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38mm fan on top of a 25mm fan + fan controller - Page 2

post #11 of 26
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by KhaoticKomputing View Post
If your looking for the "Jesus" of 38mm fans look no further than this bad boy

Only cheap fans will click when undervolting. I use 2 of the above linked fan's on my Silver Arrow. I also Use Rheosmart to undervolt them. Never once have I hread a click,growl,howl,hiss,chirp, beep or any other odd noise from them and they have ran 24/7 undervolted from almost 8mo now. The controller is a hoss at handling uber powerd fans. Durring testing I ran both San Ace 1011's +7 120mm 70+CFM fans off ONE CHANNEL(all fans at 100% power). I did this for like almost a week befor deciding to call this controller "Hoss". In my rig I almost never run my San Ace's at 100% becouse that's just plain silly. I keep them at around 80-ish and have amazing cooling on my chip. I hope this helps. and dont buy Kaze ultra, they suck.
Also, why a 38mm fan if I may ask. In a perfect world you would use AP-29's or AP-30's. If you realy want to go nucking futs with wind power AP-31's.

38mm fans provide high static pressure, this works best when paired with a water cooling rad, for an Air cooler 25mm's are fine. Hope this helps out some cheer's!
Funny... You are 100% correct about the Scythe Ultra Kazes! I actually had a bunch of 1000, 2000, and 3000s. They were the ones that made the clicking noise. I also had Deltas fans which were much better than the Ultra Kazes. I didn't like the sounds of any of them, so I sold them all here on OCN.net. I've actually being going crazy buying fans different fans to see how they're like...

I actually bought 3 AP-29s and 1 AP-30 and mistakenly thought they were 38mm fans. They're 25mm, which is awesome

Just out of curiosity, how much can you undervolt that San Ace?



--------


I read conflicting views about push and pull fans.
1) Both should be the same fan
2) The pull fan should be stronger
3) The push fan should be stronger

I want to use the AP-30 and AP-29 on my 212+. Which should be the pull and which should be the push fan? Please back up your statements.
    
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post #12 of 26
Quote:
Originally Posted by listen to remix View Post
I read conflicting views about push and pull fans.
1) Both should be the same fan
2) The pull fan should be stronger
3) The push fan should be stronger
It depends. Source: Conservation of mass. Mass flow rate in = mass flow rate out

--If no air can come in the sides: equal power. The only air that can be exhausted is air that's been pushed in.
--Real world 2 and 3 should be identical. Any difference will be within the margin of error of the measurements being taken. Since air can enter and leave the sides of the HSF the more fans the better because whatever air doesn't enter/exit a fan will enter/exit the sides.
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post #13 of 26
I wanna say somewhere around 45-55% they shut off. but I have no real way of telling at this time
When doing push/pull both fans should be the same fan, and in a perferct world you would run them off the same header with a splitter if your mobo/fan controller can support that amp's needed(with 38mm/high power fans a controller is always a safer option IMO).
That way you know that both blade's are getting the same power, and spin at the same rate, if one fan is overpowering another it can cause the fan to fail/wear out faster. With air cooled heat sinks you want a nice smoth even flow over the fins, that will dissipate the most heat...To much fan will actually lower the cooler's abillity to remove heat. When I ran test's a while back I found that the CM 212+ can only handle about 80CFM or so befor your just wasting juice on a spiffy fan..

Basicly if you want to take advantage of those beefy fans you must have a LARGE cooler, with massive fin's. the bigger the fins the better the high CFM fans will work, if you have smaller fins/heatpipe's, with small gaps between them the high powerd fans just make turbulance, reducing the ability to cool. Long story short, my San Ace's drop more temps off my silver arrow than they did my Coolermaster Hyper 212+.
Edited by KhaoticKomputing - 8/18/11 at 9:13am
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post #14 of 26
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by CTRLurself [Knyte Custom] View Post
It depends. Source: Conservation of mass. Mass flow rate in = mass flow rate out

--If no air can come in the sides: equal power. The only air that can be exhausted is air that's been pushed in.
--Real world 2 and 3 should be identical. Any difference will be within the margin of error of the measurements being taken. Since air can enter and leave the sides of the HSF the more fans the better because whatever air doesn't enter/exit a fan will enter/exit the sides.


Quote:
Originally Posted by KhaoticKomputing View Post
I wanna say somewhere around 45-55% they shut off. but I have no real way of telling at this time
When doing push/pull both fans should be the same fan, and in a perferct world you would run them off the same header with a splitter if your mobo/fan controller can support that amp's needed(with 38mm/high power fans a controller is always a safer option IMO).

That way you know that both blade's are getting the same power, and spin at the same rate, if one fan is overpowering another it can cause the fan to fail/wear out faster. With air cooled heat sinks you want a nice smoth even flow over the fins, that will dissipate the most heat...To much fan will actually lower the cooler's abillity to remove heat. When I ran test's a while back I found that the CM 212+ can only handle about 80CFM or so befor your just wasting juice on a spiffy fan..

Basicly if you want to take advantage of those beefy fans you must have a LARGE cooler, with massive fin's. the bigger the fins the better the high CFM fans will work, if you have smaller fins/heatpipe's, with small gaps between them the high powerd fans just make turbulance, reducing the ability to cool. Long story short, my San Ace's drop more temps off my silver arrow than they did my Coolermaster Hyper 212+.
So, I'm guessing that the AP-29s are perfect for the Hyper 212+ b/c they output 83 CFM

The fan says it's only .22A which is pretty low. Purely on that spec, I believe I could plug this into a motherboard header safely. BUT, when I see and hear the fan running...I am very scared to do so lol

So... I'm going to put the...

2 AP-29 onto Hyper 212+

1 AP-30 as a front intake. 116.5 CFM
1 AP-29 as back exhaust 83 CFM
2 Noctua 140mm fans as top exhaust 65CFM

116.5 - 83 = 33.5/2=16.75

I want a positive air flow case to reduce dust...

Should I...

A) Slow down the 140mm fans to ~15 CFM? It seems like a huge waste of good 140mm fans to slow them down that much.

B) Set one 140mm as an intake and add a fan filter on top? It will look kind of weird with one fan filter on top of the case.

Here are photos of the case on Newegg:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...ZXT-_-11146058
    
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post #15 of 26
AP-XX are great fans. and yea the 29's are about perfect for CM 212 IMO. I have a positive pressure case. I use the CM 690II. I have 0 dust problems, its kinda sweet.

Can you give me more info on your rig? like your GPU dose it exhaust inside the case, or outside. what about the PSU, where is that fan moving air two?

in mine, my PSU pulls air from out side the bottom of the case, and vents it out the back. My GPU vents outside the case. I removed my PCI slot covers in exchange for "mesh" or free flow ones. All other fans are intake, I have not a single fan working as exhaust. For the top fans, I blocked of the Rear most Top mounted fan location, and in the forward one I placed an Intake. this feeds my CPU cooler cool fresh air.
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post #16 of 26
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by KhaoticKomputing View Post
AP-XX are great fans. and yea the 29's are about perfect for CM 212 IMO. I have a positive pressure case. I use the CM 690II. I have 0 dust problems, its kinda sweet.

Can you give me more info on your rig? like your GPU dose it exhaust inside the case, or outside. what about the PSU, where is that fan moving air two?

in mine, my PSU pulls air from out side the bottom of the case, and vents it out the back. My GPU vents outside the case. I removed my PCI slot covers in exchange for "mesh" or free flow ones. All other fans are intake, I have not a single fan working as exhaust. For the top fans, I blocked of the Rear most Top mounted fan location, and in the forward one I placed an Intake. this feeds my CPU cooler cool fresh air.

The GPU has an exhaust cooler. My case has mesh/free flow slot covers. I just realized I have another intake fan on the side of the case.

I decided not to use the AP-30 b/c it was too loud and it does a faint clicking noise when it is slowed down.

I am wondering if I should even use a back exhaust fan.
    
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post #17 of 26
you shouldnt use a back exhaust fan, just cut out the grill of your case
   
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post #18 of 26
I use no Exhaust fan in my PP case I know for a fact that AP-29/30/31's will not click unless they are defective. I have heard many of these fans undervolted and they made no clicking.

So, If your going to try to undervolt these High power fans to make they silent, Why not go with some of these great fans.
This CM R4 Is a nifty little fan(I also know for a fact they make no odd noise when undervolted). Comes with a 4-pin PWM power plug. This allows your mobo to controll the RPM's of the fan based on the temp of the CPU. if you pair it with This or this you could run ALL your case fans off the PWM function, meaning All fans turn down when the CPU is not under load, put the CPU under load and they will rise up some. Then toss a Sliver Arrow or D-14 on your CPU and enjoy a well chilled PC That will make very little noise.

There are also many more 120x25mm fans that will more than cool your PC without needing to be undervolted as much as the larger fans. the holy grail of silent performance is the AP-15's and under. with the AP-14's/15's being the most sought after.
Edited by KhaoticKomputing - 8/18/11 at 8:38pm
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post #19 of 26
i can speak for the r4 as i have 4 of them and all on fan controllers and usually run at the lowest speed and no clicking noise
   
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post #20 of 26
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by KhaoticKomputing View Post
I use no Exhaust fan in my PP case I know for a fact that AP-29/30/31's will not click unless they are defective. I have heard many of these fans undervolted and they made no clicking.

So, If your going to try to undervolt these High power fans to make they silent, Why not go with some of these great fans.
This CM R4 Is a nifty little fan(I also know for a fact they make no odd noise when undervolted). Comes with a 4-pin PWM power plug. This allows your mobo to controll the RPM's of the fan based on the temp of the CPU. if you pair it with This or this you could run ALL your case fans off the PWM function, meaning All fans turn down when the CPU is not under load, put the CPU under load and they will rise up some. Then toss a Sliver Arrow or D-14 on your CPU and enjoy a well chilled PC That will make very little noise.

There are also many more 120x25mm fans that will more than cool your PC without needing to be undervolted as much as the larger fans. the holy grail of silent performance is the AP-15's and under. with the AP-14's/15's being the most sought after.
That's funny b/c I just sold my AP-14/AP-15s AND two Cooler Master R4 fans. The AP-14 and 15s are definitely wonderful fans. The Cooler Master is pretty loud at full load. They sound as loud as the AP-29s. They are great at low speeds though

I'm using 2 AP-29s on my 212+ now. 1 AP-29 as front case intake. 1 AP-14 as side intake. 2 140mm Noctuas as top exhausts.


Quote:
Originally Posted by chinesethunda View Post
i can speak for the r4 as i have 4 of them and all on fan controllers and usually run at the lowest speed and no clicking noise
Any reason why you chose R4s with PWM and then plugged them into fan controllers?
Edited by listen to remix - 8/29/11 at 9:15pm
    
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