of 7
Quote:
Originally Posted by BListein View Post
30W per channel as advertised, all the stuff I've been plugging in doesnt even pass 20W mark

well, sorta fixed it.


I will keep an eye on this little controller from time to time in case it decided to take a break again.
Hi, sorry to see this. A couple things catch my eye... I don't see any burning or burn marks which I would expect to see if the PCB trace blew off, especially around the molex 12v input. It looks more like a mfg defect... and it would not surprise me that this controller got QA passed and unfortunately failed on you.

Also, just speculating here.. you may have pushed the controller to its limit with your six SD fan's, (ie, can't actually deliver 30w per channel across all six channels)

Did you have multiple fans connected on one channel or just one fan? Possibly a power surge from the PSU? Did you measure the voltage between the two points? Or other points on the PCB? Are you getting 12v or something else?

Connecting the AP-31's possibly shorted something?

btw, nice fix
Edited by gymenii - 8/12/11 at 1:51pm
post #6 of 7
109R1212H1D041 means that this is a fan specially made for a customer. Normal 109R1212H101's draw 0.5A, which means 6W running, perhaps 12W on startup, which shouldn't strain any controller at one fan per channel.

Is this strictly a Voltage controlled fan? No PWM? Just my academic curiosity here.

I can't see how the controller ever passed current. How could the traces just vanish? Were the traces not copper, but a water-soluble substance that dissolved in your humid air? You're in Malaysia, after all. Or is your computer in a climate controlled setting where humidity is not a problem.

From your fans to the controller failure, you have set us out a lovely situation.
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alpha updated
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secundus
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CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
i7 4790k Gigabyte GA-Z97X Gaming-7 Intel HD4600 Crucial Ballistix Sport Very Low Profile 8GB Ki... 
Hard DriveCoolingOSMonitor
Samsung 840 EVO 500GB Prolimatech Megahalems Rev. C Windows 8.1 Home Premium 64-bit Acer K242HL 
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post #7 of 7
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by gymenii View Post
Hi, sorry to see this. A couple things catch my eye... I don't see any burning or burn marks which I would expect to see if the PCB trace blew off, especially around the molex 12v input. It looks more like a mfg defect... and it would not surprise me that this controller got QA passed and unfortunately failed on you.

Also, just speculating here.. you may have pushed the controller to its limit with your six SD fan's, (ie, can't actually deliver 30w per channel across all six channels)

Did you have multiple fans connected on one channel or just one fan? Possibly a power surge from the PSU? Did you measure the voltage between the two points? Or other points on the PCB? Are you getting 12v or something else?

Connecting the AP-31's possibly shorted something?

btw, nice fix
I connected single fan to single channel. my AP-31 is on another 4-pin molex power source. I'm guessing a power surge too since one of the power phase of my house went out due to spark on the wire.



Quote:
Originally Posted by ehume View Post
109R1212H1D041 means that this is a fan specially made for a customer. Normal 109R1212H101's draw 0.5A, which means 6W running, perhaps 12W on startup, which shouldn't strain any controller at one fan per channel.

Is this strictly a Voltage controlled fan? No PWM? Just my academic curiosity here.

I can't see how the controller ever passed current. How could the traces just vanish? Were the traces not copper, but a water-soluble substance that dissolved in your humid air? You're in Malaysia, after all. Or is your computer in a climate controlled setting where humidity is not a problem.

From your fans to the controller failure, you have set us out a lovely situation.

yes, I agree on that, the sanyo denki shouldn't even make the heatsink hot.
Its a voltage controlled fan, its under H101 family so I guess no PWM but the wattage draw is so small I dont even bother to do PWM on it.
I think the 18W DDC pump I connected to the controller when I'm filling my loop create the root of this mess or maybe a power surge from my house but that will fried my PSU first, no?
and yea Malaysia is tropical country where rains and sunshine through out the whole year but I don't think the air in my area are humid enough to cause these and no climate control here
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