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Corsair Carbide Series Owners Club - Page 353

Poll Results: Which One(s) Do you Own?

This is a multiple choice poll
  • 14% of voters (91)
    200R
  • 22% of voters (135)
    300R
  • 18% of voters (112)
    400R
  • 46% of voters (283)
    500R
612 Total Votes  
post #3521 of 4610
Quote:
Originally Posted by starships View Post

Thanks. Hm, I feel like this would be fairly simple to mod. +rep been answering all my questions lol


I did it, very simple mod. You will need a dremel to cut out the 45 degrees recessed area, long enough to cover all the 5 lower sata ports.

Use some masking tape while the motherboard is still Inside the case, place that tape on the recession slope, and make two marks on the tape with a felt tip pen (a good small Sharpie will do a great job) at each end of the sata port area, leaving some additional space at the ends, to facilitate sata cable connections. Then take everything outside the case, and I mean everything. EMpty your case until it is back to when you pulled it out of its shipping box. You must know that since you'll be cutting metal, there will be some metal dust and scrap.

Use any good rotary tool with reinforced cutting disks to cut out the metal. While your case is empty, you should put some more masking tape to cover the area you will cut, draw with the felt tip pen some line to help you guide your cut.

On mine mine I began in the interior of the case, cutting where the motherboard tray and the recess join together. Do not use too much force. Works better with a flex extension. Begin by gently creating some king of a groove where the metal will be cut. Do not push too hard. Use 3/4 to full speed. For the upper part of the recess, turn the case on the other side. It is much easier to cut when Inside a fold then over it. To cut the sides of your SATA port window, just put the dremel disk in the middle of the line and slowly apply pressure, at max speed, until you have cut through the metal. Then when it finished, you can take out the piece of metal and there is your window. Now you might want to clean up with a sanding stone, I used the conic one. The reason is to soften the rough edges created by the cutting of metal.

The beauty of that mod? You can plug your bottom sata cables using the L shapes end, a very clean way to install SATA cables,

Some pics to show you how it looks (not perfect, it was my first take with a dremel, but not so bad after all)






There you go, you now have a fully E-ATX compatible computer case, especially those that are just a bit larger than regular ATX. As you can see, the G1.Sniper3 just barelly fits Inside the 400R. With the mod, it now can be fully used.

To get a better look, I could use some C-shaped automotive strips. But if you take examples from Inside the case, there is only bare metal where your 8-pins CPU power plug is coming out.

Next mod: cutout the left side panel and make it a see-through window like more expensive case.
Edited by MOG Hammer - 5/19/13 at 3:36pm
post #3522 of 4610
Quote:
Originally Posted by pc-illiterate View Post

hammer, i stated long ago in this thread almost exactly that. the carbide series are good cases. if you have a dremel and drill, and aint skeered, these are great foundations for modding. they arent fantastic cases until you break out the mods!

The carbide cases are begging for modders. They do not cost too much money, and they already have all the required features for cable management. Now I just bought my dremel yesterday (Mastercraft model, works great, it did go very well for my first simple mod), it is a 100 pièces for only 59.99$, and it comes with the flex extension. Do not go with Dremel brand. They cost much more and still have less stuff that comes with it. They are not better than the one I got. But still avoid those that are sold for like 15$, like the JobMate models. In the end, buying too cheap might end up costing more in repairs and replacements. JobMate only has 1 year warranty, mastercraft has 3 year. For those living outside Canada, you might find good models that does not cost as much as Dremel. DO not buy cheap, but do not buy too expensive, especially if it is your first one.

Of course if you already have a Dremel branded that still works in a good state, do not hesitate to use it!
post #3523 of 4610
Quote:
Originally Posted by xupthree60 View Post

comes with 2 front and one rear. there are 2 open on the top, 2 open on the side, 1 open on the bottom, and 2 open on the hdd cages (if you can fit them with your video card).

Where were you planning on using the sp120s? You will probably find the stock h100 fans louder than you like and want to put the sp120s on the h100.

My H100 is on max setting, you can count on an handfull of time where you will actually hear them. They will only go up to max if the water temperature reaches a certain point.

Your new SP120s could be use on the side Windows, or just behind the drive cages, if your video card is not too long (usually you should have enough space)
post #3524 of 4610
Just ordered my 500R black from amazon for $94.99, first time ordering cases online, lol, can't imagine how big the box will be tongue.gif
FXy
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FXy
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Surf-Pro
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intel core i5-3317u Microsoft Surface pro intel HD graphics 4000 4gb ddr3 
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samsung ssd windows 8.1 pro 10.6 multi touch cover touch 
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
Athlon ll X4 635 Foxconn 785G AM3 Radion HD 4200 4Gb 
Hard DriveOptical DriveOSMonitor
wd 750 GB SATA 3 7200 rpm HP SuperMulti DVD Burner Windows 7 Home premium 64bit Viewsonic 21" 
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post #3525 of 4610
I'm planning a 500R build soon...

Anyone have an idea if Noctua A15s will fit in the top mount location as well as that of the rear exhaust?

post #3526 of 4610
Quote:
Originally Posted by garf333 View Post

I'm planning a 500R build soon...

Anyone have an idea if Noctua A15s will fit in the top mount location as well as that of the rear exhaust?


Not without a little modding, since the 500R is suited to accomodate 2x120 or 2x140 mm fans in the top
post #3527 of 4610
In that case, I might as well go with 3x NF A14s instead, or maybe just AF140s to keep the black color.

Thanks a lot! Really appreciated.
post #3528 of 4610
will the xspc ex 140 rad fit on the back?
Megatron
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Megatron
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CM Storm Trigger Lepa G1000 NZXT H630 CM Storm Inferno 
Mouse PadAudioOtherOther
CM Storm Logitech 2.1 System Custom Lighting Cooler Master SGH-6000-KK5R1 Circumaural Storm ... 
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post #3529 of 4610
Quote:
Originally Posted by MOG Hammer View Post

I did it, very simple mod. You will need a dremel to cut out the 45 degrees recessed area, long enough to cover all the 5 lower sata ports.

Use some masking tape while the motherboard is still Inside the case, place that tape on the recession slope, and make two marks on the tape with a felt tip pen (a good small Sharpie will do a great job) at each end of the sata port area, leaving some additional space at the ends, to facilitate sata cable connections. Then take everything outside the case, and I mean everything. EMpty your case until it is back to when you pulled it out of its shipping box. You must know that since you'll be cutting metal, there will be some metal dust and scrap.

Use any good rotary tool with reinforced cutting disks to cut out the metal. While your case is empty, you should put some more masking tape to cover the area you will cut, draw with the felt tip pen some line to help you guide your cut.

On mine mine I began in the interior of the case, cutting where the motherboard tray and the recess join together. Do not use too much force. Works better with a flex extension. Begin by gently creating some king of a groove where the metal will be cut. Do not push too hard. Use 3/4 to full speed. For the upper part of the recess, turn the case on the other side. It is much easier to cut when Inside a fold then over it. To cut the sides of your SATA port window, just put the dremel disk in the middle of the line and slowly apply pressure, at max speed, until you have cut through the metal. Then when it finished, you can take out the piece of metal and there is your window. Now you might want to clean up with a sanding stone, I used the conic one. The reason is to soften the rough edges created by the cutting of metal.

The beauty of that mod? You can plug your bottom sata cables using the L shapes end, a very clean way to install SATA cables,

Some pics to show you how it looks (not perfect, it was my first take with a dremel, but not so bad after all)






There you go, you now have a fully E-ATX compatible computer case, especially those that are just a bit larger than regular ATX. As you can see, the G1.Sniper3 just barelly fits Inside the 400R. With the mod, it now can be fully used.

To get a better look, I could use some C-shaped automotive strips. But if you take examples from Inside the case, there is only bare metal where your 8-pins CPU power plug is coming out.

Next mod: cutout the left side panel and make it a see-through window like more expensive case.

Nice one. You can also be more subtle about it if you want or you don't like showing a hole in the recess part of the case.



That's actually four SATA slots being used you just can't see the cut in the recess where the lower cables come through because the cables above hide it.

And damn you don't realize how wide your motherboard is until you have a case like this that has a recessed motherboard tray.
post #3530 of 4610
Quote:
Originally Posted by sgtgates View Post

will the xspc ex 140 rad fit on the back?

It should fit, they even provided holes for a 140 mm fan at the back to replace the 120 mm that shipped with it
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