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The Official Cooler Master Storm Trooper / Storm Stryker Club - Page 1012

post #10111 of 12520
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ne1ld0 View Post


Here is some detailed info for you guys with step-by-step instructions on EL wire for the Storm Trooper and Stryker cases and some info on I/O panel LEDs:

Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
First up, replacing the power light LEDs:

I bought my two green 3mm LEDs from FrozenCPU.com.

I replaced the two 3mm red LEDs for the power button with green ones. Also, I didn't really solder the new LEDs into place since I suck at soldering so changing these without soldering them is a breeze.

What I did was unscrew the screws holding the I/O circuit board down, pushed all the wires going to the I/O circuit board up towards it to give me enough room to pull it out and flipped over without having to unconnect any of those wires, got myself a soldering iron for $4 at Harbor Freight, let soldering iron heat up, used it to heat up the solder on the back of the red LEDs with one hand while other hand pulled the red LEDs out to remove them.

With red LEDs removed, you will notice on I/O circuit board a small + (positive side) on the right side holes. Now the wires on your new LEDs will probably be much longer than the tiny ones on red LEDs. This does not matter, I did not make any changes to these longer wires. You will notice that one of these wires on new LEDs is longer than the other. Longer wire = + (positive side) and goes in hole on the right.

I had trouble getting new LEDs into the holes simply because some of the solder left over from red LEDs had hardened back up and covered the holes slightly. This is no big deal. If you run into this problem, simply reheat that solder, even placing tip of soldering iron into holes if necessary. While I reheated this left over solder, I also pushed LEDs wires through holes. Once fully into place, I held LEDs in place with one hand and bent wires downward on the backside with other hand. With wires bent, I used electrical tape to hold them down. Made sure tape did not cover that U shaped area at the very top between power LEDs cause thats where power button is located.

Flipped it back over, and tested it. Everything worked so I just reassembled it all.

Maybe not the best way to go about it, but it works, is simple, and cheap.

On a side note, the power and HDD indicator LEDs are also 3mm in size.

Second up, replacing the tiny fan controller LEDs:

Before starting into this subject, I have not done this yet. I have been doing a lot of research into this and have been talking to 2 members who have replaced these and this is what both of them told me:

"theyre 3 individual SMDs i soldered on, i got them from alliedelec.com website, the 3mm ones.

http://www.alliedelec.com/search/productdetail.aspx?SKU=70062856

heres where i got em from. 3.2mm x 1.6mm"


After messaging both of these members, both of them got their LEDs from this website. Of course these do require soldering to replace. I did end up buying these tiny LEDs, but because they are so tiny I haven't gotten the courage yet to even try to replace these little bastards.

Third up, EL Wire Mod Tutorial:

Before we begin, I will warn you that power inverters that are required to light up the EL wire do make a slightly high pitch noise when in use. Because this noise can be annoying, I recommend installing a PCI-slot rocker switch to turn EL Wire on/off. I really only turn mine on to show off. I have bought sound dampening foam and surrounded my power inverter with it and it honestly didn't help much. I will say that I use headphones pretty much all the time on my PC and I can't here the inverter noise with them on. Oh, I also bought all my EL Wire stuff from ELWirePros.com.

Here we go:

I did notice I forgot to mention in the video the VERY FIRST STEP which is to remove the bottom fan w/ hard cage and the side brackets that hold it in place. You must remove these in order to take off the front plastic cover.

I've also added an updated text version of all the steps required to do this mod below.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=niFwIio0Stc&feature=player_embedded

What you need to do this EL Wire mod:

a molex power connector with a power switch and a 2-pin locking connector attached (most power inverters I found have an option to buy a molex power connector with it and the 2-pin locking connector. It is the same type that Cooler Master uses for the LED on/off ability on the built-in fan controller. I did not like the on/off switch my molex power connector came with so I bought a PCI slot rocker switch which works great!)

a power inverter rated for the amount of feet you are using or more (if you plan on using super bright EL wire like I did, you'll need to take the amount of feet you used and double that for the power inverter rating. I am using a sound controlled inverter that has a constant on, sound controlled, and off ability. It is rated for 10 to 60 feet. Personally, I recommend a sound controlled one.)

EL Wire with quick-connectors already attached so you won't have to solder on connectors. They make it easy to just plug in and use. These quick-connectors are 2-pin locking connectors again just like Cooler Master's LED connectors.

For more than one EL Wire and most likely you'll want to use more than one, you'll need to get a 2-pin locking connector splitter, also called an EL Wire splitter on most sites. I am using one splitter where I can hook up to 5 EL Wires with it.

Super Glue to help hold EL Wire in place. I recommend glue that dries clear and has a tiny nozzle on it to get into the grooves. I used Krazy Glue Advanced Formula. It comes in a small bottle, but was more than enough.

If you plan on adding an EL Wire to the top outer groove, you will need a drill and a 7/64" bit for 2.6mm diameter EL wire to drill a tiny hole in the groove where it ends on the right hand side. This way all your wired connections can be with all your other wires on that side of the case. Also you'll want to drill that hole at an angle so wire won't have to come straight out and bend at an ugly 90 angle.

EL Wire Sizes:

All the EL Wire I used is 2.6mm in diameter and the lengths are as follows:

2 vertical wires on front are 2 feet long (this gives you a bit extra to make it easy to make connections by the right side panel)

2 small horizontal wires on front near the top are 1 foot long (again plenty extra to make connections easy),

1 wire at the very top on mine is 9 feet long cause I used it to outline around the edges of all 3 mesh vents, using tiny zip ties, and then through the tiny hole I drilled to the outside groove. If you plan on using wire in just the groove, you'll need to measure just the groove and add a foot to that measurement to have plenty extra for wired connections.

I also glued an additional EL Wire around the edges of the side window on the inside and it is 4 feet long.

How to do EL Wire mod:

Step one: remove the bottom fan hard drive cage and the side brackets that hold fan hard drive cage in place. You must remove these in order to take off front cover without breaking it. Fan hard drive cage is held in by 2 long thumb screws, remove these. Side brackets are held in by 2 thumb screws for each one, remove these. Take these parts out.

Step two: remove front plastic cover. This is done by first taking off very top plastic cover, you know those 6 plastic tabs and remove the top. Then you'll see 2 screws on top near the front corners that look like they have 2 small washers attached to them. Use screwdriver and take these out. Then remove CM Storm logo faceplate on the front at the bottom. You'll see a small support arm going across horizontally. Remove the 2 screws in the holes on support arm. If you have bay devices, remove the mesh bay cover directly below them to give room to slide front cover up a tiny bit. It shouldn't have to slide up very much, an inch or less to come off.

Step three: remove the tiny black plastic inserts, shaped like a T, that are inside the grooves. On the back of the front cover, you can see that there are 4 small white tabs that hold this tiny black insert in place. I took a flat screw driver and pushed against these white tabs while pushing against the black insert as well. Start removing black insert from the bottom and work your way up.

Step four: install EL Wires to the front cover grooves. Start at the bottom with the connector ends and work wire into the groove. Have the other end of the wire stop at the T intersection at the top, just like stopping at a stop sign. Glue in a few inches at a time starting at the top where the wire stops at the T. You can use a flat screwdriver to hold wire down into the groove for 30-40 seconds so the glue can take hold. Continue gluing wire down a few inches at a time. For the 2 tiny wires on the front faceplate at the top of the T, set these into place and glue down. Pretty self explanatory.

Step five: drilling hole in top cover. If you have some sort of hole gauge, I'd recommend putting your wire through one of it's holes where wire fits into snugly in order to tell what size drill bit to use, I used a 7/64" bit. Drill your hole in the top groove on the right hand side where the groove ends. Drill hole at roughly a 30 to 45 degree angle so wire will sit into groove nice and neatly at this drilled spot. Drill at slow speed and go slow, it's only plastic. Luckily it is pretty good and thick plastic at this groove area.

Step six: Install top cover wire. First on the metal top part of the case where the handle is attached, you'll see that there is a small oval shaped hole right next to the top dust filter at the front right corner. Pull all your EL Wire through this hole leaving your connection end inside your case. Then take the end of the wire and feed it through the hole you drilled. Place wire into the groove and glue it down a few inches at a time starting where the wire will end on the left hand side where groove ends.

Step seven: Install molex connector to Power Supply, 2-pin connector attached to molex connector to power inverter, 2-pin connector attached power inverter to 2-pin connector on splitter, and finally 2-pin connectors on splitter to 2-pin connectors on EL Wire. If you are using a sound controlled power inverter like I am, I recommend mounting it if you can using sticky velcro strips at bottom of your case near the very front. It will fit under your toolbox with no problem. Having it here will allow you to simply remove CM Storm logo faceplate to easily switch from constant on, sound controlled, and even off. The off ability on this inverter is nice cause then you could leave the power switch on molex connector on and turn off EL Wire at the inverter which is conveniently located at the front of the case.

Step eight: with all connections hooked up, test EL Wire to make sure it all works. With everything working fine, install front cover, screw in 2 screws at the top corners and 2 screws on front support arm. Install top cover, should snap into place. Install side brackets with 2 thumb screws each and fan hard drive cage with 2 longer thumb screws. Put back on mesh bay covers and CM Storm logo faceplate and you are good to go.
Hope this helps you guys out. thumb.gif

Fantastic, thanks! This will be a project for me over the Summer I think along with getting my new custom cables
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post #10112 of 12520
So I dismantled my case again during cleaning, ended up with an empty shell. It's finally time to do some mods. Locally I only have access to clear acrylic sheets, haven't been able to find anything else. I also will have access to sheet metal but I don't have a break to do the bends right now.

The acrylic will work fine for the mods but finishing it will be the problem, I cannot find satin black vinyl wrap locally either. Anyone have any links to some good stuff online?
 
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post #10113 of 12520
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mega Man View Post


Ok, I got you now. So I need to contact this guy, unimatrixzero, in order to make that happen?
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post #10114 of 12520
Hi Guys i am new here..

i used to browse this forum before i build my first gaming pc..well i think ive done my homework correctly thumb.gif.

below link is my Keket Rig Project and im still open for any suggestions from you guys.smile.gif

my 1st video
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nprw0Tn9Wgo

and updated video

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bnUjVU09cFI
post #10115 of 12520
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ne1ld0 View Post


Here is some detailed info for you guys with step-by-step instructions on EL wire for the Storm Trooper and Stryker cases and some info on I/O panel LEDs:

Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
First up, replacing the power light LEDs:

I bought my two green 3mm LEDs from FrozenCPU.com.

I replaced the two 3mm red LEDs for the power button with green ones. Also, I didn't really solder the new LEDs into place since I suck at soldering so changing these without soldering them is a breeze.

What I did was unscrew the screws holding the I/O circuit board down, pushed all the wires going to the I/O circuit board up towards it to give me enough room to pull it out and flipped over without having to unconnect any of those wires, got myself a soldering iron for $4 at Harbor Freight, let soldering iron heat up, used it to heat up the solder on the back of the red LEDs with one hand while other hand pulled the red LEDs out to remove them.

With red LEDs removed, you will notice on I/O circuit board a small + (positive side) on the right side holes. Now the wires on your new LEDs will probably be much longer than the tiny ones on red LEDs. This does not matter, I did not make any changes to these longer wires. You will notice that one of these wires on new LEDs is longer than the other. Longer wire = + (positive side) and goes in hole on the right.

I had trouble getting new LEDs into the holes simply because some of the solder left over from red LEDs had hardened back up and covered the holes slightly. This is no big deal. If you run into this problem, simply reheat that solder, even placing tip of soldering iron into holes if necessary. While I reheated this left over solder, I also pushed LEDs wires through holes. Once fully into place, I held LEDs in place with one hand and bent wires downward on the backside with other hand. With wires bent, I used electrical tape to hold them down. Made sure tape did not cover that U shaped area at the very top between power LEDs cause thats where power button is located.

Flipped it back over, and tested it. Everything worked so I just reassembled it all.

Maybe not the best way to go about it, but it works, is simple, and cheap.

On a side note, the power and HDD indicator LEDs are also 3mm in size.

Second up, replacing the tiny fan controller LEDs:

Before starting into this subject, I have not done this yet. I have been doing a lot of research into this and have been talking to 2 members who have replaced these and this is what both of them told me:

"theyre 3 individual SMDs i soldered on, i got them from alliedelec.com website, the 3mm ones.

http://www.alliedelec.com/search/productdetail.aspx?SKU=70062856

heres where i got em from. 3.2mm x 1.6mm"


After messaging both of these members, both of them got their LEDs from this website. Of course these do require soldering to replace. I did end up buying these tiny LEDs, but because they are so tiny I haven't gotten the courage yet to even try to replace these little bastards.

Third up, EL Wire Mod Tutorial:

Before we begin, I will warn you that power inverters that are required to light up the EL wire do make a slightly high pitch noise when in use. Because this noise can be annoying, I recommend installing a PCI-slot rocker switch to turn EL Wire on/off. I really only turn mine on to show off. I have bought sound dampening foam and surrounded my power inverter with it and it honestly didn't help much. I will say that I use headphones pretty much all the time on my PC and I can't here the inverter noise with them on. Oh, I also bought all my EL Wire stuff from ELWirePros.com.

Here we go:

I did notice I forgot to mention in the video the VERY FIRST STEP which is to remove the bottom fan w/ hard cage and the side brackets that hold it in place. You must remove these in order to take off the front plastic cover.

I've also added an updated text version of all the steps required to do this mod below.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=niFwIio0Stc&feature=player_embedded

What you need to do this EL Wire mod:

a molex power connector with a power switch and a 2-pin locking connector attached (most power inverters I found have an option to buy a molex power connector with it and the 2-pin locking connector. It is the same type that Cooler Master uses for the LED on/off ability on the built-in fan controller. I did not like the on/off switch my molex power connector came with so I bought a PCI slot rocker switch which works great!)

a power inverter rated for the amount of feet you are using or more (if you plan on using super bright EL wire like I did, you'll need to take the amount of feet you used and double that for the power inverter rating. I am using a sound controlled inverter that has a constant on, sound controlled, and off ability. It is rated for 10 to 60 feet. Personally, I recommend a sound controlled one.)

EL Wire with quick-connectors already attached so you won't have to solder on connectors. They make it easy to just plug in and use. These quick-connectors are 2-pin locking connectors again just like Cooler Master's LED connectors.

For more than one EL Wire and most likely you'll want to use more than one, you'll need to get a 2-pin locking connector splitter, also called an EL Wire splitter on most sites. I am using one splitter where I can hook up to 5 EL Wires with it.

Super Glue to help hold EL Wire in place. I recommend glue that dries clear and has a tiny nozzle on it to get into the grooves. I used Krazy Glue Advanced Formula. It comes in a small bottle, but was more than enough.

If you plan on adding an EL Wire to the top outer groove, you will need a drill and a 7/64" bit for 2.6mm diameter EL wire to drill a tiny hole in the groove where it ends on the right hand side. This way all your wired connections can be with all your other wires on that side of the case. Also you'll want to drill that hole at an angle so wire won't have to come straight out and bend at an ugly 90 angle.

EL Wire Sizes:

All the EL Wire I used is 2.6mm in diameter and the lengths are as follows:

2 vertical wires on front are 2 feet long (this gives you a bit extra to make it easy to make connections by the right side panel)

2 small horizontal wires on front near the top are 1 foot long (again plenty extra to make connections easy),

1 wire at the very top on mine is 9 feet long cause I used it to outline around the edges of all 3 mesh vents, using tiny zip ties, and then through the tiny hole I drilled to the outside groove. If you plan on using wire in just the groove, you'll need to measure just the groove and add a foot to that measurement to have plenty extra for wired connections.

I also glued an additional EL Wire around the edges of the side window on the inside and it is 4 feet long.

How to do EL Wire mod:

Step one: remove the bottom fan hard drive cage and the side brackets that hold fan hard drive cage in place. You must remove these in order to take off front cover without breaking it. Fan hard drive cage is held in by 2 long thumb screws, remove these. Side brackets are held in by 2 thumb screws for each one, remove these. Take these parts out.

Step two: remove front plastic cover. This is done by first taking off very top plastic cover, you know those 6 plastic tabs and remove the top. Then you'll see 2 screws on top near the front corners that look like they have 2 small washers attached to them. Use screwdriver and take these out. Then remove CM Storm logo faceplate on the front at the bottom. You'll see a small support arm going across horizontally. Remove the 2 screws in the holes on support arm. If you have bay devices, remove the mesh bay cover directly below them to give room to slide front cover up a tiny bit. It shouldn't have to slide up very much, an inch or less to come off.

Step three: remove the tiny black plastic inserts, shaped like a T, that are inside the grooves. On the back of the front cover, you can see that there are 4 small white tabs that hold this tiny black insert in place. I took a flat screw driver and pushed against these white tabs while pushing against the black insert as well. Start removing black insert from the bottom and work your way up.

Step four: install EL Wires to the front cover grooves. Start at the bottom with the connector ends and work wire into the groove. Have the other end of the wire stop at the T intersection at the top, just like stopping at a stop sign. Glue in a few inches at a time starting at the top where the wire stops at the T. You can use a flat screwdriver to hold wire down into the groove for 30-40 seconds so the glue can take hold. Continue gluing wire down a few inches at a time. For the 2 tiny wires on the front faceplate at the top of the T, set these into place and glue down. Pretty self explanatory.

Step five: drilling hole in top cover. If you have some sort of hole gauge, I'd recommend putting your wire through one of it's holes where wire fits into snugly in order to tell what size drill bit to use, I used a 7/64" bit. Drill your hole in the top groove on the right hand side where the groove ends. Drill hole at roughly a 30 to 45 degree angle so wire will sit into groove nice and neatly at this drilled spot. Drill at slow speed and go slow, it's only plastic. Luckily it is pretty good and thick plastic at this groove area.

Step six: Install top cover wire. First on the metal top part of the case where the handle is attached, you'll see that there is a small oval shaped hole right next to the top dust filter at the front right corner. Pull all your EL Wire through this hole leaving your connection end inside your case. Then take the end of the wire and feed it through the hole you drilled. Place wire into the groove and glue it down a few inches at a time starting where the wire will end on the left hand side where groove ends.

Step seven: Install molex connector to Power Supply, 2-pin connector attached to molex connector to power inverter, 2-pin connector attached power inverter to 2-pin connector on splitter, and finally 2-pin connectors on splitter to 2-pin connectors on EL Wire. If you are using a sound controlled power inverter like I am, I recommend mounting it if you can using sticky velcro strips at bottom of your case near the very front. It will fit under your toolbox with no problem. Having it here will allow you to simply remove CM Storm logo faceplate to easily switch from constant on, sound controlled, and even off. The off ability on this inverter is nice cause then you could leave the power switch on molex connector on and turn off EL Wire at the inverter which is conveniently located at the front of the case.

Step eight: with all connections hooked up, test EL Wire to make sure it all works. With everything working fine, install front cover, screw in 2 screws at the top corners and 2 screws on front support arm. Install top cover, should snap into place. Install side brackets with 2 thumb screws each and fan hard drive cage with 2 longer thumb screws. Put back on mesh bay covers and CM Storm logo faceplate and you are good to go.
Hope this helps you guys out. thumb.gif
Takes notes tongue.gif
post #10116 of 12520
Hey all. with the other recent upgrades I've done with my tax return, I thought It was time to change cases as well. Have had the modded cm690 II advanced for a few years now and just wanted something new. Really like the Storm Trooper.

Tiger direct has them for $159-$10(Fry's price match)-$25(in-store coupon code)-$25MIR = $99 final price.

I was going to ask about the fans that come stock. Are they worth keeping? Mainly the top 200mm is my concern. Will I want to put a different 200mm up there?(or maybe just stick a pair of my 120mm bitfenix Spectre(non pro) instead? What will net me the best air movement?

I plan on having the top exhaust, rear intake for my corsair CLC, and the two front fans as intake(possibly an intake on the bottom of the case as well)
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post #10117 of 12520
Quote:
Originally Posted by mwl5apv View Post

Hey all. with the other recent upgrades I've done with my tax return, I thought It was time to change cases as well. Have had the modded cm690 II advanced for a few years now and just wanted something new. Really like the Storm Trooper.

Tiger direct has them for $159-$10(Fry's price match)-$25(in-store coupon code)-$25MIR = $99 final price.

I was going to ask about the fans that come stock. Are they worth keeping? Mainly the top 200mm is my concern. Will I want to put a different 200mm up there?(or maybe just stick a pair of my 120mm bitfenix Spectre(non pro) instead? What will net me the best air movement?

I plan on having the top exhaust, rear intake for my corsair CLC, and the two front fans as intake(possibly an intake on the bottom of the case as well)

CM Storm Trooper is a great step up from a CM 690II! (exactly what I did) smile.gif
   
Gamer/Miner/Pimp
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post #10118 of 12520
Quote:
Originally Posted by mwl5apv View Post

Hey all. with the other recent upgrades I've done with my tax return, I thought It was time to change cases as well. Have had the modded cm690 II advanced for a few years now and just wanted something new. Really like the Storm Trooper.

Tiger direct has them for $159-$10(Fry's price match)-$25(in-store coupon code)-$25MIR = $99 final price.

I was going to ask about the fans that come stock. Are they worth keeping? Mainly the top 200mm is my concern. Will I want to put a different 200mm up there?(or maybe just stick a pair of my 120mm bitfenix Spectre(non pro) instead? What will net me the best air movement?

I plan on having the top exhaust, rear intake for my corsair CLC, and the two front fans as intake(possibly an intake on the bottom of the case as well)

Having moved from the original 690 to the Stryker I can say I am nothing but happy with the upgrade.

The fans are decent enough, I have the rear & top as exhaust and front as intakes with the front fan moved to face front instead of from the side which is easy enough to do.

I will be looking to swap the 200mm out at some point for 2 140mm fans possibly LED's just to give some extra blig but for the time being the 200mm is doing an adequate job in helping keep the case cool even when I'm mining
Lightning Stryke
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Phanteks PH14TC-PE_BL Cooler Master 200mm Cooler Master 120mm Cooler Master 140mm 
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Lightning Stryke
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Seagate Barracdua 2TB Hitachi Deskstar 1TB Hitachi Deskstar T7K500 400GB SATA-II 16MB Cache Samsung SH-S203NBEBN 20x DVD±RW SATA Dual Layer  
CoolingCoolingCoolingCooling
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Bitfenix Recon Windows 7 Professional BenQ G2420HDBL Logitech G15 
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post #10119 of 12520
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ne1ld0 View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by Mega Man View Post


Ok, I got you now. So I need to contact this guy, unimatrixzero, in order to make that happen?

up to you but i hope he is still active and sees it for himself
Quote:
Originally Posted by mwl5apv View Post

Hey all. with the other recent upgrades I've done with my tax return, I thought It was time to change cases as well. Have had the modded cm690 II advanced for a few years now and just wanted something new. Really like the Storm Trooper.

Tiger direct has them for $159-$10(Fry's price match)-$25(in-store coupon code)-$25MIR = $99 final price.

I was going to ask about the fans that come stock. Are they worth keeping? Mainly the top 200mm is my concern. Will I want to put a different 200mm up there?(or maybe just stick a pair of my 120mm bitfenix Spectre(non pro) instead? What will net me the best air movement?

I plan on having the top exhaust, rear intake for my corsair CLC, and the two front fans as intake(possibly an intake on the bottom of the case as well)

imo no toss em,

but i hate fans over 120mm
USS CLM8-1701
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AMD FX-8350 Gigabyte 990FXA-UD7 R7970-2PMD3GD5/OC  R7970-2PMD3GD5/OC  
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OCZ Agility 3 120GB  Seagate Barracuda 1TB  Segate Barracuda 3TB Rosewill RCR-IM5001 USB2.0 75 in 1 internal Car... 
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Pioneer BDR-208DBK Blu-ray Writer Swiftech H20-220 EDGE HD Liquid Cooling Kit Swiftech Komodo 7970 Swiftech MCP-35X2 
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Swiftech MCP35X2 Heat Sink Swiftech MCP35X Reservoir Swiftech Komodo 7970 Swiftech Komodo 7970 
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Koolance Radiator Mounting Bracket with Quick-R... Swiftech Komodo 7970 Windows 7 Windows 8  
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Swiftech Apogee HD Windows 7 Windows 8 LG E2242 
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LG E2242 RAZER Black Lycosa Mirror Special Edition Seasonic x660 Cooler Master Storm Stryker 
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FX 6100 Sabertooth 990fx R2.0 XFX 7770 Core Edition Samsung 1600 2x4 
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USS CLM8-1701
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Her Venom
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Lil Tough Guy
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CPUMotherboardGraphicsGraphics
AMD FX-8350 Gigabyte 990FXA-UD7 R7970-2PMD3GD5/OC  R7970-2PMD3GD5/OC  
GraphicsGraphicsRAMHard Drive
R7970-2PMD3GD5/OC  R7970-2PMD3GD5/OC  F3-2400C10D-16GTX  OCZ Agility 3 120GB  
Hard DriveHard DriveHard DriveOptical Drive
OCZ Agility 3 120GB  Seagate Barracuda 1TB  Segate Barracuda 3TB Rosewill RCR-IM5001 USB2.0 75 in 1 internal Car... 
Optical DriveCoolingCoolingCooling
Pioneer BDR-208DBK Blu-ray Writer Swiftech H20-220 EDGE HD Liquid Cooling Kit Swiftech Komodo 7970 Swiftech MCP-35X2 
CoolingCoolingCoolingCooling
Swiftech MCP35X2 Heat Sink Swiftech MCP35X Reservoir Swiftech Komodo 7970 Swiftech Komodo 7970 
CoolingCoolingCoolingCooling
Alphacool 240mm XT45 Alphacool 120mm XT45 Alphacool 120mm UT60 FrozenQ PC Mods UV Meteor Light Limited Edition... 
CoolingCoolingOSOS
Koolance Radiator Mounting Bracket with Quick-R... Swiftech Komodo 7970 Windows 7 Windows 8  
MonitorMonitorMonitorMonitor
ASUS VG248QE Black 24" 144Hz 1ms  ASUS VG248QE Black 24" 144Hz 1ms  ASUS VG248QE Black 24" 144Hz 1ms  XFX FXTRISTAND Triple Display Monitor Stand  
KeyboardPowerCaseMouse
Logitech G510 XFX pro 1250w black edition Caselabs MAGNUM M8 Case Razer Naga 
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Sony 2.1 Razer Megalodon XFX pro 1250w black edition 
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8350 batch 1229 pgn  Asus Crosshair V Formula-Z gigabyte 7770 OC gigabyte 7770 OC 
RAMHard DriveHard DriveHard Drive
F3-2400C10D-16GTX OCZ agaility 3 120  OCZ Agility 3 120gb  Seagate 7200rpm 1tb 
Optical DriveOptical DriveCoolingCooling
Pioneer BDR-208DBK Rosewill RCR-IM5001 USB2.0 75 in 1 internal Car... Swiftech MCP-35X White Top Swiftech Quiet Power 240  
CoolingOSOSMonitor
Swiftech Apogee HD Windows 7 Windows 8 LG E2242 
MonitorKeyboardPowerCase
LG E2242 RAZER Black Lycosa Mirror Special Edition Seasonic x660 Cooler Master Storm Stryker 
Mouse
Razer Lachesis 
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
FX 6100 Sabertooth 990fx R2.0 XFX 7770 Core Edition Samsung 1600 2x4 
RAMHard DriveOptical DriveCooling
Samsung 1600 2x4 Unknown as of now  Piorneer BDR-208DBK Swiftech H220  
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post #10120 of 12520
Thanks for the support everyone! Got the 2nd place on Cooler Master Case Mod Competition 2013. smile.gif

http://mod.coolermaster.com/winners.html
   
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Asus VS247H-P CoolerMaster QuickFire Pro CoolerMaster V850 CoolerMaster Storm Troope(Modified) 
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Intel 4770K Asus ROG Maximus Formula VI EVGA GTX 980 SC EVGA GTX 980 SC 
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Hard DriveCoolingOSMonitor
Plextor M5S SSD Aqua-Computer Windows 7 Ultiamte Asus ROG Swift PG278Q 
MonitorKeyboardPowerCase
Asus VS247H-P CoolerMaster QuickFire Pro CoolerMaster V850 CoolerMaster Storm Troope(Modified) 
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Plextor M5S SSD Aqua-Computer Windows 7 Ultiamte Asus ROG Swift PG278Q 
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Asus VS247H-P CoolerMaster QuickFire Pro CoolerMaster V850 CoolerMaster Storm Troope(Modified) 
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