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post #11 of 94
8/16/11 at 11:29am
Please post some close up pics of the evap's internals showing the inlet and outlet points.
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post #12 of 94
8/16/11 at 11:41am
Thread Starter 
Will do. I can't at the moment because I'm in the process of relocating my workbench a little closer to home. The temp workbench you saw was about an hour from where I live (long story... don't ask).
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post #13 of 94
8/17/11 at 6:46pm
Thread Starter 


New torch came in today.

Unfortunately I just realized that this one is oxygen-propylene, not oxygen-MAPP. Do you guys think it will work decently enough that I should keep it? Maybe I could just get a MAPP cylinder and connect it to the torch as well.
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post #14 of 94
8/17/11 at 7:01pm
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/MAPP_gas

That is Mapp gas. Good job man and nice purchase . I still recommend getting some extra oxygen bottles as u can.

Glad to see you moving forward .
Edited by flocko - 8/17/11 at 7:24pm
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post #15 of 94
8/17/11 at 7:49pm
Thread Starter 


According to the wiki MAPP is a mixture of Propyne and Propadiene, both of which are structurally similar to propylene, however differ in the number of hydrogens and types of bonds between the 3 carbons (though to be technical the locations of the hydrogens cause propylene to be bent in the middle while the two MAPP components are straight). But you were pretty close.

Now how about the temps?
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post #16 of 94
8/17/11 at 8:08pm
It looks like Mapp but I'm pretty sure that's the new Propylene Fatboy bottle. Propylene will work just fine too.

The flame can be a bit tricky to get adjusted at first. I will give a brief explanation to save you some frustration. Start the torch with the Propylene or Mapp making sure the flame is connected to the tip..no gaps. Then adjust O2 till there is approx. a 3/8" long inner blue flame...Done! That setting there will braze all joints quickly except the evap. You can intensify the flame if needed for brazing the evap. You can go with a smaller size flame for tight places but be careful, don't let the size of the flame fool you, it can easily melt copper if set wrong.

Make sure you wear eye protection. Preferably some brazing glasses shade 1.5-3.

I included a couple pics of the startup procedure.

Congrats on your new toy!

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post #17 of 94
8/17/11 at 8:15pm
Thread Starter 
Thanks a bunch!
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post #18 of 94
8/18/11 at 7:35am
Nothing beats Oxy/Acet but that is pretty expensive.
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post #19 of 94
8/19/11 at 8:12am
Thread Starter 
Alright new day, new workbench, new chance to succeed (or fail miserably).



@drew: Here are the evap internals. Do you think I should soak in acid now before I try to braze again or just sand around the edges where the silver will flow into? Obviously it gets the acid treatment after I'm done.



I also have some pics of my compressor/condenser if you would like.
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post #20 of 94
8/19/11 at 8:24pm
That evap is already drilled for top feed bottom return. I would have drilled the return hole on the opposite side. That would force more refrigerant to flow through and around the lower level. Just keep the return hole at 12 o'clock(up) then. Hopefully that will allow some flooding down below the return.

Yes, just clean the surfaces that will be brazed for now, the acid will get the rest afterwards. Having a flat evap is crucial for lowest cpu core temps. You will need to lap the evap after brazing. You won't be able to do a good job with the flexline attached so you should braze a 3/8" x 3" stub for now. You can't acid clean with the captube brazed in so you'll need to drill the captube hole to 3/16" and braze in a 3/16" x 1" stub. Then you can slip the captube inside the stub for easy brazing.

You should leak check the evap after you braze it. Crimp the end of the 3/8" stub shut and braze. Slip a 1/4" schrader valve over the very end (just 1/8") of the 3/16" stub and braze. Leak check at 150psi. If no leaks then unsweat access valve, cut 3/8" stub down(1 1/2") and proceed with acid cleaning then lapping.

That compressor has POE oil so make sure you keep it sealed until your ready to braze and pull vacuum.

What type of flexline are you using?

Sure.. post more pics.
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