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The Official Cooler Master Storm Trooper / Storm Stryker Club - Page 839

post #8381 of 12497
Hi guys!

I'm a first time builder who feel in love with this case pretty much reading this thread.
I've just filled in my aplication form, it would be an honour to joint he club. biggrin.gif

Here is my pic:



And here is my log for the build:

http://www.overclock.net/t/1405697/first-build-log#post_20308675

Thank you all for making a first build smoother, I literally couldn’t have done it without you.
The tons of information stored in Overclock.net and particularly in this thread was a fantastic help!

thumb.gif
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post #8382 of 12497
So now I am an official owner of a new windowed CM Storm Trooper case smile.gif If I can work out how to stick a pic up later, I'll do so.

Once I got my head around how I wanted most everything, I made a somewhat decent attempt at keep the cables tidy around the back of the mobo plate, though I wasn't sure where to put the H100i fan cables that seemed to float over the memory and look awful.

But I'm left with 3 spare cable ends and the e-SATA cable from the case front panel. Can I simply plug the e-SATA cable into a normal SATA3 port on the mobo ? (Asus Maximus VI Hero) With the other 3 cable ends, they include the brownish cables, what look like two power and one fan. I don't seem to have any fans (unlike the two front case fans) that require both of these connectors, let alone the fact that I'm a fan cable short. Thoughts please?

Lastly, I purchased a pair of Corsair AF120's (no single packs), I originally wanted one as an exhaust on the rear in replacement of the original exhaust. But now I have been thinking about pairing them as exhaust on the bottom of the case (I'd have them as intake, but it's a dusty room and people don't recommend the AF's as intake with dust filters) - I just wasn't sure what was best to do with them. Currently I have kept the rear case exhaust fan, removed the upper exhaust and replaced with the H100i rad (will soon have 2x SP120's), kept the two front case fans as intake from the front, and the bottom vent area is empty.
post #8383 of 12497
Quote:
Originally Posted by infyrana View Post

So now I am an official owner of a new windowed CM Storm Trooper case smile.gif If I can work out how to stick a pic up later, I'll do so.

Once I got my head around how I wanted most everything, I made a somewhat decent attempt at keep the cables tidy around the back of the mobo plate, though I wasn't sure where to put the H100i fan cables that seemed to float over the memory and look awful.

But I'm left with 3 spare cable ends and the e-SATA cable from the case front panel. Can I simply plug the e-SATA cable into a normal SATA3 port on the mobo ? (Asus Maximus VI Hero) With the other 3 cable ends, they include the brownish cables, what look like two power and one fan. I don't seem to have any fans (unlike the two front case fans) that require both of these connectors, let alone the fact that I'm a fan cable short. Thoughts please?

Lastly, I purchased a pair of Corsair AF120's (no single packs), I originally wanted one as an exhaust on the rear in replacement of the original exhaust. But now I have been thinking about pairing them as exhaust on the bottom of the case (I'd have them as intake, but it's a dusty room and people don't recommend the AF's as intake with dust filters) - I just wasn't sure what was best to do with them. Currently I have kept the rear case exhaust fan, removed the upper exhaust and replaced with the H100i rad (will soon have 2x SP120's), kept the two front case fans as intake from the front, and the bottom vent area is empty.

Yes, you can run the esata cable directly to your motherboard sata ports, this is how it's designed to work.

Here is a diagram i whipped up to show you what wires are what coming from the top panel:
CREATOR: gd-jpeg v1.0 (using IJG JPEG v62), quality = 100

The 2 pin connectors are for stock led fans. You can use them for aftermarket fans that have these connections but might run into pulsing issues at low speed.

The black/white 3 pin power are for the stock front led fans as well as two of the 2 pin led cables. The brown/black 3 pin is for the stock rear and top fans. At least that is how I had mine wired before.

Something to note...if you plan to use the xdock, make sure you run a molex power to the front panel. The one pictured is not for the x-dock. This one got me for awhile, I thought it was broke until I happened to spot the molex plug on the panel during a cleaning.
Edited by benben84 - 7/19/13 at 5:18am
 
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post #8384 of 12497
Quote:
Originally Posted by benben84 View Post

Yes, you can run the esata cable directly to your motherboard sata ports, this is how it's designed to work.

Here is a diagram i whipped up to show you what wires are what coming from the top panel:
CREATOR: gd-jpeg v1.0 (using IJG JPEG v62), quality = 100

The 2 pin connectors are for stock led fans. You can use them for aftermarket fans that have these connections but might run into pulsing issues at low speed.

The black/white 3 pin power are for the stock front led fans as well as two of the 2 pin led cables. The brown/black 3 pin is for the stock rear and top fans. At least that is how I had mine wired before.

Something to note...if you plan to use the xdock, make sure you run a molex power to the front panel. The one pictured is not for the x-dock. This one got me for awhile, I thought it was broke until I happened to spot the molex plug on the panel during a cleaning.

Do you know if i strip those 2pin LED connectors and connect them to say cathode lights cause they are also 2pin would they work?
post #8385 of 12497
Quote:
Originally Posted by Skidmore View Post

Do you know if i strip those 2pin LED connectors and connect them to say cathode lights cause they are also 2pin would they work?

Cold cathodes need a very high voltage (over 500V) and they're AC so it won't work. And the led cable also doesn't have enough power for the inverter.

What you should be able to do is to connect a relay between the inverter and the molex plug, and then control it with the fan led wire.
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post #8386 of 12497
Quote:
Originally Posted by JKuhn View Post

Cold cathodes need a very high voltage (over 500V) and they're AC so it won't work. And the led cable also doesn't have enough power for the inverter.

What you should be able to do is to connect a relay between the inverter and the molex plug, and then control it with the fan led wire.

what type of relay? if you could point me into the right direction.

Thanks
post #8387 of 12497
Quote:
Originally Posted by Skidmore View Post

what type of relay? if you could point me into the right direction.

Thanks

I'm not an expert with these things, so you'll have to ask someone with an electrical background, but basically it's just to switch the main circuit (for the inverter and CCFL) on when there's a current on the control circuit(the fan led cable). It keeps the two circuits seperate. As long as the control side can operate with the power supplied by the led cable, and the main side can handle 12V (or 5, I'm not sure but I'd recommend 12 anyway) it should work.
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post #8388 of 12497
Just stick with the inverter a relay is not a good use for something like that and it's a good way to short out and start a fire as you clearly know nothing. I ran led strips off of one and it worked great so just switch out the 1990 cathode for some led strips and it would work much better.
post #8389 of 12497
Quote:
Originally Posted by JA90 View Post

I hope this answers your question biggrin.gif (just got out of the booth) Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)

Ah, Sweet!! Talk about standing out in the crowd. That's gonna look Sick!
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post #8390 of 12497
Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
Quote:
Originally Posted by JKuhn View Post

Cold cathodes need a very high voltage (over 500V) and they're AC so it won't work. And the led cable also doesn't have enough power for the inverter.

What you should be able to do is to connect a relay between the inverter and the molex plug, and then control it with the fan led wire.


Quote:
Originally Posted by JKuhn View Post

I'm not an expert with these things, so you'll have to ask someone with an electrical background, but basically it's just to switch the main circuit (for the inverter and CCFL) on when there's a current on the control circuit(the fan led cable). It keeps the two circuits seperate. As long as the control side can operate with the power supplied by the led cable, and the main side can handle 12V (or 5, I'm not sure but I'd recommend 12 anyway) it should work.

Quote:
Originally Posted by justinwebb View Post

Just stick with the inverter a relay is not a good use for something like that and it's a good way to short out and start a fire as you clearly know nothing. I ran led strips off of one and it worked great so just switch out the 1990 cathode for some led strips and it would work much better.
ummmmmmm

no

i think you need to check your sources. what a relay/ contacter is ~ basic ! (Click to show)
a relay is basically a light switch that is controlled by power. it was a very very good idea, assuming he gets the right ones.

there are two basic types of relays normally open and normally closed. normally open will TURN ON something when power is applied to the coil normally closed will shut something off when power is applied to the coil.

they have an amp rating. ( usually called FLA {Full Load Amps } but this depends on main usage of item, sometimes it is called amps ) however you will not start a fire using the incorrect amp ratted relay that is mostly holly wood and scare tactics usually you will just burn a wire, is it possible.... sure in a very very very very very very very rare instance, but hey so is getting hit by lightning

i can promise that if you get a 5vcoil 12v 40a relay it will be more then you will ever need. and you will be fine.

ill edit in some examples.


also you can buy plugs that plug into those 2 pin led connectors ... i will see if i can find them as well..... again .
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