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TEC cooling for a body armor? - Page 2

post #11 of 15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by warejon9 View Post
Also could you possibly create the back of the armor into some form of heatsink? Then you'll have a huge surface area to dissapate heat, and if the person is being physically active, it will be getting some airflow.
Actually yes, I could!

I could actually build a whole rear backplate made out of aluminium, fold it in some sort of fins, and then bolt the composite plates onto it.

I would be able to lighten the gauge of kevlar, which is the most expensive of the three materials, and partially replace it with aluminium.

This way:



Being light gray aluminium, dark gray kevlar, black carbon fibre, and transparent polycarbonate.


I think I haven't explained it, but why that layout?

1) Polycarbonate protects from light impacts, preserves the looks, and absorbs energy that could shatter inner layers' epoxy cast.
2)Carbon fibre adds a slick look while greatly improving resistance vs penetrating impacts.
3)Kevlar protects the body from any carbon fibre breakage that could lead to shattering of it, and thus preventing epoxied fibres to 'nail' the wearer's body.
4)Microfibre vest allows transpiration to the cooling circuitry while protecting the skin against the constant friction against the suit.


Passive cooling is an idea I like. But it would need rather big intakes to function, thus being bulky and leave lots of parts exposed. Another option would be molding the air conducts on the armor itself, leaving the microfibre vest exposed to the air duct. Then adding a small fan on the top of the duct, and adding dust filters on the duct intake would be more than enough to cool the body. The ducts could be so flat that they would be only visible upon close inspection.

I will need a 3D model of all this ideas being exposed here... Hand drawn is the quickest version. Unless I learn Blender


Veeery thanks guys!! I will do some calculations on densities, volumes, and other parameters to determine an approximate chestplate weight. Let's hope I can keep it under 10kg. After all, it's not servoassisted
   
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post #12 of 15
Are you trying to make it bulletproof?, as I think if you do you don't want to lower Kevlar thickness.
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post #13 of 15
Quote:
Originally Posted by Artikbot View Post
I am no US Military employee, and I have no 320942304023840 bazillion dollars to spend, so I have to build from the very beginning a system that works, and can work out of a battery
as opposed to what? its not like they hand them out anyway and no need to get all defensive, im just saying that if they presumably did spend all that money on R&Ding this then why not use what they found out?

using tec for a portable system has some major problems since human body puts out around 600 btu/hr when just walking around and up to 2500 btu/hr during exertion. This means that given the typical efficiency of tecs you would need to use minimum 250w unit (which would lose its worth the moment you do anything more strenuous then just walking, given the weight of the suit maybe not even that).. for reference that kind of load will empty a typical car battery in 2 hours. So basically this will only work if you carry around 10 pounds worth of battery per an hour of operation time.
post #14 of 15
I'd recommend that if you're gonna be cooling yourself, the easiest way is to cool your neck area. A lot of blood flows to your head, so if you can cool the blood going in that direction, you'll let your own natural water cooling system do the distribution

That said, I would say using good ventilation is more important and more feasible


Quote:
Originally Posted by Artikbot View Post
Yeah, that means it's hot as hell inside, because the composite materials conduct heat like crap.
conducting heat really well usually means it's good for cooling you off, unless the outside temperature is above your body temperature
Edited by chronostorm - 9/26/11 at 4:10pm
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post #15 of 15
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by hazarada View Post
as opposed to what? its not like they hand them out anyway and no need to get all defensive, im just saying that if they presumably did spend all that money on R&Ding this then why not use what they found out? .
I didn't get defensive man, chill!! I do this for the lulz, not going to the war, or trying to be superman, or whatever... This is just to have some fun


@chrono: You're right. But that ain't gonna solve the heat in the back/chest, I will need vents for that :/

By the way, found the cloth I will be using, and I've also came up with another composite option.

Been reading a bit on tactical armor (mil-spec) and seemingly you want woven kevlar, but not epoxy cast one, as it would brittle and the ashes would just stick onto your body just as if you weren't wearing anything.

Will go with a hard epoxidic resin cast on a light kevlar layer (2mm) for the outer layer, and then all in the inside about 8-10mm of woven, non epoxy cast, 29-kevlar cloth. 5mm neoprene coating on the inside to preserve body heat and protect against rubbing.


Why this decision?


1) Easier to build. I can have the cloth for relatively cheap ($28/m^2)

2) Easier to mold. I can have a plaster mold, place the top coating, cast it, then lay the fibres, press them, cut them, sew the pile, and bolt it on the top layer. Even easier, I can just sew the neoprene onto the top coating, and insert the woven fiber between the top layer and the neoprene with adequate pressure. Then retighten the sewn pack with bolts, ties, or even sew it again onto the top layer. I can even cast the ventilation on the vest itself.

3) Greater protection. The more shatter-resistant kevlar, the more protection the suit offers. 10mm of kevlar together with an initial scratch resistant layer provides at least grade II protection, maybe III-A depending on how tight the fibres are woven and how hard the panels are pressed to each other.

4)Lighter. For obvious reasons, less material=less weight. It is already heavy on its own, no need to make it even heavier.


This is one of the options for the fabric (just a single layer, consider at least 12 layers of it to provide a proper degree of protection):

http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...dProduct=10756


180g/m^2 seems like a decent degree of protection. Not the highest I've seen, but I ain't gonna go to war either.


All this wall is after reading fabrizziop's post, he has a very good point. Kevlar and carbon fabrics are the main form of protection, so they should not be neglected.
   
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