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The Official Cooler Master Storm Trooper / Storm Stryker Club - Page 243

post #2421 of 10428
Quote:
Originally Posted by JuiceyNinja View Post

Hey guys!
I just overclocked my I7 2600 (non k model) to 4.2ghz.
I did it by just changing the multiplier in my BIOS to 42.
This is my first time overclocking and I was wondering if there is anything else I need to do?
I used hyper PI and coretemp to do a test on the temps and VID I got these results;
The temp sits around 33 when idle and the VID is 0.9707 when Idle.
Hyper PI Results:
1m PI Digits, normal priority on all 8 cores; took 14 seconds, VID reaches around 1.35 and the temp hit 59.
2m PI Digits, normal priority on all 8 cores; took 34 seconds, VID reaches around 1.36 and the temp hit 66
4m PI Digits, normal priority on all 8 cores; took 71 seconds, VID reaches around 1.36 and the temp hit 75
Guys is this good or bad? will I ever hit 75 degrees while playing games? or is that just because I did 4m PI Digits.
I am just using the stock CPU Cooler as I feel the case has adequate air flow through the 5 fans I have on it.
Help me guys as I am scared to play games until I know this is safe frown.gif
Do I need to change anything in the BIOS? Or was just changing the multiplier enough?
Hope someone can help me out!
Thanks in advance guys!!!!

I would run prime95 for quite some time. It's recommended let it run for six hours. 1 minute 11 seconds isn't very long, and if you hit 75C that quickly, you might be on risky ground. I'm not sure if they are still the same, but I recall reading that these cores are rated for nothing over 80C (though 75 isn't usually something we want either...)

What cooler do you have? If you're running the stock heatsink/fan, you may want to consider toning it back a little bit, at least until you upgrade that.

In comparison... My 1st gen i5 (750) is overclocked to 4GHz at the moment and maxes out at 65C under full load. I have a Corsair H60 on it.

Hope that helps!
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post #2422 of 10428
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jolly Roger View Post

Alright I was doing some OCing and noticed that my front panel lights are out on my case! The HDD LED lights and blinks, but the pwr LED and the red CM logo is out. Also the fans connected to it are dead. What the heck? Anyone run into a similar problem? Very frustrating. What can I do?

I had fan troubles early on (the lights stopped working), but I didn't mind that so much, especially since I'm doing an orange light scheme. If the lights in the case are going out, you may want to check the molex connector that powers those lights, and the onboard fan controller. That may be your best bet (and definitely the easiest fix). Check to see if any of the pins aren't connected (they get pushed out of the casing waaaay too easily).
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post #2423 of 10428
Quote:
Originally Posted by PhantomLlama View Post

I would run prime95 for quite some time. It's recommended let it run for six hours. 1 minute 11 seconds isn't very long, and if you hit 75C that quickly, you might be on risky ground. I'm not sure if they are still the same, but I recall reading that these cores are rated for nothing over 80C (though 75 isn't usually something we want either...)
What cooler do you have? If you're running the stock heatsink/fan, you may want to consider toning it back a little bit, at least until you upgrade that.
In comparison... My 1st gen i5 (750) is overclocked to 4GHz at the moment and maxes out at 65C under full load. I have a Corsair H60 on it.
Hope that helps!

I am currently just using the stock cooler that came with my CPU. I was thinking of buying a corsair H80 water cooler, I am just a little worried as I have heard that the corsair h series coolers can sometimes be quite noisy?

Is it worth upgrading to a h80? Will I see a big difference in the temps when under full load? I hear they are good but I would prefer to get feedback off someone that actually has used the corsair coolers.

I think I will just put the core clock back to normal until I get a cooler.

Thanks for all the help mate.
Blue Trooper
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Agility 60GB SSD (OS) 160GB HDD  Windows 7 Home Edition OEM some 23" thing. 
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Blue Trooper
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Hard DriveHard DriveOSMonitor
Agility 60GB SSD (OS) 160GB HDD  Windows 7 Home Edition OEM some 23" thing. 
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post #2424 of 10428
I have just upgraded from a H80 to a custom water cooling loop, see above.

They are ok, but i find once you start over clocking your are always looking for that little bit extra performance. Well that may just be me ? Na, but anyway i definitively recommend a custom water loop, you will get a much better overclock and temps are great. The H80 can be very noisy once you start to overclock your CPU and generating a lot of heat, the fans ramp up and can be very very loud. With the custom loop i have installed, i run the fans off the storm troopers controller on setting 4 (just two lights on) i cant hear the fans. When rendering 3d for extended periods i turn the fans up a little but it is still very quiet. The last thing is, once you have built your loop, you get this warm fuzzy feeling inside because you know you built it!

The H100 might suit your needs better if you can fit in in the system, I don't think the 120 mm rad is enough for a good overclock.
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post #2425 of 10428
Quote:
Originally Posted by Devilguns View Post

I was going to make the base out of steel. 1/2" Steel rod bent and welded to the post which will be trapezoidal shaped. The post will be about an 1/8th thick. It would have plates welded across with mounting holes to line up with the holes where the factory feet were mounted.Then once I decide on the "legs" they'll get the same treatment. I'll make some kind of ABS plastic cover for them.
As far as the bottom mounting of the reservoirs. I plan on removing the lower drive bay. They will actually extend up inside. The water level will be higher than the pump/pumps to keep them primed.

I don't think 1/2 in round will be stiff enough, it would bounce and or bend, you would need some sort of diagonal from the front to the post. Water is heavy. You may be better to use some RHS, it's stiffer, theres a reason aluminum masts are not solid.
post #2426 of 10428
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ranguvar View Post

I'm considering getting a Storm Trooper, just a few questions.
One, the fans on the HDD bays seem a bit silly in their default setup unless you're running packing them full of 15,000rpm HDDs.
But to get those fans to act as intake fans and cool the entire PC, you'd need to move the entire HDD 'module' so that the back of the drives faces right towards the motherboard -- and that isn't as convenient for cable management.
Is there a way to get the best of both worlds, keep the 'modules' in their default orientation but move the fans to the front of the case so they can cool the entire PC?

With two side fans in place Not sure any more cooling is needed for a non water setup, but if you only have a few HD just turn the empty bay, that'll give you three input fans.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ranguvar View Post

Two, is there anything you know now about this case you wish you had known before buying it?

Yeah! a E-ATX motherboard wont fit.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Ranguvar View Post

EDIT: One more! Apparently the built-in fan controller supports five fans, and LEDs on three.
That makes things a little awkward, as I was going to add a pair of CM red LED fans to the side, which means one of the four LED fans won't be have LED control.
Any way around this besides getting another controller? Can I use a Y splitter on one of the LED cables?
Thanks a lot.

It should do, LEDs don't draw much current, & it's only a switch.
post #2427 of 10428
Good luck finding fans that have separate wires for the fan and led so it plugs into the fan controller and still have the ability to turn the led's off
post #2428 of 10428
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dimlow View Post

I have just upgraded from a H80 to a custom water cooling loop, see above.
They are ok, but i find once you start over clocking your are always looking for that little bit extra performance. Well that may just be me ? Na, but anyway i definitively recommend a custom water loop, you will get a much better overclock and temps are great. The H80 can be very noisy once you start to overclock your CPU and generating a lot of heat, the fans ramp up and can be very very loud. With the custom loop i have installed, i run the fans off the storm troopers controller on setting 4 (just two lights on) i cant hear the fans. When rendering 3d for extended periods i turn the fans up a little but it is still very quiet. The last thing is, once you have built your loop, you get this warm fuzzy feeling inside because you know you built it!
The H100 might suit your needs better if you can fit in in the system, I don't think the 120 mm rad is enough for a good overclock.

Hey, I hear you about the H80... But?? It's still one of the best contained liquid coolers around; next to the H100... Once my mod on my 'Storm Scout' is finished and all my parts get here for my Trooper, ( as well as my Trooper gettin here) I be starting my 'Trooper' build... I was contemplating between self contained and a full water-loop.. I think I'll throw her on "Air" just to get her up and running for testing. I will eventually cross her over to a water-loop!!! Well, at least this is what I'm planing but you know how that can go. Either way, 'Congrads'. on the cross-over...

P.S.: I hear that warm-fuzzy feeling is a good feeling!!! thumb.gif
RogueSpear
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AMD Phenom II x 4, 975 B.E.-Deneb 3.6Ghz Stock ... GIGABYTE GA-MA785G-UD3H Gigabyte-Ultra-Durable-Radeon-HD-GV-R685OC-1GD-... 6 gigs of PI-G-Skill 2x4,DDR2-8500 (1066mhz) 
Hard DriveOptical DriveCoolingOS
1# WD,C.B. 640GB / 2#WD,C.B.1.5 TB / 3#H.DS.1 TB 1 Samsung's HD DVD 54x Re-Writer Corsair Hydro Series H80 High Performance Liqui... Dr.1# Win 7. 64bit /Dr.2# Win 7 Ult 64bit /Dr.3#Sg 
MonitorKeyboardPowerCase
HP w2408h HDMI '24'inch "1400X900" 1 Microsoft- Sidewinder X 6  OCZ Fatal1ty OCZ700FTY 700W ATX12V COOLER MASTER "Storm Scout" 
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RogueSpear
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Hard DriveOptical DriveCoolingOS
1# WD,C.B. 640GB / 2#WD,C.B.1.5 TB / 3#H.DS.1 TB 1 Samsung's HD DVD 54x Re-Writer Corsair Hydro Series H80 High Performance Liqui... Dr.1# Win 7. 64bit /Dr.2# Win 7 Ult 64bit /Dr.3#Sg 
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HP w2408h HDMI '24'inch "1400X900" 1 Microsoft- Sidewinder X 6  OCZ Fatal1ty OCZ700FTY 700W ATX12V COOLER MASTER "Storm Scout" 
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post #2429 of 10428
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rogue1266 View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by Dimlow View Post

I have just upgraded from a H80 to a custom water cooling loop, see above.
They are ok, but i find once you start over clocking your are always looking for that little bit extra performance. Well that may just be me ? Na, but anyway i definitively recommend a custom water loop, you will get a much better overclock and temps are great. The H80 can be very noisy once you start to overclock your CPU and generating a lot of heat, the fans ramp up and can be very very loud. With the custom loop i have installed, i run the fans off the storm troopers controller on setting 4 (just two lights on) i cant hear the fans. When rendering 3d for extended periods i turn the fans up a little but it is still very quiet. The last thing is, once you have built your loop, you get this warm fuzzy feeling inside because you know you built it!
The H100 might suit your needs better if you can fit in in the system, I don't think the 120 mm rad is enough for a good overclock.

Hey, I hear you about the H80... But?? It's still one of the best contained liquid coolers around; next to the H100... Once my mod on my 'Storm Scout' is finished and all my parts get here for my Trooper, ( as well as my Trooper gettin here) I be starting my 'Trooper' build... I was contemplating between self contained and a full water-loop.. I think I'll throw her on "Air" just to get her up and running for testing. I will eventually cross her over to a water-loop!!! Well, at least this is what I'm planing but you know how that can go. Either way, 'Congrads'. on the cross-over...

P.S.: I hear that warm-fuzzy feeling is a good feeling!!! thumb.gif

Well If you are going with AIR... the Push Pull CM 212 is still one of the best Air Coolers out.
400


Personally I have Push pull H-100 now and I am very happy with it..
469


but it is not anything close to a real Kustom Closed loop system.. but that Is money there. Best cheap would be the 212.. then the H-100 then fat 240 push pull with Res and a good pump. That 240 would fit solid in the Drive bay area. you can Dump SSD's anywhere that your wire can reach and a few HDDs can be mounted on the bottom if you needed with a Lian Li after market Drive bay that rivets in the bottom. Aluminmum of course.
338

Edited by unimatrixzero - 4/14/12 at 12:37pm
Section 31
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CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
Core i7 3820 ASRock X79 Extreme 9 Sapphire 5770 X 2 In Crossfire 16GB Corsair Vengence 
Hard DriveHard DriveHard DriveHard Drive
Plextor SSD 128 GB 1 TB WD Black 1.5 tb WD Black  2 tb Seagate Green 
Hard DriveOptical DriveCoolingCooling
WD RAPTOR 300  Plextor PX850SA Corsair H-100 Water cooling on processor Factory Cooling for both 5770 Graphic Cards 
OSMonitorMonitorKeyboard
WINDOWS 7 Ultimate 64 ViewSonic VX2235wm Samsung 920 BW APC With Cherry Switches. 
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Corair HX-1000 CM Storm Trooper Enigma Cobra Edition Microsoft SideWinder Gaming Mouse ASUS Black Leather 
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Creative Core Recon 3Di 
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Section 31
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Core i7 3820 ASRock X79 Extreme 9 Sapphire 5770 X 2 In Crossfire 16GB Corsair Vengence 
Hard DriveHard DriveHard DriveHard Drive
Plextor SSD 128 GB 1 TB WD Black 1.5 tb WD Black  2 tb Seagate Green 
Hard DriveOptical DriveCoolingCooling
WD RAPTOR 300  Plextor PX850SA Corsair H-100 Water cooling on processor Factory Cooling for both 5770 Graphic Cards 
OSMonitorMonitorKeyboard
WINDOWS 7 Ultimate 64 ViewSonic VX2235wm Samsung 920 BW APC With Cherry Switches. 
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Corair HX-1000 CM Storm Trooper Enigma Cobra Edition Microsoft SideWinder Gaming Mouse ASUS Black Leather 
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post #2430 of 10428
Quote:
Originally Posted by PhantomLlama View Post

I had fan troubles early on (the lights stopped working), but I didn't mind that so much, especially since I'm doing an orange light scheme. If the lights in the case are going out, you may want to check the molex connector that powers those lights, and the onboard fan controller. That may be your best bet (and definitely the easiest fix). Check to see if any of the pins aren't connected (they get pushed out of the casing waaaay too easily).

Disconnected cable. I was doing some fan rearranging and and didn't realize it got unplugged. What a rookie. Thanks. REP+
DEFCON-3
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Hard DriveHard DriveHard DriveHard Drive
Samsung 840 PRO 128GB Kingston HyperX 3K 128GB Kingston SSDnowV+ 128GB  WD Caviar BLACK 500GB 
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ASUS Blu-ray ASUS LightScribe-DVD SILVER ARROW SB-E ULTRA ULT40010 HDD cooler 
OSMonitorMonitorKeyboard
Windows 7 PRO 64-bit 3x ASUS VN248H (24" 1080p AH-IPS) VIZIO 55" M552i-xx (coming soon) Logitech G710+ 
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Seasonic M12II 750W CM STORM:Trooper DEFCON-3 MOD Logitech G9x Corsair MM600 
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Logitech K400r 
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AMD Phenom II X2 550 MSI 770-C45 Sparkle GT 220 4GB Corsair XMS3 
Hard DriveHard DriveOptical DriveCooling
Western Digital 500GB Caviar Black Seagate Baracuda 1TB ASUS blu-ray Stock 
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Windows 7 Proffesional  Acer 24"  Logitech Wave OCZ modXtreme Pro 600W 
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Cooler Master Centurion 5 blue Logitech LX8 
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DEFCON-3
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Hard DriveHard DriveHard DriveHard Drive
Samsung 840 PRO 128GB Kingston HyperX 3K 128GB Kingston SSDnowV+ 128GB  WD Caviar BLACK 500GB 
Optical DriveOptical DriveCoolingCooling
ASUS Blu-ray ASUS LightScribe-DVD SILVER ARROW SB-E ULTRA ULT40010 HDD cooler 
OSMonitorMonitorKeyboard
Windows 7 PRO 64-bit 3x ASUS VN248H (24" 1080p AH-IPS) VIZIO 55" M552i-xx (coming soon) Logitech G710+ 
PowerCaseMouseMouse Pad
Seasonic M12II 750W CM STORM:Trooper DEFCON-3 MOD Logitech G9x Corsair MM600 
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AMD Phenom II X2 550 MSI 770-C45 Sparkle GT 220 4GB Corsair XMS3 
Hard DriveHard DriveOptical DriveCooling
Western Digital 500GB Caviar Black Seagate Baracuda 1TB ASUS blu-ray Stock 
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