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post #31 of 94
Quote:
Originally Posted by dinkledork View Post
Yeah, I'm not really a fan of those valves. I would rather copper stubs. I can easily get rid of the valve on the liquid line but I'm not sure what to do with the suction. If I can not get rid of it what would type of fitting would I need for that valve?

I dont think you understand what im saying.

You braze on the valves so that you can purge and pressure test. When your done you either cut them off of the suction line (ergo the stub at the end of your copper flex which you will need to add or if you go the captube route snip it off the cap tube side).

Just trying to save you some trouble...
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post #32 of 94
Thread Starter 
The valves I was refering to were the valves physically on the compressor. There is one on at the end of the liquid line, and one where the suction line would connect (see the second compressor pic).

As for the purging, pressure test, etc. I don't have nitrogen because I'm nowhere near any welding supply stores or anyplace that would sell that stuff. I agree with you though that it would be easier if I had one so I'm probably going to do some driving around to see if there is one beyond where I looked, even though I brazed the evap up already.
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post #33 of 94
To pressure test your suction line for leaks just use some of the r404a you purchased. 150psi will be fine for checking the suction line for leaks.

You just use the valves for pressure testing and purging your line set...then remove.




If you add to the captube end and seal the suction line end you can also verify that you didnt braze the end of your captube shut as well.
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post #34 of 94
Thread Starter 
Ok the evap held a 750 micron vacuum for about 12 hours. I just got my flex line today so I am going to braze that on and then do a pressure test so as not to waste as much gas. Even though I am using r404a can I charge as a gas for the sole purpose of pressure testing?

Also does a system of this size require a reciever? I told the guy who mantains our AC system about this project and he said I needed one, but I don't rember seeing any recievers in any of the SS build logs I have seen around here.
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post #35 of 94
Receivers are typically used on systems that use a txv as a metering device for the refrigerant . Not always but usually. In a cap tube metering situation you will be charging the unit for it's maximum load holding capabilities at lowest evap temps. So no need for a reservoir to hold excess refrigerant (receiver) in your situation. Cap tube units are intended to be used at there maximum potential at all times the unit is on.

Drew gave you purging options as far as gases go and those are the obvious choices for pressure testing . I'll leave it at that I would prefer to see you vacuum the suction line after it is brazed to the evap / prior to brazing to the compressor than use refrigerant as a pressure testing medium.

BTW ... don't forget to lap the evap face prior to brazing the suction line to evap or you will never get it truly flat .

My opinion only !

-Flocko
Edited by flocko - 8/26/11 at 1:18pm
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post #36 of 94
Go Noles
Edited by Sdumper - 8/26/11 at 5:48pm
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post #37 of 94
I believe DD meant an accumulator, the answer is yes you'll need one for high load. I take it scott is going to show you how in pm.

You can't rely on a standing vacuum test for leak checking as there are too many variables that can affect the reading. Also vacuum is basically only a 14.7psi pressure test at sea level. The standing vacuum test is more for indicating moisture in the system.

Leak check with nitrogen to 150psi like scott said. You could also use compressed air for the evap or the r404a or r134a if you have to.. it won't take much. If you're asking if you can charge gas vs liquid then yes for that small amount... just not for filling the whole unit.

Inspect each joint carefully as you braze. A 5x dental mirror comes in handy here. Once all joints are brazed then the next step would normally be a leak check with 150psi nitrogen and leak detection solution(soapy water). Since you don't have nitrogen then I would make sure the unit pulls down to at least 200 microns, then charge r404a and leak check. There is a way you can charge mostly gas with the bottle inverted for liquid. I can explain that later if you're interested.
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post #38 of 94
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by flocko View Post
Receivers are typically used on systems that use a txv as a metering device for the refrigerant . Not always but usually. In a cap tube metering situation you will be charging the unit for it's maximum load holding capabilities at lowest evap temps. So no need for a reservoir to hold excess refrigerant (receiver) in your situation. Cap tube units are intended to be used at there maximum potential at all times the unit is on.

Drew gave you purging options as far as gases go and those are the obvious choices for pressure testing . I'll leave it at that I would prefer to see you vacuum the suction line after it is brazed to the evap / prior to brazing to the compressor than use refrigerant as a pressure testing medium.

BTW ... don't forget to lap the evap face prior to brazing the suction line to evap or you will never get it truly flat .

My opinion only !

-Flocko
There is a fine line between the obvious and the convenient.

I already finished sanding on 150 grit. Next I will move to 400 then 800, then braze on the flex line, braze everything else up, and then when I am ready to mount I will do a final polish with my ICD7, use articlean, them mount with Ceramique 2.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Sdumper View Post
Go Noles
If that's not a reference to that reciever building project of Nol's on Xtreme System's a couple years back then I have no idea what you are talking about. (Amazing. All the research and reading of build logs in a frivolous attempt to avoid the mistakes everyone else made, yet I still feel like I have absolutely no idea what I am doing )

Quote:
Originally Posted by Drewmeister View Post
I believe DD meant an accumulator, the answer is yes you'll need one for high load. I take it scott is going to show you how in pm.

You can't rely on a standing vacuum test for leak checking as there are too many variables that can affect the reading. Also vacuum is basically only a 14.7psi pressure test at sea level. The standing vacuum test is more for indicating moisture in the system.

Leak check with nitrogen to 150psi like scott said. You could also use compressed air for the evap or the r404a or r134a if you have to.. it won't take much. If you're asking if you can charge gas vs liquid then yes for that small amount... just not for filling the whole unit.

Inspect each joint carefully as you braze. A 5x dental mirror comes in handy here. Once all joints are brazed then the next step would normally be a leak check with 150psi nitrogen and leak detection solution(soapy water). Since you don't have nitrogen then I would make sure the unit pulls down to at least 200 microns, then charge r404a and leak check. There is a way you can charge mostly gas with the bottle inverted for liquid. I can explain that later if you're interested.
I thought he meant an accumulator too, but no, a reciever.

So then I will go on with the final construction and do an initial gas charge just to check for leaks, then pull a vacuum, and charge as a liquid for a final charge.


If you guys can't tell by now I kinda have to cheap out wherever I can as this is a personal project. If all goes well and I decide to build for others then I would be able to afford to buy this so-called "standard equipment."
(I guess I may as well schedule my first commercial build for December 22nd, 2012 )
Edited by dinkledork - 8/26/11 at 8:38pm
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post #39 of 94
Thread Starter 
Alright I have prepared the evaporator this morning so I will now proceed to braze the rest of the unit. I feel like an idiot having just realized those valves were just flare fittings.

Here you can see I just got started.



Those pipes are a little tough to bend, especially the 3/8" ID. As you can see I botched a bend.

Edit:



Done brazing on suction, All I have left to do is the captube and then I can connect everything else up.
Edited by dinkledork - 8/28/11 at 3:41pm
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post #40 of 94
Thread Starter 
Drumroll please.







Done brazing

That actually ended up a lot easier than I expected, as there were only a select few snags on the way. My Oxygen/Propylene torch did the job very well. If you set the flame right you can bring the pipe to brazing temperature in just a few seconds. Each bottle of oxygen actually lasts quite a while if you set it correctly, which you can do with just a little practice. (granted, I may have accidentally switched up my slightly used and new oxygen bottles, but even if I didn't then I still have quite a bit left in both)

I am vacuuming right now, and will later verify that it works by producing ice. After that I will have to wait untill my tube of ceramique 2 arrives.
Edited by dinkledork - 8/28/11 at 5:51pm
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