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How to install OS on M4?

post #1 of 36
Thread Starter 
Hi. I'm planning to get Crutial M4 128GB as the boot drive.
I'm going to clean install Win7. (no transferring files at all.)
Is there anything I have to do different than I normally install on regular HDD?
Should I format it in Win7 first before install new win7?
Should I update the firmware first? (If it has older version)
I just don't know what the best step-by-step OS installation on SSD.
Thanks for the help in advance.
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post #2 of 36
Any M4's made within the last 2 or so months will come with the latest (0002) firmware already installed, especially if you buy from newegg, just cause I bet they have to reorder more M4's like daily lol. But, no installing on an SSD is just like installing on a HDD. Just read the sticky post and you should be golden.
post #3 of 36
I have the same question too.
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post #4 of 36
1. When you install the SSD, only have that drive plugged into your comp so things work out properly.
2. It's a new drive, so there's no need to format it as it's already empty, so just go ahead and install Win7.
(Don't let your PC connect to the internet as to prevent MS from installing bad default drivers by itself)
3. The new drive should already have the latest revision (just like morg said) as did mine 2 days ago, but just to make sure check with CrystalDiskInfo or something.
If it was some old drive, you might want to get it exchanged for a newer manufactured one at this point. You also could just flash the firmware up.
4. Now follow this: http://forum.notebookreview.com/soli...es-thread.html
to disable LPM in the registry, which is likely to be necessary to fix the M4's stuttering/hanging issues.
5. Then I recommend following this guide:
http://www.overclock.net/ssd/664738-...secondary.html
from this point on, because you obviously don't want to fill up the SSD.

If I'm rambling about something I actually mistaken about, someone more knowledgeable, please correct me. :s
post #5 of 36
lolwut:



Horribly off topic, but I couldn't help myself.
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post #6 of 36
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by BPK View Post
1. When you install the SSD, only have that drive plugged into your comp so things work out properly.
2. It's a new drive, so there's no need to format it as it's already empty, so just go ahead and install Win7.
(Don't let your PC connect to the internet as to prevent MS from installing bad default drivers by itself)
3. The new drive should already have the latest revision (just like morg said) as did mine 2 days ago, but just to make sure check with CrystalDiskInfo or something.
If it was some old drive, you might want to get it exchanged for a newer manufactured one at this point. You also could just flash the firmware up.
4. Now follow this: http://forum.notebookreview.com/soli...es-thread.html
to disable LPM in the registry, which is likely to be necessary to fix the M4's stuttering/hanging issues.
5. Then I recommend following this guide:
http://www.overclock.net/ssd/664738-...secondary.html
from this point on, because you obviously don't want to fill up the SSD.

If I'm rambling about something I actually mistaken about, someone more knowledgeable, please correct me. :s
Cool. thanks. This is what I wanted to know.
So the No.4 regedit is really necessary on M4?
Or is this like "don't fix it unless you have problem" kind of thing?
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post #7 of 36
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by HWI View Post
lolwut:



Horribly off topic, but I couldn't help myself.
I have dedicated audio machine (mac) with Protools (digi002) set up just for the music editing and listening purpose.
I'm a professional recording engineer so I only use studios to record and mix, though.
PC is for my hobby.
So the home audio rig I have is strictly for editing and listening purpose.
Unless I spent another $1000 or so for audio interface for PC, on-board sound is enough.
Getting anything less or in between, like soundblaster and stuff is a totally waste anyway.
(For music that is. For game, anything is fine. Since who cares about total harmonic distortion, signal to noise ratio and D/A quality for explosion/gun sounds in game!?!? )
Edited by Tunagoblin - 8/18/11 at 12:48pm
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post #8 of 36
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tunagoblin View Post
(For music that is. For game, anything is fine. Since who cares about total harmonic distortion, signal to noise ratio and D/A quality for explosion/gun sounds in game!?!? )
Positional audio man. X-Fi's got in the bag.
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post #9 of 36
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by HWI View Post
Positional audio man. X-Fi's got in the bag.
Those are all consumer level of stuff. All about marketing.
What it does is just shifting the phase of the 2 or more signals that making you feel like something is happening around you.
(to me it doesn't... it just sounds like phasing and phase cancellation with some EQ on it...)
It's just a toy.

If you really want to have the best positional audio, you need to be in the acoustically treated room (no sound reflections from walls and ceiling, just like a control room in professional recording studios) and you need to be in the sweet listening spot (equal distance from all the speakers and speakers has to be at your ear level).
In those environment, you only need 2 channels to tell all the positional information unless the source material is in 5.1+ channels.
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post #10 of 36
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tunagoblin View Post
Those are all consumer level of stuff. All about marketing.
What it does is just shifting the phase of the 2 or more signals that making you feel like something is happening around you.
(to me it doesn't... it just sounds like phasing and phase cancellation with some EQ on it...)
It's just a toy.

If you really want to have the best positional audio, you need to be in the acoustically treated room (no sound reflections from walls and ceiling, just like a control room in professional recording studios) and you need to be in the sweet listening spot (equal distance from all the speakers and speakers has to be at your ear level).
In those environment, you only need 2 channels to tell all the positional information unless the source material is in 5.1+ channels.
Having gamed on integrated, Xonar, X-Fi, and some older Creative sound cards, I must 100% disagree with you that it's marketing. The X-Fi definitely produces superior positional sound on headphones (that's all I game on so I can't comment on speakers) for games than anything else I have used. I get way more accurate feel for steps, gun firing, etc in games like BC2 and CS:S with my Prelude than with the other cards.
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