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Vortex of air in my tubing - Page 2

post #11 of 18
Thread Starter 
Okay. I'll slow the pump. Any tips on doing this? Speedfan confuses me as does the BIOS PWM settings. Also, EasyTune is easy to understand but doesn't appear to work.
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post #12 of 18
That looks bad ass! I'd keep it.
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post #13 of 18
It does look cool. Keep it!

I had that problem every time. As mentioned, rocking the case back and forth and side to side can help. With no PWM on the pump, unplugging it, waiting a few seconds, then plugging it back it helped too, it seems. Still say you should leave it, though....
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post #14 of 18
Quote:
Originally Posted by MKHunt;14624529 
Okay. I'll slow the pump. Any tips on doing this? Speedfan confuses me as does the BIOS PWM settings. Also, EasyTune is easy to understand but doesn't appear to work.

Easy tune worked for me when I had a gigabyte mobo. You may need to go into your bios settings and confirm there isn't any setting to turn PWM on/off for the CPU header (could only get easy tune PWM control to work on the CPU fan header, not the PWM chassis header).
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post #15 of 18
Im new to watercooling but I too have already seen this small bubble thing you speak of, If i created small kinks in the tubing elevated, this collected lots of the air. Also sqeezing the tubing next to my t-junction helped wonders, as it briefly directed flow up it smile.gif
 
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post #16 of 18
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by CesarNYC;14626235 
Easy tune worked for me when I had a gigabyte mobo. You may need to go into your bios settings and confirm there isn't any setting to turn PWM on/off for the CPU header (could only get easy tune PWM control to work on the CPU fan header, not the PWM chassis header).

Yeah these GB Z68 mobos, especially with the new BIOS, are a nightmare. It was pushing the CPU at 1.3771V for 4.4GHz no matter what settings I had in the BIOS unless they were on Auto where it maxes at 1.296V for 4.4GHZ. Similarly, when I first installed my loop and was running the BIOS that came on the board, PWM worked. Now that I have updated, the same settings as when it worked run the pump at full-tilt.
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post #17 of 18
I wouldn't have paired a 35x with a bay res... anyways this trick should help ya bleed it.

http://www.overclock.net/water-cooling/831409-guide-how-quickly-bleed-xspc-reservoir.html
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post #18 of 18
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by tsm106;14635854 
I wouldn't have paired a 35x with a bay res... anyways this trick should help ya bleed it.

http://www.overclock.net/water-cooling/831409-guide-how-quickly-bleed-xspc-reservoir.html

It's definitely overkill for the loop and bay res wasn't my first choice but I love the case and that's all that would work and still let me have closer to the amount of rad I wanted.

It's funny that you mention that as I ran that for a couple days and it got most of the bubbles out. However as the bubbles left the pressure seemed to increase and quickly it was rising ~.5" out of the res cradled by the tube. At that point I prayed to any deity that would listen, asking that the water wouldn't run back towards my gfx card or fall down to the SSD underneath as I wept like a child and dispensed a large amount of paper towels.

The 35x is much too strong for the amount of restriction I have, but it's my first loop and I wanted to make sure I'd have enough power. In retrospect, a 655 vario would have been a better choice.
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