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Good scenery lense and SA mount?

post #1 of 13
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Hi guys! I recently got back into photography and started to use my Sigma SD10 a bit more. I felt like taking landscape shots so I tried it. It feels okay, but I feel like I am in need of a wider lens.

I have no idea what any of this means, but I am going to copy exactly what it says on the lens ring: "Sigma Zoom 18-200mm 1:3.5-6.3 DC" Lens here

Can you guys explain all this here? I really don't know what this all means. xD
And what is a good lens from Canon or Sigma? I really don't know what fits with the SD10 cause on the website, it says it uses the special SA mount exclusive to Sigma. Are there lenses that use this? if not, is there an adapter for it?
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post #2 of 13
To answer back to front, I don't think they make an adapter to use Canon lenses on your camera. I believe they do make one to use your lenses on a Canon body though.

The markings on your lens are the focal length and aperture range.

It is a zoom lens that goes from 18mm to 200mm, and has a maximum aperture of 3.5 to 6.3 along that zoom range. In other words, you can shoot at f3.5 when at 18mm and f6.3 at 200mm.

In simple terms, the longer the focal length, the closer things appear to be. The larger the aperture (or the smaller the f#), the more light can get to the sensor in a given amount of time (your shutter speed or exposure time).

Hope this helps,

Rich

Edit: I may be incorrect about the adapter. The wiki for it says that Canon EF lenses will work and retain autofocus and aperture control. However, other than this reference (and we know how accurate Wikipedia is ), I can't find said adapter. FWIW I do remember when this camera came out and the talk about the Foveon sensor. I was already deeply immersed in the Canon sub-culture at this point and didn't consider it.
Edited by Lost Hawaiian - 8/22/11 at 4:12pm
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post #3 of 13
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Lost Hawaiian View Post
To answer back to front, I don't think they make an adapter to use Canon lenses on your camera. I believe they do make one to use your lenses on a Canon body though.

The markings on your lens are the focal length and aperture range.

It is a zoom lens that goes from 18mm to 200mm, and has a maximum aperture of 3.5 to 6.3 along that zoom range. In other words, you can shoot at f3.5 when at 18mm and f6.3 at 200mm.

In simple terms, the longer the focal length, the closer things appear to be. The larger the aperture (or the smaller the f#), the more light can get to the sensor in a given amount of time (your shutter speed or exposure time).

Hope this helps,

Rich

Edit: I may be incorrect about the adapter. The wiki for it says that Canon EF lenses will work and retain autofocus and aperture control. However, other than this reference (and we know how accurate Wikipedia is ), I can't find said adapter. FWIW I do remember when this camera came out and the talk about the Foveon sensor. I was already deeply immersed in the Canon sub-culture at this point and didn't consider it.


Sweet. At least I have a slight hope I can uses Canon lenses (Yay for more lenses to choose from!) But is it okay of you explain the aperture and F# thing? Still kinda lost in that concept. ;o
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post #4 of 13
Quote:
Originally Posted by grandestfail9190 View Post
Sweet. At least I have a slight hope I can uses Canon lenses (Yay for more lenses to choose from!) But is it okay of you explain the aperture and F# thing? Still kinda lost in that concept. ;o
No problem...

Photography is all about light. In order to create an image, light reflected from your subject, hits the film (or sensor in the case of digital) and is captured. In order to make sure the correct amount of light hits the sensor to produce an image, you adjust 2 basic things. There are actually more, but we won't get into that right now.

The 2 parameters you can adjust are how much light is coming in (aperture) and how long it's hitting it (exposure time controlled by your shutter curtain passing over the sensor plane).

Think of your picture as a bathtub. You use a hose to fill it. In order to fill it for a perfect bath (properly exposed picture), it needs to be filled 75% of the way. How fast it fills to the proper level depends on 2 things (assuming constant water flow), the diameter of the hose (aperture) and how long it's turned on (shutter speed). You can use a really big hose and turn it on for just a moment or you can use a small hose and keep it turned on for a long time. If either one is off a little bit, your picture won't be properly exposed (there is a bit of leeway here), or in our example, you might get in the tub and the water overflows or doesn't cover you.

Now this is simplified to an almost ridiculous point, but it shows that aperture and shutter speed are inversely proportional. There are other factors such as ISO which basically determines how fast the sensor gathers light.

Aperture is measured in "f-stops". You may see odd f-stops, such as with your lens' f3.5 and f6.3. The reason I say odd is because they are partial stops. Each full f-stop going up in number allows twice the amount of light to pass through as the one below it. Full f-stops start at 1.0 and go up by multiplying by the square root of 2 (or roughly 1.4). So 1.0, 1.4, 2.0, 2.8, 4.0, 5.6, 8, 11, 16, etc.

Back in the film days, we used to use the "Sunny 16" rule, where you would set your aperture at f16 and shutter speed would be the inverse of your film speed. So if you're out shooting ASA (ISO nowadays) 50 film, you would set your camera to f16 at 1/50 of a second. If you wanted to shoot something moving and needed a faster shutter speed you would dial one up and one down accordingly, so f11@1/100, f8@1/200, f5.6@1/400, etc.

Now you might think that it would always be better to use that big hose, but there are penalties if you do. Larger apertures (smaller f#'s) cause a smaller depth of field (the range from the focal plane that is in focus) and less saturation of colors.

On the other side of the coin, smaller f-stops have penalties too. With digital, you run into diffraction, which will cause soft (out of focus) shots. This can become a problem when you go above around f16 (YMMV).

Hope this helps,

Rich
Edited by Lost Hawaiian - 8/22/11 at 4:41pm
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post #5 of 13
The sa mount is a modified ef canon mount. With that said I have no idea how to mount ef to sa. But sigma makes a bunch of high quality stuff.
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post #6 of 13
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Lost Hawaiian View Post
No problem...

Photography is all about light. In order to create an image, light reflected from your subject, hits the film (or sensor in the case of digital) and is captured. In order to make sure the correct amount of light hits the sensor to produce an image, you adjust 2 basic things. There are actually more, but we won't get into that right now.

The 2 parameters you can adjust are how much light is coming in (aperture) and how long it's hitting it (exposure time controlled by your shutter curtain passing over the sensor plane).

Think of your picture as a bathtub. You use a hose to fill it. In order to fill it for a perfect bath (properly exposed picture), it needs to be filled 75% of the way. How fast it fills to the proper level depends on 2 things (assuming constant water flow), the diameter of the hose (aperture) and how long it's turned on (shutter speed). You can use a really big hose and turn it on for just a moment or you can use a small hose and keep it turned on for a long time. If either one is off a little bit, your picture won't be properly exposed (there is a bit of leeway here), or in our example, you might get in the tub and the water overflows or doesn't cover you.

Now this is simplified to an almost ridiculous point, but it shows that aperture and shutter speed are inversely proportional. There are other factors such as ISO which basically determines how fast the sensor gathers light.

Aperture is measured in "f-stops". You may see odd f-stops, such as with your lens' f3.5 and f6.3. The reason I say odd is because they are partial stops. Each full f-stop going up in number allows twice the amount of light to pass through as the one below it. Full f-stops start at 1.0 and go up by multiplying by the square root of 2 (or roughly 1.4). So 1.0, 1.4, 2.0, 2.8, 4.0, 5.6, 8, 11, 16, etc.

Back in the film days, we used to use the "Sunny 16" rule, where you would set your aperture at f16 and shutter speed would be the inverse of your film speed. So if you're out shooting ASA (ISO nowadays) 50 film, you would set your camera to f16 at 1/50 of a second. If you wanted to shoot something moving and needed a faster shutter speed you would dial one up and one down accordingly, so f11@1/100, f8@1/200, f5.6@1/400, etc.

Now you might think that it would always be better to use that big hose, but there are penalties if you do. Larger apertures (smaller f#'s) cause a smaller depth of field (the range from the focal plane that is in focus) and less saturation of colors.

On the other side of the coin, smaller f-stops have penalties too. With digital, you run into diffraction, which will cause soft (out of focus) shots. This can become a problem when you go above around f16 (YMMV).

Hope this helps,

Rich
Bathtub explanation win. So basically, Aperture and Shutter Speed is like Clock speed and Voltage in a CPU right? Have to get that perfect amount?

And what do you mean by diffraction?


I have a few sample pictures of a sunset while on a cruise. I'll upload them in a bit.
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post #7 of 13
Quote:
Originally Posted by grandestfail9190 View Post
Bathtub explanation win. So basically, Aperture and Shutter Speed is like Clock speed and Voltage in a CPU right? Have to get that perfect amount?
Pretty much...although those both tend to go up together.

I hate to say it on this site, but I know waaaay more about photography than I do overclocking...

Rich
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post #8 of 13
Aperature and shutter is more like fsb and multiplier. Diffraction is simply a lost of image quality, because the Aperature is too "small"
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post #9 of 13
Diffraction...okay...

This is harder to explain...it has to do with the nature of light waves trying to pass through a smaller opening.

To go back to the bathtub example. Think of yourself playing in the tub. You put up a board with a hole in it across the width of the tub. If the hole is big and you push a wave through it, the wave will be more "intact" after passing through. The smaller the hole, the more the wave breaks up and makes smaller waves out the backside.

With light, this causes your pictures to lose resolution or sharpness.

Try looking at something in the distance with your eyes wide open. If you vision is good (in focus), you should see a sharp image. Then look at the same object with your eyes almost all the way closed. It probably loses some of it's sharpness, right? That's diffraction.

Again, this is really over-simplifying things, so I don't want any physicists jumping my case.

Rich
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post #10 of 13
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Lost Hawaiian View Post
Diffraction...okay...

This is harder to explain...it has to do with the nature of light waves trying to pass through a smaller opening.

To go back to the bathtub example. Think of yourself playing in the tub. You put up a board with a hole in it across the width of the tub. If the hole is big and you push a wave through it, the wave will be more "intact" after passing through. The smaller the hole, the more the wave breaks up and makes smaller waves out the backside.

With light, this causes your pictures to lose resolution or sharpness.

Try looking at something in the distance with your eyes wide open. If you vision is good (in focus), you should see a sharp image. Then look at the same object with your eyes almost all the way closed. It probably loses some of it's sharpness, right? That's diffraction.

Again, this is really over-simplifying things, so I don't want any physicists jumping my case.

Rich
Nice. xD Thanks for the info. Simplicity at it's finest.
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