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Corsair Carbide Series Owners Club - Page 402

Poll Results: Which One(s) Do you Own?

This is a multiple choice poll
  • 14% of voters (91)
    200R
  • 22% of voters (135)
    300R
  • 18% of voters (112)
    400R
  • 46% of voters (283)
    500R
612 Total Votes  
post #4011 of 4610
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dynamo11 View Post

I got my new 500r in today, after installing all my gear from my old case to the new one I went to turn it on and... nothing. I think my front panel IO might be busted, any thoughts on this, is this a common occurrence for the 500r?

The best way to check this is to jump the appropriate pins on the motherboard (where the two wires from the power button connect, you can do it with a paper clip) and thereby take the case's front panel out of the equation. The rest is obvious - if it still doesn't start up, something else is wrong.

Also worth noting, most boards have a standby LED to let you know that they are receiving power and OK to boot. Make sure that's on before you even bother with this, if your board has one.

EDIT: Nevermind, I see your post about having a startup button on the board. Still may not be the fault of the front panel, but it seems likely.
Edited by wampastompa - 1/6/14 at 9:42pm
post #4012 of 4610
I'm glad to find that this thread exists, because I have some problems and a lot to say about my 300R. I've had it for just over one year and I have had issues (some solved, others not so much).


I'll share a solved problem first - nothing fancy, but it was a quirk with this case that I had to take care of:

My headphones kept popping out of the front audio jack. This was a small, but very annoying issue. They'd pop out halfway so that only one side was getting signal. I was able to narrow this down to the jack on the front panel not being flush (it is sunk in a bit, set behind behind rather thick plastic). I was able to solve this problem with an electric drill and a countersink attachment. I used the shallowest countersink I could find and drilled straight into the hole (with the front of the case taken off so that the jack wouldn't be damaged, obviously). This removed enough material and allowed the headphone jack to work normally.

Next, I have a recurring intermittent problem that has been very difficult to diagnose:

For the entire time I've had the case, there has been an issue where plugging any device into the front panel caused an immediate crash. This did not happen with any consistency, but at first I attributed it to bad audio drivers because it was always happening when I tried to plug in my headphones. But then it also happened with USB and anything else, so it was a mystery to me. I assumed some sort of defect in the front panel but was too lazy to do anything about it especially since I'm not good with that sort of thing and had no idea if I was right. I only determined the actual cause recently.

After the problem had been relatively infrequent for a while, I had all but forgotten about it when it started happening frequently again this winter. Gradually I realized that this was an important observation, but I had no idea what variable had changed. The answer came on me suddenly when I was talking about how I don't use a humidifier, because of my allergies. Besides being bad for dust mites, dryness also promotes static electricity, which turns out to be the culprit! I have since been in the habit of touching connectors to a metal surface on the case before sticking them into their ports. I have had no further problems, and I'm not worried about the damage those surges may have been doing since I just finished a new build. I would still like to ditch this procedure, so my hope is that someone can lend insight about whether there could be some sort of bad ground in the front panel.

Other thoughts:

- The doors on this case are a huge pain. Coming from Antec for my last build, where it was just basically a single pivot, this method is more secure but at times extremely frustrating. I've gotten much better at it over time, but in the beginning it's very difficult to get all of the slots in. Every time I thought I had it, one was popped out and I had to start over. These days it takes me one attempt, two if I'm not paying attention and mess it up - still, it shouldn't be that hard.

- I never thought I'd say this, but there are too many fan slots and too many vents on this case. I have 140mm fans, I have tried running all of them in a logical way but it's just too many. At best, you end up with 4 x 140mm intake, 2 x 140mm & 1 x 120mm exhaust. There isn't really any other way that makes sense, and it leaves such a huge difference in intake and exhaust that the case actually makes a resonant "wub" sound from pressure building up and escaping. It's bad. I ended up disconnecting the side intakes and the front-top exhaust (which makes very little sense to begin with). One of the things I liked when I bought the case was the potential for great airflow, but it only allows for really bizarre setups. I chose instead to just plug up some holes and use it like a normal case.

- I think it's pretty silly that this case comes with a dust screen on the front, and one under the PSU, but then has a giant gaping hole in the top. Even with 140mm exhaust fans mounted there, it collects dust. The mesh is larger than the fan slots, so the airflow will never be enough to stop that from happening. I bought some magnetic dust screens for the side intakes, but there is still the issue of the top mesh. I'm hoping to mod the case or just find/make something that will fit over that perfectly, with just some holes for the fans. Just something to block airflow through that mesh, without looking awful. Suggestions would be appreciated.

- I love all of the holes for cable management, it's fairly easy to keep this case clean and organized.

- The hard drive racks are pretty cool, but ultimately pointless. I'm not hot-swapping drives all the time, few desktop users are. It's nice to not have to use hardware, and it's nice that the orientation of the drives frees up some space, but it also creates problems. Having sideways drives means that SATA cables get all bunched up in the side of the case, so you basically need to have right-angle connectors (but then they're blocking each other, so it's just a headache).

- The dust screen on the front of the case is hard to clean. You either need to clean it from the front with a vacuum (doesn't work well), or bend the tabs that hold the metal grate around it. It's obvious that it's meant to be removable, but those tabs are annoying and they will eventually break from the constant bending back and forth. Again, this is an area where my cheap old Antec case beat Corsair.

---

I like this case, but the only reason I bought it originally was because it's so large for a mid tower. I had just purchased a new AMD video card, and shortly thereafter discovered that it's massiveness would not be accommodated by just any case. Still, didn't want to make the jump to full. I'd say I've been happy with it overall, there are just a few mild quirks that bother me.

Edits for spelling etc. (sorry for the long post)
Edited by wampastompa - 1/6/14 at 11:28pm
post #4013 of 4610
Quote:
Originally Posted by qweebo83 View Post

theres a video on youtube by this guy that has done it (immac job by the way) i followed his instructions.
I used a dremel tool to cut the tabs out (**** tool thats why it too me so long)

Dremel ($40 AUS) or u can get cheaper ones, acrylic sheet cut to fit (10" x 13" 2mm thickness) $4 AUS, Double sided tape $6 AUS

Where did you get the Acrylic so cheap? How thick Acrylic did you use? I'm in Aus too (Melbourne) but what I've found is a little more expensive. Looking to use either 3mm or 4.5mm thickness.

After the windows done, I'm just waiting for my gear to arrive to do custom sleeving and then I'll be saving like mad for my custom loop.
post #4014 of 4610
Quote:
Originally Posted by combatant3219 View Post

Where did you get the Acrylic so cheap? How thick Acrylic did you use? I'm in Aus too (Melbourne) but what I've found is a little more expensive. Looking to use either 3mm or 4.5mm thickness.

After the windows done, I'm just waiting for my gear to arrive to do custom sleeving and then I'll be saving like mad for my custom loop.

Hey buddy

i got it from

Acrylic Sheet Form
13 garden Drv, Tullamarine
03 93300444

Everyone raves on about bunnings having it. BS they do. All they have is have one thickness and in 1 size sheet. This place has any thickness and any colour you want. i got it cut 10" x 13" clear acrylic 2mm thickness. - PERFECT!
post #4015 of 4610
Thanks!

I take it you went and picked it up? I live in South Eastern Suburbs and work 9-5 so there's no where I've found really close that can cut it to size for me and I can get there to pick it up. I can get it cheap but then need to get it posted to me, so have to account for postage cost.

I found the same thing at Bunnings. I guess I could try Masters but it'll probably be just the same.
post #4016 of 4610
no problems

dont bother with masters, they are just as bad
i happened to stumble across this place in the yellow pages
post #4017 of 4610
hey guys!

so my new build featured the corsair carbide 500r and it is a fantastic case i must say.

i just finished up the build which included corsair's h110 AIO cpu cooler. made a build thread in the case mods section. worth taking a peek

http://www.overclock.net/t/1457667/h110-in-a-corsair-carbide-500r-w-radiator-up-top/0_100

mods can all be seen in my sig in the 2014 build.

also did full noctua pwm fans for full speed customization. this thing is super quiet when it needs to be. and moves some serious air when needed.

just wanted to say i couldn't have done it without the help of all the great guys here sharing all this great information. i'll throw up a couple pics if they'll ever upload..

1603508_10201470648958387_509193009_o.jpg?oh=58c70dfced7866c7790d608675b01685&oe=52CFFD8D
post #4018 of 4610
Hey guys, do any of you know if you can fit a 38mm thick radiator in the top of a 500R? The Corsair H105 is tempting me, if it will fit.
Define
(20 items)
 
   
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
Intel Core i7-3770K @ 4.3GHz Gigabyte GA-Z77X-UD5H ASUS GeForce GTX 980 Ti STRIX 6GB @ 1500MHz 2x8GB Kingston HyperX Fury DDR3 @ 2400MHz 
Hard DriveHard DriveCoolingCooling
Samsung 840 Pro 256GB Crucial MX100 512GB Noctua NH-U14S 3x Noctua NF-A14 FLX 
OSMonitorMonitorKeyboard
Windows 10 Pro 64-bit Dell U2713HM Dell U2312HM Ducky Shine 3 Year of the Snake (MX Brown) 
PowerCaseMouseMouse Pad
EVGA SuperNOVA P2 650W Fractal Design Define R5 Black Mionix Naos 7000 SteelSeries QcK 
AudioAudioAudioOther
Sennheiser HD 650 Fostex TH-X00 Ebony Parasound Zdac TP-LINK Archer T9E  
CPURAMHard DriveOS
2x Intel Xeon E5-2650 (16c/32t) @ 2.8GHz 16x8GB Kingston ECC DDR3 @ 1866MHz 2x Samsung SM863 960GB ESXi 6.5u1 
Power
2x 460W Platinum 
CPURAMHard DriveHard Drive
Intel Xeon E5-2603 v3 (6c/6t) @ 1.6GHz 4x8GB Kingston ECC DDR4 @ 2133MHz 2x Samsung PM863 120GB (mirrored cache) 6x WD Red 3TB (RAIDZ2) 
OSPower
FreeNAS 11 550W Silver 
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(20 items)
 
   
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
Intel Core i7-3770K @ 4.3GHz Gigabyte GA-Z77X-UD5H ASUS GeForce GTX 980 Ti STRIX 6GB @ 1500MHz 2x8GB Kingston HyperX Fury DDR3 @ 2400MHz 
Hard DriveHard DriveCoolingCooling
Samsung 840 Pro 256GB Crucial MX100 512GB Noctua NH-U14S 3x Noctua NF-A14 FLX 
OSMonitorMonitorKeyboard
Windows 10 Pro 64-bit Dell U2713HM Dell U2312HM Ducky Shine 3 Year of the Snake (MX Brown) 
PowerCaseMouseMouse Pad
EVGA SuperNOVA P2 650W Fractal Design Define R5 Black Mionix Naos 7000 SteelSeries QcK 
AudioAudioAudioOther
Sennheiser HD 650 Fostex TH-X00 Ebony Parasound Zdac TP-LINK Archer T9E  
CPURAMHard DriveOS
2x Intel Xeon E5-2650 (16c/32t) @ 2.8GHz 16x8GB Kingston ECC DDR3 @ 1866MHz 2x Samsung SM863 960GB ESXi 6.5u1 
Power
2x 460W Platinum 
CPURAMHard DriveHard Drive
Intel Xeon E5-2603 v3 (6c/6t) @ 1.6GHz 4x8GB Kingston ECC DDR4 @ 2133MHz 2x Samsung PM863 120GB (mirrored cache) 6x WD Red 3TB (RAIDZ2) 
OSPower
FreeNAS 11 550W Silver 
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post #4019 of 4610
Quote:
Originally Posted by twerk View Post

Hey guys, do any of you know if you can fit a 38mm thick radiator in the top of a 500R? The Corsair H105 is tempting me, if it will fit.

Unfortunately not, 38mm is too thick. I couldn't fit an EX240 radiator, which is 35.5mm. To mount the 38mm radiator, you'd either have to do it externally, or cut and bend the panel at the top. Neither options are preferable in my opinion, so it'd be best to go for a slimmer radiator.
    
CPUMotherboardGraphicsGraphics
Intel Core i5 2500K Gigabyte GA-Z68XP-UD3P MSI GeForce GTX 970 OC "Reference Fan" MSI GeForce GTX 970 OC "Reference Fan" 
RAMHard DriveOptical DriveCooling
Corsair Vengeance DDR3 1600Mhz 16Gb Samsung 830 256Gb SSD Lite-On iHAS220 Be Quiet! Shadow Rock Slim CPU Cooler 
PowerCase
Corsair AX860i Corsair Carbide 500R 
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CPUMotherboardGraphicsGraphics
Intel Core i5 2500K Gigabyte GA-Z68XP-UD3P MSI GeForce GTX 970 OC "Reference Fan" MSI GeForce GTX 970 OC "Reference Fan" 
RAMHard DriveOptical DriveCooling
Corsair Vengeance DDR3 1600Mhz 16Gb Samsung 830 256Gb SSD Lite-On iHAS220 Be Quiet! Shadow Rock Slim CPU Cooler 
PowerCase
Corsair AX860i Corsair Carbide 500R 
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post #4020 of 4610
If I remove the HDD bays from the 400R will it lose all its structural integrity? I want to mount as many radiators as I can in mine

I've looked at it before and do understand that I'll need to drill out the rivets
Edited by Archea47 - 1/9/14 at 1:40pm
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