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[Project} Home Built TV Speakers - Page 4

Poll Results: What wood for the baffle

Poll expired: Oct 25, 2011  
  • 75% (12)
    Red Oak
  • 12% (2)
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  • 12% (2)
    Cedar
16 Total Votes  
post #31 of 39
Thread Starter 
its on the same page as the 70watt for $60 you saw. http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=300-805

been using that one for my sub for maybe 4 years just fine. maybe you should just junk the busted jbl and start a project of your own. rolleyes.gifbiggrin.gifthumb.gif
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post #32 of 39
Port is too small....

You aren't xmax limited until ~17W above ~60hz and can actually push that thing into non-linearity above ~60hz tuning frequency to like 40-80W in transients. Technically speaking, you should keep the power to inside of 10-20W to protect from damage from unloaded frequencies below ~60hz. The design can tolerate up to ~20W without mechanical damage right down to 20hz and below (not that you will be able to hear anything, just that it won't kill itself). High pass filtering it would open up some more dB headroom.

Anything over 10m/s can get noisy and the following is charted port velocity at just 10W input:

Selection_077.png 21k .png file
Edited by mdocod - 1/15/12 at 12:01am
     
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post #33 of 39
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by mdocod View Post

Port is too small....
You aren't xmax limited until ~17W above ~60hz and can actually push that thing into non-linearity above ~60hz tuning frequency to like 40-80W in transients. Technically speaking, you should keep the power to inside of 10-20W to protect from damage from unloaded frequencies below ~60hz. The design can tolerate up to ~20W without mechanical damage right down to 20hz and below (not that you will be able to hear anything, just that it won't kill itself). High pass filtering it would open up some more dB headroom.
Anything over 10m/s can get noisy and the following is charted port velocity at just 10W input:
Selection_077.png 21k .png file

eh-smiley.gif

thanks for going threw all that trouble but these have been built and running for nearly 3 months. they haven't given me any problems. port noise is non existent as there isn't enough x-max on the little 3" woofer to push enough air to make noise. they only get 10watt power that my tv puts out so im not worrying about that.

2011-10-25113420.jpg
Edited by bobfig - 1/15/12 at 12:23am
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post #34 of 39
The simulation doesn't "lie." Your port size is capable of causing significant audible noise. If you can't hear it the way the speakers are being used, then it doesn't matter so never mind. (appears to be a rear facing port? the close positioning to the wall probably helps tune down the box a bit lower and eliminate some noise.) Keep in mind though, that your TV may have a high pass filter in place so you may get much better performance from a line-out to a nice little chip amp (they are cheap, don't worry). Also, Those little "3"" drivers have a lot of excursion capability. Just because they a "small" does not mean they can't overwhelm a 1" port.

I took the liberty to show that guesswork builds are not generally going to be very flat (something i myself have only learned very recently, so please don't feel bad)

The attached is a simulation of your speaker build. There is no baffle step loss (google it) simulated into this, but you probably don't have too much with the placement of your speakers against the wall and one of them even being somewhat "corner loaded" so it's not a big deal....

360

Now.... The interesting thing (as I have learned recently) is that through proper simulation, this relatively un-flat speaker, could have been made much flatter at (likely) no significant change in cost.

As you can see in the simulation above, the x-over is not effecting the woofer the way the calculated x-over values were expected to. This is because the component values chosen were based on trying to get a ~3800hz x-over on 8 ohm drivers. The problem is, the woofer is not 8ohm at 3800hz, The woofer voice coil does not act like a normal resistor, but instead, like an inductor. The result is rising impedance with frequency.

Here's the trace of the impedance curve (ignore the large peak at Fs, it would be different with box loading anyways and it does not effect the X-over)
374

----

With that in mind, I suggest the following change (lowest cost change with greatest benefit):

407

You can use a cheap low inductance 10W 8Ohm resistor and an electrolytic non-polar cap for the zobel network. Nothing fancy needed here since it does not carry any signal to the speaker, it just corrects the behavior of the x-over network by correcting the impedance that it "sees." The value of "zobel C1" is not super critical, something close to 10uF will work well. (5-15uf range, I like the way ~10uF sims out best personally).




Regards,
Eric
Edited by mdocod - 1/16/12 at 2:16am
     
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post #35 of 39
Quote:
Originally Posted by bobfig View Post

its on the same page as the 70watt for $60 you saw. http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=300-805
been using that one for my sub for maybe 4 years just fine. maybe you should just junk the busted jbl and start a project of your own. rolleyes.gifbiggrin.gifthumb.gif

Not a bad idea, but the enclosure is like new and the woofer is also in top notch shape. I found out that in this particular JBL sub the built in amps would give up after so long. Found out a bit too late this to be true or I would have still been under warranty and got it fixed. Anyway, as said I ended up buying another JBL sub-250watts and it's been going for at least 7 years now without a hiccup. But I still want to fix the old one and have two (not that the bass doesn't shake the house now...lol...). And it figures the amp is the most expensive piece. $120 for the amp you suggest is really a good price. I was hoping to get something about $60-$80. But tax time is almost here and I'll probably get the $120 one. (Actually I want a new graphics card first, maybe I'll get enough back to afford both...)

Wow! I see we have some genius folks here that know their speaker stuff. 'Mdocod' is the sound man for sure! thumb.gif
post #36 of 39
Quote:
Originally Posted by RCPilotJAE View Post

Wow! I see we have some genius folks here that know their speaker stuff. 'Mdocod' is the sound man for sure! thumb.gif

While I appreciate the kind words, I am actually a rank amateur. As it turns out, you have to know a lot before you start to see the big picture of how much you don't know. With that in mind, how much of what is said in the "home audio" part of this forum do you think has any semblance of truth?
     
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post #37 of 39
Amazing job man... hope you enjoy them.
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post #38 of 39
Quote:
Originally Posted by mdocod View Post

While I appreciate the kind words, I am actually a rank amateur. As it turns out, you have to know a lot before you start to see the big picture of how much you don't know. With that in mind, how much of what is said in the "home audio" part of this forum do you think has any semblance of truth?

No problem, I've been around electronics and all things related all my life and I can tell the real from the BS'ers. I think I've dabbled in every aspect of electronics at some point or another too. Being a Amateur Radio Operator since I was a child (first Novice & Tech license at 10 & 12) then a bit of growing up and settling down again brought me to Extra Class (while the Morse code was still enforced for the license). And funny enough the only "electronics job" I ever held was in the service (3rd echelon generator repair). Tried to find away into the power plants at Niagara Falls when I got out, but never did. And then the second time I ever got an electronics job was a 'mom & pop' computer store I owned for 6 years. (Did well too until CompUSA decided to build right down the street from me....) Anyway, I can vouch there's a lot to know when it comes to speakers, sound, etc, etc. And that's only one small area of home audio (or home theater as I like to call it). Self taught is just as good as school taught in this area, IMO. So the semblance of truth? As said, I can spot the BS'ers from someone that has tried to learn a thing or two. wink.gif And I think it's a good thing to have a general knowledge of electronics when it comes to computers....
post #39 of 39
Nice little speakers. I just built some 3-way studio monitors this past Nov. and Dec. out of premium white oak, bout $800 each in the end, ($200 is just wood) including a few tools. Everyone said the same thing... "For half that you could of bought some pre-mades..." So what? How could I have learned anything? And at a measly 35 watt per cabinet, they are LOUD, CLEAN, and BEAUTIFUL with that cherry stain. Only problem with real wood over MDF is environmental problems. Humidity, temp, etc... The wood moves, and I have cracks to fix. frown.gif

Good job tho, i would look into an amp, or an active subwoofer for them lows. smile.gif
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