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worth going from my IPS to a CRT for comp gaming. - Page 2

post #11 of 26
Not sure what you'll be able to get for 200-300.

Good CRTs are in very high demand relative to their minuscule supply, and I my self almost dropped a grand on a factory sealed Sony GDM-FW900 a short while ago. I would have gone for it if I didn't move around so much.
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post #12 of 26
Thread Starter 
well i dont need top end for my esea-O level of gaming but i do see fw900's around 300-400 quite a bit on ebay.
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post #13 of 26
Quote:
Originally Posted by De-Zant View Post
Not very sure from that info. Is that not the curved 24" WS tube that can only do 1920x1200 on 75hz?

I would much more recommend some flat 21"ers if they are available, and they usually are.
It's the Sun branded Sony W900

@OP If you decide you want perfectly flat there are plenty in your area on craigslist. They will also be under $50

I would at least check out the Sun branded w900 though. Just make sure it can get the refresh/resolution you are looking for.
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post #14 of 26
why the hell would you game on a crt lol, those things were replaced with LDC/LED for a reason.
post #15 of 26
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tunapiano View Post
why the hell would you game on a crt lol, those things were replaced with LDC/LED for a reason.
LCDs replaced them because they took up alot less space and didn't weight 80+ lbs. A good CRT however trumps a LCD in color reproduction, image quality, resolution, refresh rates, and response time (which is why alot of including gamers still use CRTs). LCDs weren't a very worthy succesor to CRTs because they're pretty much worse. OLED displays would have been better though, as they have the best colors out of all the display types.
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post #16 of 26
There are two schools of thought when it comes to buying CRTs.

Option 1 is to just get the best condition CRT you can for $20 or so. There are plenty of them on craigslist and in garage sales. I highly doubt you'll find anything spectacular at this price, but you'll still get the benefit of having no lag, no ghosting, and (if you're lucky) some pretty good refresh rates.

Option 2 is to buy a top of the line one - an FW900 (not a W900), F520, C520k, or a Diamondtron (I can never remember the model numbers for those for some reason). The FW900 is usually everyone's favorite pick because of it's 16:10 aspect ratio and 2560x1600 max resolution, but the 4:3 models have slightly better refresh rates. You can end up paying as much as $400-$500 shipped for one of these, but IMO they're worth every penny.

Whatever you end up getting, watch out for the telltale signs of a dying tube: a very dim picture, a greenish tint, or a very long warmup time (the time between pushing the power button and the screen reaching full brightness). Those are the three most important things to avoid, because they mean that the tube itself is dying; it's the only part of the CRT that you can't fix or replace. Anything else is either due to miscalibration or to a bad electric component, either of which can be fixed. Some components are harder to replace than others (such as the flyback), and if you're buying a $20 cheap-o unit it's not even worth the effort, but they're still fixable nonetheless.
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post #17 of 26

input lag is personal. some ppl notice it, most ppl dont. competitive gamers probably do.

there's input lag going on from cpu, keyboard, mouse, monitor, servers, distance from isp etc...

there's also the human input lag... and we all react differently..




















so i think this question cannot be answered by anyone else but you, the hardware/software/drivers/game and service you have.



Edited by Remix65 - 8/20/11 at 12:57pm
    
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post #18 of 26
Quote:
Originally Posted by Manyak View Post
The FW900 is usually everyone's favorite pick because of it's 16:10 aspect ratio and 2560x1600 max resolution, but the 4:3 models have slightly better refresh rates.
It's top resolution is 2304x1440 (16:10 1440p). It's recommended resolution (most realistic practical for desktop use) is 1920x1200 @85Hz.

If you've ever had a good 21" or 22" aperture grille with a decent tube and could do up to 2048x1536, those were up there as the better ones and would give you an idea. The GDM FW900 was about the same thing with a 16:10 wider aspect ratio.
post #19 of 26
Quote:
Originally Posted by Princess Garnet View Post
It's top resolution is 2304x1440 (16:10 1440p). It's recommended resolution (most realistic practical for desktop use) is 1920x1200 @85Hz.

If you've ever had a good 21" or 22" aperture grille with a decent tube and could do up to 2048x1536, those were up there as the better ones and would give you an idea. The GDM FW900 was about the same thing with a 16:10 wider aspect ratio.
That's the max "official" resolution, but you can go up to 2560x1600 if you set it manually as a custom resolution through your video card drivers.
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post #20 of 26
I never knew of that. You'll be pushing your tube harder than it was meant though so you'll get an earlier death. It's generally hard enough to find guaranteed good all around tubes that aren't aged much as it is, especially on a GDM FW900, so I wouldn't be so willing to do that myself after dropping a couple hundred on it, but to each their own.
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