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6990 Two Hot? - Page 6

post #51 of 60
Quote:
Originally Posted by noak View Post
AS5 + GPU = a short circuit. AS5 is conductive.
This is getting out of hand. IF YOU DON'T KNOW, DON'T COMMENT;

AS5 is not electrically conductive. It produces a slight capacitance when applied.
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post #52 of 60
Quote:
Originally Posted by noak View Post
AS5 + GPU = a short circuit. AS5 is conductive.
it's not conductive. It's the material they use in AS5. The silver may have side effects and also there are better thermal grease than AS5 which is MX-3 or 4 or Shin-Etsu
 
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post #53 of 60
Quote:
Originally Posted by djriful View Post
it's not conductive. It's the material they use in AS5. The silver may have side effects and also there are better thermal grease than AS5 which is MX-3 or 4 or Shin-Etsu
Or liquid ultra or Indigo extreme(both are better than what you listed).
    
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post #54 of 60
Quote:
Originally Posted by Anthraxinsoup View Post
Or liquid ultra or Indigo extreme(both are better than what you listed).
omg same guy ! xD
 
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post #55 of 60
get a better pump
Edited by ranger052 - 8/14/11 at 3:04pm
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post #56 of 60
Thread Starter 
edit
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ken1649 View Post
Lamptron FC5 Rev2
Looks very nice and will look very nice in my cace but the Gentle Typhoon 5,400 RPM only used molex no 3 pin could I buy or jimmy rig my own 3 pin or is there any controlers that will control a fan that only has a molex connector on it


Quote:
Originally Posted by Ken1649 View Post
That +1

NightAss, looking at your pic no. 2, you missed to applied thermal pad on the Choke/Inductor area. Please carefully look again. I am on mobile device and couldn't attach the picture to show you.

Do not use AS especially the electrical conductive TIM.
sorry my bad for leaving info out that pad stuck to the card it self so gessing it made contact then

I all so put 1mm pads on all the spots needed put it back in my PC and the vreg was at 135c at full mining load and the GPU was hiting 100c and down clocking it self so I took it out opened it back up and sor a few 1mm pads that was way more crushed then otheres, eg too think to get the GPU to lay flush on the heet sink becos of the think pads so I removed the crushed ones and put 0.5mm ones on the spots that got to cruched then closed it back up GPU temps went back down but vreg is still around 130c with 1mm pads

Quote:
Originally Posted by Ken1649 View Post
but if I see it right, you are using Thermaltake Big Water Kit?
yes I am

Quote:
Originally Posted by Ken1649 View Post
If that is the case, the radiator is made of full aluminum
why is that bad?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Ken1649 View Post
by looking at your coolant color, it is Thermaltake premixed coolant?
no it came with green **** witch I used for like a yer or two but when my pump died I replaced the pump and watter with PC ICE Non-Conductive Coolant witch saved my life 4 times over the yers one drip went on my ram one drip went on my motherbord cmos battey and one right next to my CPU and one driped on to a GTX295 and nothing died lol

Quote:
Originally Posted by Ken1649 View Post
You might want to get additional pump as spares
yea thank god when the pump died I had an old watercooling pump from my Thermaltake armor LCS and the pump fit the Thermaltake armor+ LCS perfictly I have a new pump in a box that is the same as the Thermaltake armor+ LCS one so if the pump dies I have a brand new unopened one

Quote:
Originally Posted by Ken1649 View Post
Gentle Typhoon 5,400 RPM On full rev, it is comparable to 6990 stock fan at 100%
yes it is I can valch for that but its a less anoing pitch and am shore it would do a fine jump at 3000 RPM


I cashed out 28 bitcoin last night to the sum of $290 bucks -$10 bucks mtgox AUS bank xfer fee + USD to AUD converion with current exchange rate I should get about $7 AUD <---(Joke)

so will use that cash to try and get a pump and rez


Quote:
Originally Posted by Ken1649 View Post
If that is the case, the radiator is made of full aluminum
why is that bad? I have been runing my 2x 120mm radator with that for over 18months would it brake my radator? and been runing my 1x 120 radator with it for like 1month and my 3x120 radator for like 3 days are thay all broken now?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Ken1649 View Post
by looking at your coolant color, it is Thermaltake premixed coolant?
all so I orded 2 bottles of Koolance Hi Performance Liquid Coolant (LIQ-702) but as I know its bad to mix coolants I am drained most of the old coolent out and filled it with distiled and will drain that and fill it with Koolance but I orded 2 and the shop only sent me 1 700ml will not fill up my PC I need 2


othere then the Choke/Inductor area the pad inprints looked fine yes? any need to file that nut thing down? why could thay both not be low temps like my first ATI 6990 it only gets 80 to 95 vreg unlike my 2ed one getting 130+


PS there are a few tools on this forum but there are a lot of very smart wel informed ppl who try and help othere ppl wish I came here befor setting up my sistem would not have been any where need as much of a pain when I could have just asked for a shoping list
Edited by NightAss - 8/14/11 at 4:05pm
post #57 of 60
Quote:
Originally Posted by NightAss View Post
edit Looks very nice and will look very nice in my cace but the Gentle Typhoon 5,400 RPM only used molex no 3 pin could I buy or jimmy rig my own 3 pin or is there any controlers that will control a fan that only has a molex connector on it
Well, you could jimmy rig the 3 pin easy, I did that with all my GT 5,400s. But if it is too much you could get this 3-4pin Molex Power Adapter.

Quote:
I all so put 1mm pads on all the spots needed put it back in my PC and the vreg was at 135c at full mining load and the GPU was hiting 100c and down clocking it self so I took it out opened it back up and sor a few 1mm pads that was way more crushed then otheres, eg too think to get the GPU to lay flush on the heet sink becos of the think pads so I removed the crushed ones and put 0.5mm ones on the spots that got to cruched then closed it back up GPU temps went back down but vreg is still around 130c with 1mm pads

othere then the Choke/Inductor area the pad inprints looked fine yes? any need to file that nut thing down? why could thay both not be low temps like my first ATI 6990 it only gets 80 to 95 vreg unlike my 2ed one getting 130+
Well, you should not see temperature difference of more than 3 - 4°C for the 4 GPUs and among 4 VRMs temperature all across the boards. The huge difference in the temps just shows some of the areas are not making proper contact for heat dissipation. It is up to you to either to file it down or just use 1.0 mm thermal pads, whatever you think is easier and will give better temperature.

Edit:

The Koolance pink 1.0 mm pad is not very good for thermal conductivity. Try to use 2 layer of 0.5 mm see if that helps. Or if you can easily get 1.0 mm with this specification 6.0watt/mk in Australia. If not, mod the block is the only choice and becareful don't overdo it.

Quote:
why is that bad? I have been runing my 2x 120mm radator with that for over 18months would it brake my radator? and been runing my 1x 120 radator with it for like 1month and my 3x120 radator for like 3 days are thay all broken now?

all so I orded 2 bottles of Koolance Hi Performance Liquid Coolant (LIQ-702) but as I know its bad to mix coolants I am drained most of the old coolent out and filled it with distiled and will drain that and fill it with Koolance but I orded 2 and the shop only sent me 1 700ml will not fill up my PC I need 2
If you are using mixed metal such as aluminum and copper radiator or copper CPU block for that matter, it will cause 'galvanize corrosion' as a result from electrochemical process. When you turn the PC on, there will be some electrical current conducted thru waterblock to the coolant that turns into electrolyte ion migration to create the corrosion. Aluminum and Copper have different electrode potentials. Easiest way to explain it is how the car battery works.

If that is the case you will need corrosion inhibitor to slow the corrosion rate down to where it doesn't matter. Not that they are going to break but you will need to change the coolant more frequently as compared to only one type of metal used. But if you let the corrosion to progress in the long run, it will cause leakage or blockage. The chart below will show the corrosion rate with and without the inhibitor.

The Koolance pre-mixed coolant has corrosion inhibitor, just watch out for coolant discoloration. When the color changes, it is time to drain it and replace it with new fresh fluid.



You made smart choices there with the QDCs without having to drain the loop completely, for example, when you need to take out GPU blocks to check. I have not less 10 of them in the system.
Edited by Ken1649 - 8/15/11 at 1:12am
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post #58 of 60
NightAss, you didn't post back. I hope everything was fine and you didn't break anything
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post #59 of 60
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ken1649 View Post
NightAss, you didn't post back. I hope everything was fine and you didn't break anything
Hey Ken I did but it was deleted by an admin

I orerd (Koolance RP-452X2 Reservoir for PMP-450/S Pumps Rev.1.3) (Koolance PMP-450S 12/24V Water Pump) still looking for a 360 radator that will fit in my HAF-X

I pulled apart my 6990 watter block 13 times removing and adding pads when ever i got the vreg temps down the GPU temps would go very up at one point the dam GPU temp #3 went over 150c I ended up saying crikey hell did not care if it broke the card as long as I was dun with this crikey card and took all the pads off and put 3 full tubes of arctic silver 5 on the block it self


then terned the block over and sat it on the card and all the silver squwished out cleared up what I could then put it in my PC and what do you know the temps wer better then my good card and the temps are even better now the card has heeted up and cooled down
post #60 of 60
Quote:
Originally Posted by NightAss View Post
Hey Ken I did but it was deleted by an admin

I orerd (Koolance RP-452X2 Reservoir for PMP-450/S Pumps Rev.1.3) (Koolance PMP-450S 12/24V Water Pump) still looking for a 360 radator that will fit in my HAF-X

I pulled apart my 6990 watter block 13 times removing and adding pads when ever i got the vreg temps down the GPU temps would go very up at one point the dam GPU temp #3 went over 150c I ended up saying crikey hell did not care if it broke the card as long as I was dun with this crikey card and took all the pads off and put 3 full tubes of arctic silver 5 on the block it self


then terned the block over and sat it on the card and all the silver squwished out cleared up what I could then put it in my PC and what do you know the temps wer better then my good card and the temps are even better now the card has heeted up and cooled down
i think you should give those cards to me scince they reach 150C
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