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Liquid Cooled Thermaltake Level 10GT Build - Page 3

Poll Results: Should I Go 580 SLI or Wait for Kepler Cards

 
  • 28% (9)
    Purchase 580 SLI NOW - GET ROCKIN'!
  • 71% (23)
    Keep 560 SLI - Wait it out
32 Total Votes  
post #21 of 65
Thread Starter 
Not a bad idea - I bought those little sticky heatsinks for those. Not sure if they will help, but they were like 3 bucks per card so I figured they couldn't hurt.
   
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post #22 of 65
Could you link me to that?
Thanks
    
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post #23 of 65
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post #24 of 65
Thread Starter 
I got started today doing the PSU and 5.25 bay covers out of acrylic. I purchased white prior to deciding to scrap the white and blue color scheme inside and going black and blue (paint that is - all tubing will be black.) Here is the space I will cover - it will extend just beyond the wire cut out (about 13" in length.) That silver piece to the left at the end of the mobo is for the UV cathode I will no longer be using on this build since the tubing will be black. I will use my LEDs only which is the lower PCB in this shot.

PSU_spot.JPG

I am building this at the office, but of course I did not bring my table saw in so I will have to cut the side and the top on separate days. I couldn't really tell the width of the top without first cutting the side. Here is the gap on the side of the PSU before the rivets - exactly 1/4" - the thickness of my acrylic sheet.

PSU_gap.JPG

I will also cut a piece to cover the 5.25 bay area (and cut holes for the tubing to pass through.)

Bay.JPG

Just a shot of the glue I will be using - love the name.

glue.JPG

My pre-wired LEDs came in from Oznium (great place for LEDs) I will decide which color to mount in the reservoir once I get everything powered up.

Oz_LEDs.JPG

I will post some more pics tomorrow of the acrylic mock up and the early paint results. I have to do some stencils for the comp name (Tiamat), the scorched earth overlay I will try on the acrylic and vid card cover, and the dragon itself.

Waiting on the mesh to make the vid card cover along with the new tubing and some other bits (seems like I keep adding bits!)

This being my first water build I will be swapping the GPUs onto the 240 and the CPU to the 120 rad. I assume this is best since the GPUs will generate more heat? I read this in another post - if this is an incorrect assumption please let me know. Kind of makes sense since my current Corsair water cooler is on a 120 rad.
   
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post #25 of 65
Thread Starter 
Got my acrylic all cut last night and did some test fitting this morning - looks good to me! The side piece below is just primer as I have a black that matches the interior pretty well. Will glue and clamp the pieces tonight and start painting in the AM.

box2.JPG

Notched the bay cover as well - the SATA area for my blu-ray player still needs to be cleaned up a bit, but overall fit is perfect. I will drill out holes for my water lines once I get the black tubing in and my pump back from Koolance (they received it this morning and tell me they will have an answer on whether they will fix it or send out a new one this afternoon.)

box1.JPG

Here is a side shot of both pieces in the rig.

box3.JPG
   
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post #26 of 65
That acrylic is looking really good! I have a ton of leftover acrylic but it's clear, so I'd have to paint it...got any tips for painting? This definitely looking like it will be happening in the near future for me smile.gif. Why not get left angle sata and a custom power connector to run the DVD drive cables behind the acrylic? I would do that just to finish up the super clean look.
    
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post #27 of 65
Thread Starter 
As far as painting - just use a good primer I am finding no issues painting over the smooth acrylic and getting the paint to adhere.

As for the drive bay - yes, that was my first thought except for how the case is designed there is no room to run 90s in there! I could have cut a different size and attach the acrylic at a different point, but the "ledge" at the bottom of the bay makes it easy to insert and then affix the sheet. With 90 degree cables they stick out about 1/2 inch which requires pushing the cover out, which makes it look a little silly (you would see an edge next to the bay.) Doing it this way ensures the acrylic, once painted, looks like it was factory made and installed. Plus, I am going to spend hours doing a clean sleeve job with the fancy MDPC sleeving so I don't mind those showing - also my tubing will be passing through so all in all I think this will still look clean.
   
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post #28 of 65
Awesome, I'll have to measure and cut that this weekend!

How are you going to mount the covers? Specifically the PSU one.
I'm thinking about doing the 5 1/4" cover, but I'll have to get grommets to run my reservoirs tubes...will make it look very clean as well! smile.gif
    
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post #29 of 65
Thread Starter 
I am not sure I will. For now the cover lays on the tab on top of the PSU and is fine as long as you don't move the system. I will probably leave it loose for now and see if I need a more permanent solution in the future. The fit is so tight now you cannot tell it isn't attached in any way. I may drill a small hole for a self-tapping screw from the back into the top portion and have a single or possible double screw connection from the back side.
   
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post #30 of 65
I was looking at the case and noticed the fan holes...maybe a very small l bracket of some kind? I'll look into it more when i do the cutting myself.

Also just got my XSPC Raystorm today...will install this weekend or maybe next after I order new rads. I'll take pics then too!
    
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