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ac unit chiller

post #1 of 23
Thread Starter 
hey i am about to buy a wcing loop ( looking at the RX360.. )
also looking to try something colder ( DICE ect.. )

also some threads on Extreme systems.. like this one
but wanting to go sub zero.. ( not sure how far though for now i know DICE/phase/LN2 can go alot colder. but atleast this i dont have to go out and buy dice/ln2 ( still looking at phase units )

gonna be using this on 2 or 3 benchings rigs.. ( x48 and 990fxa-ud3 ) and some gpus..
and yeah if i did do this they will be insulated

bout anyway a few questions.
if i got a old AC unit ( not sure if one in the shed works... if not one from ebay or paper locally what do i have to do to it so it can chill the water?

the ac unit replaces the rad? or leave it in the loop?
eg. here he has just two tubes ( in and out of course ) sitting in the res. with the AC units evap coil?



how well will something like this do benching?
i have a few cpus and gpus ect.. getting this/other cooling gear so can go higher.. ( when finish typing this gonna put q6600 in x48 board and see how it goes haha )

around what ac unit should i be looking for? how many BTU?
and around what temp. should i be expecting from a chiller?


    
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post #2 of 23
I'd like to know this too. ^^ I hear phase change cooling is expensive...but if you can just take an old air conditioner and run some copper to your cpu or to chill some water that would be easy. And I'm not talking sub zero either. If i could just open the air conditioner case and bend something to touch my cpu and get at all below ambient temperature that would be sweet.
post #3 of 23
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by paid2kill View Post
I'd like to know this too. ^^ I hear phase change cooling is expensive...but if you can just take an old air conditioner and run some copper to your cpu or to chill some water that would be easy. And I'm not talking sub zero either. If i could just open the air conditioner case and bend something to touch my cpu and get at all below ambient temperature that would be sweet.
mmmm thats what i was thinking... cheaper easyer.. just not as cold lol
im looking for faily low temps.. though if i can get sub zero... from something that im going to get ( minus the AC unit ) i have the rest
    
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post #4 of 23
Thread Starter 
ok let me rephrase this.. kinder doesn't make sense even to me o.O?

1. is it as simple as removing the evap coil, moving it into a res, and adding pipes back to were they were?
(( im wanting to keep it in one well.. box.. to keep it all together.. proably in something like a open cabnet? depending the size ect of course. ))
2. if i have to move the evap coil, do i have to use copper pipes or some other tubing? or do anything elese to the unit if i have to cut off the coil and then reattach it away from where it was?

sorry for stupid questions.. still learnning and reading up on stuff.
    
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post #5 of 23
http://forums.extremeoverclocking.co...d.php?t=101902

PROPS .... to Drewmeister . Thanks Man !


This should cover it A to Z

Worst part is bending the copper to get the evap to go in the res. DON'T snap them or "game over"

Try to pick the AC unit he recommends . They seem to be the easiest to mod.

Of course , you would need to condensate proof your mother board .

If you use this set up , your entire water loop(except block) goes away . Water rads are not made for chillers.

Good Luck
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post #6 of 23
A project like this can be as simple as you want, or as complicated as you want, it all depends on what you want to do.

At the simplest, you simply move the evap so that it sits in a container of fluid. There are two types of evaps, one that looks like a radiator like you pictured in your first pic, and a coil type, which is what you appear to be talking about. It all depends on the AC unit, as to which design it implements.

I built a chiller a while ago now, but have since moved on to LN2 benching, it can be quite fun and is a good introduction into the world of subzero. I could idle at -20c and load at -14c, until I really started pushing things.

Here is how my unit looks:


It used to be a portable a/c unit, which I stripped down. Inside that esky is the evap, which just sat ontop of the fam that my thermometer is sitting on. Under that is sitting the condensor, which is warm. I didn't have to cut any tubes or anything like that, I just carefuly bent the copper tubes so that I could dump the evap into the liquid. You have to be very careful with this, if you kink or snap the tube, then you'll need to get it brazed and regassed. Copper tube is quite easy to bend, you just have to be careful and take your time.

Here you can get a better look at my evap:


Basically, if you can't figure out what you need submerge into liquid, just look for what get's coldest when you open the a/c unit and give it a run. If it has a two fan setup or if you can remove the airflow from what you suspect is the evap (condensor needs aircooling) then you'll see the evap considerably frost up, that's what you need to submerge.

(btw, my bottom pic is a bad example of it running, you shouldn't get any icing up, I moved to a pure form of alcohol after that and got -26c in the liquid)
Edited by jjjc_93 - 9/25/11 at 4:28am
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post #7 of 23
If you guys want better cooling may I suggest covering the entire coil in coolant, ice is only at the best 0 degree's. The coil itself should get below 0 degrees. But only by 1 or 2 degrees.

How you guy's dont crimp the pipe's over so much they stop refrigerant flow I am impressed.
 
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post #8 of 23
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by jjjc_93 View Post
A project like this can be as simple as you want, or as complicated as you want, it all depends on what you want to do.

At the simplest, you simply move the evap so that it sits in a container of fluid. There are two types of evaps, one that looks like a radiator like you pictured in your first pic, and a coil type, which is what you appear to be talking about. It all depends on the AC unit, as to which design it implements.

I built a chiller a while ago now, but have since moved on to LN2 benching, it can be quite fun and is a good introduction into the world of subzero. I could idle at -20c and load at -14c, until I really started pushing things.

Here is how my unit looks:


It used to be a portable a/c unit, which I stripped down. Inside that esky is the evap, which just sat ontop of the fam that my thermometer is sitting on. Under that is sitting the condensor, which is warm. I didn't have to cut any tubes or anything like that, I just carefuly bent the copper tubes so that I could dump the evap into the liquid. You have to be very careful with this, if you kink or snap the tube, then you'll need to get it brazed and regassed. Copper tube is quite easy to bend, you just have to be careful and take your time.

Here you can get a better look at my evap:


Basically, if you can't figure out what you need submerge into liquid, just look for what get's coldest when you open the a/c unit and give it a run. If it has a two fan setup or if you can remove the airflow from what you suspect is the evap (condensor needs aircooling) then you'll see the evap considerably frost up, that's what you need to submerge.

(btw, my bottom pic is a bad example of it running, you shouldn't get any icing up, I moved to a pure form of alcohol after that and got -26c in the liquid)
sweet nice work
and yeah wanting to go colder.. but not sure.. this seamed like half way between dice ( bit more expensive straight up.. more so if i snap it haha ) but pretty sweet


Quote:
Originally Posted by flocko View Post
http://forums.extremeoverclocking.co...d.php?t=101902

PROPS .... to Drewmeister . Thanks Man !


This should cover it A to Z

Worst part is bending the copper to get the evap to go in the res. DON'T snap them or "game over"

Try to pick the AC unit he recommends . They seem to be the easiest to mod.

Of course , you would need to condensate proof your mother board .

If you use this set up , your entire water loop(except block) goes away . Water rads are not made for chillers.

Good Luck
thanks ill give it a read now and get back to you.
yeah of course have to insulate board ect. but yeah
ill have to look around at 2nd hand ( maby new ) units depending on prices and how powerful they are.
btw how much BTU or what should i be looking for in a ac unit for a chiller?
also how does everything go away? have to use a differnt pump i guess? lol that can pump the anti-freeze around?


Quote:
Originally Posted by ginger_nuts View Post
If you guys want better cooling may I suggest covering the entire coil in coolant, ice is only at the best 0 degree's. The coil itself should get below 0 degrees. But only by 1 or 2 degrees.

How you guy's dont crimp the pipe's over so much they stop refrigerant flow I am impressed.
just have to be faily straight with no/not many bends ?
    
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post #9 of 23
Great answers!!! I searched and searched and couldn't find that info. My gosh it really is that simple. Just plop an air conditioners evaporator in water. My last question is can you take water out of the equation and just have the evaporator come in contact with the cpu somehow?
post #10 of 23
Almost any size A/C will do what you want. Considering the computer will not be producing no more then say 1.1-1.3Kw of heat at max. But the true means of figuring it out would be calculate your heat load, ie. how much power the computer will be using then add 10%.
 
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