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Drop In Waterblock for the Ivy/Sandy Bridge without the Tec Headaches - Page 20

post #191 of 235
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mindchi|l View Post

All Acrylic?


would there be a way to Frankenstein this,
with like,
an h100 or something similar,
to a GPU ?
like my gtx 670 for insistence?

also, ive been wondering if it is possible to like connect more than one closed loop cooler together,
i just dont wanna deal with a real full loop

anyways, im running a sandy i5-2500k, with a hyper212+ idles @ 33c (55c-60cmax @4.6ghz)
have an antec kuhler 620 dwood bracket strapped to an msi gtx670 idles @27c (41Cmaxload)

to cool 1 cpu and 1 or 2 gpu(s) mix matched with all in one coolers (2-3 h100's) would be neat as all hell
post #192 of 235
Quote:
Originally Posted by KuramaKitsune View Post

also, ive been wondering if it is possible to like connect more than one closed loop cooler together,
i just dont wanna deal with a real full loop

With the Corsair coolers what you are proposing would be way more work and hassle than just going for a custom loop in the first place. Seriously it would.

If you really want to go that route wait for the expandable AIO coolers, like the Swiftech H220.
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post #193 of 235
well any aio cooler, the h100 i just like the shape/size/and look
post #194 of 235
The TT Water2.0 Extreme is the best Closed Loop Cooler out there. The Rad is 34mm thick, about 50% thicker core than the H100. The stock fans are good too.
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post #195 of 235
first off congrats on this being such a hit!

just was stopping by to see if there was any progress on a solution to 2011 socket mounting? reading through the pages it seemed like something might have been in the works so i figured i would put the question out there for the rest of the 2011 users.
post #196 of 235
You do not want to run a TEC block with an AIO watercooler. You will get hotter temps then without the TEC.

TEC waterblocks need a lot of radiator space and good pumps to handle all the extra heat that needs to be dissipated. Keep in mind that your loop now has to cool all those watts from an OC'd CPU *plus* the wattage of the TEC on top of it.
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post #197 of 235
which is what, how much rad, 4x 120 ?
and mainly interested for a gpu anyhow.
post #198 of 235
I have the single TEC Arqtik block, not the big quad TEC one, and only have my CPU being cooled in the loop. Even with just the CPU block in the loop my water temp with a 3x120mm rad and 3 of the high end 38mm thick Delta fans is still ~8c over ambient with sustained load on the CPU. Ambient is measured with the bay probe in the Arqtik controller, and water temp is measured with a temp probe inside my res. Just having the CPU at idle(and TEC below 30% DC) keeps the water 5c over ambient...without the TEC it was only 1-2c over ambient at idle, and maybe 3c at load, so that is a healthy amount of extra heat in the loop. My idle water temps are now higher then my load ones were before the TEC.

I have a 2x140mm rad sitting in a drawer to add, hopefully that will bring the water temps down some, but in all honesty you can't really have "too much" rad with TECs. They add more heat then the chips they are cooling, PLUS the heat of the chip on top of that, so they are not the most efficient way to get low temps but they sure are fun. Eventually I plan to get an even bigger case(either an Elysium or just make one...) to run two 3x120s and the 2x140mm up front all in series. TECs work on a Delta, so the cooler you keep the water, the easier it the TEC can keep the cold side down.

For a GPU, your best bet is to run a chiller and use a prebuilt GPU waterblock. There are not any mass produced direct die TEC blocks for GPUs, so unless you can convince someone to make a custom one like Mindchill did (read: $$$), a chiller is the best way to chill a GPU.
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post #199 of 235
all i heard was, blah blah
3x120mm rad not quite enough for mystery cpu + tec with 3k+rpm fans
water temps slightly above ambient,

what is the core temp ?

the all important point of the whole project.
core temperatures.
dont care if im nearly boiling my rads,
if the core temp is lower than with no tec then i am winning.
albeit, im not cranking up 4 3k+ rpm fans at once, unless its in another room with a super long usb for my mouse / keyboard , and hdmi....

and if we are going that road, might as well just super extend the rad lines and leave em outside in the cold.
or better yet, use a spair entire car radiator.
Edited by KuramaKitsune - 1/8/13 at 9:49pm
post #200 of 235
Quote:
Originally Posted by KuramaKitsune View Post

all i heard was, blah blah
3x120mm rad not quite enough for mystery cpu + tec with 3k+rpm fans
water temps slightly above ambient,
what is the core temp ?
the all important point of the whole project.
core temperatures.
dont care if im nearly boiling my rads,
if the core temp is lower than with no tec then i am winning.
albeit, im not cranking up 4 3k+ rpm fans at once, unless its in another room with a super long usb for my mouse / keyboard , and hdmi....
and if we are going that road, might as well just super extend the rad lines and leave em outside in the cold.
or better yet, use a spair entire car radiator.

If that's all you heard then you have some serious reading comprehension issues laughingsmiley.gif.

Water temps are way above ambient. They were only 1c above idle and ~2-3c above full load before the TEC, now they are 5c above @ idle and 8-9c above during sustained load. That's a HUGE difference, not slight, and shows how much extra heat is added to a loop with even just a single TEC.

CPU is in sig, but instead of what CPU you should be asking whats the heat load. My OC'd processor is over 140watts, which is pretty close to the 150w rating of the SDD block. Core Temps are much better then water, but not where they would be with more rad. Limited by the humidity and dew point since I'm controlling it to prevent condensation, but with a "good" dew point I get ~26c idle and ~36c full load. Impressive considering thats similar heat output to a 4ghz 2500k @ 1.3v, and only on a single 3x120mm rad.

You DO care if you're "boiling your rads" since TECs are not some magical heat sucking device. They work on a temperature delta from one side to the other. IE, hot water on hot side=a much warmer cold side. You will end up with WORSE temps then plain water cooling by running a TEC without enough rad - or even worse, one of those AIO kits.

GL using a car rad. Have run reducing barbs from ~2" down to .5, using gallons and gallons of coolant, and finding a ~7,000LPH pump to move it all around thumb.gif.

Don't ask for help if you're going to disregard everything someone with experience says about it.
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