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The Deathadder Megathread - Page 17

post #161 of 2468
Quote:
Originally Posted by Scozzers View Post

=) Thank you.
Funnily enough I just recieved some hyperglides too. Took about a fortnight to arrive and came in an envelope from singapore lol (with no alcohol swab, I might add =/). I ordered them for different reasons though. I haven't noticed any dragging of the mouse underside and I reckon it's something that would be majorly noticable. I haven't put them on yet.
One thing I forgot to mention is that when I tried 450 dpi, I tried both with the drivers and without and ... it might just be me but .. it did seem to feel better without (driverless is generally the route I go anyway), so there's another avenue of testing for you XD
If, in the end, you decide there is no discernable difference, and you don't just play one game, then stick with 450 dpi. For the simple reason that there are quite a few games that use raw input where the in game sensitivity slider doesn't go low enough for 1800 dpi to be comfortable (which is why, once again I find my self on DA discussion threads). Also, there was one instance for me where 1800 dpi + low in game sens resulted in neg acceleration that was virtually eliminated when I dropped to 450 dpi. It was subsequently fixed but it was a pita at the time.
Um, I'd check how far it takes for a 180 not a 360, since that puts you exactly where you were looking in the first place and imho being able to do that doesn't have enough practical uses to justify raising your sensitivity to the point where you can achieve that in one swipe = )
Cheers again. Happy fragging.



Yeah I just got a new set in with no swab either. Seriously <3 hyperglide though biggrin.gif
post #162 of 2468
Thread Starter 
****! I've been MIA for a while and I'm back in action. Over the next few days I'll be going through this thread and picking out information that could be added to the wiki.

Additionally if anyone has any better pictures or things they want added please send me a PM.
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post #163 of 2468
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Penguana View Post

I just have have two quick questions about the 3.5g:
Firstly, I used to own one (for about a week, but it sadly had to be returned because of a faulty right click, that's not putting me off another on though) and I noticed that whilst it had a nice shape, the sides got slippery. Now I didn't really get a chance to game during that week, just general windows usage, but it was slippery in my hands. I just want to know whether people feel the 3.5g gets too slippery to use in game or not (it always felt like I was about to lose grip of the mouse but never did). I guess this is a preference based opinion, but still, do those who use their 3.5g feel it gets stupidly slippery when gaming?
Second question: I returned mine because of a faulty right click, but that isn't the only reason. I also found that the mouse seemed to heat up (get significantly warmer than it should from my hand resting on it), and it wasn't exactly comfortable or beneficial for my already slippery hands. Now, it was only truly noticeable on the area just above the pulsating logo, but surely one little LED wouldn't produce a warm (considerably warm) feeling on the top of the mouse. So would it have been a fault with mine, or is it a problem inherent with all deathadders because of the lights, and is it fixed in the black edition?
Thanks. This is probably the best place to ask this kind of question, so that's why I'm asking.

Hey buddy, I don't know if you're still reading this but I have some answers fory ou.

The sides of the normal deathadder are shiny and will attract grime no matter how clean you are. Switching to the Black Edition fixes this as the sides are rubberized. I probably only have to clean the Black Edition sides once every 3 weeks as opposed to multiple times a day for the standard edition deathadder.

With regards to heat my normal edition also had this. Try turning off the LED with the razer drivers. If you're against razers software you can always open up the mouse and yank out the led. Problem solved.

Also, the standard edition heats up easier than the black edition. It's purely a matter of the shell; I use 3G V3 internals with a disconnected LED in the Black Edition shell and have no heating problems whatsoever.
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post #164 of 2468
Quote:
Originally Posted by hella View Post

****! I've been MIA for a while and I'm back in action. Over the next few days I'll be going through this thread and picking out information that could be added to the wiki.
Additionally if anyone has any better pictures or things they want added please send me a PM.

I followed your lead and stuck my old 1800dpi internals into a black edition shell when the shell to the 1800dpi broke. Some pics and stuff 6 or so pages ago might be useful. wink.gif

I've got more (and higher quality) if wanted.
Edited by Zero4549 - 3/5/12 at 10:02pm
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post #165 of 2468
Thread Starter 
What a great addition to the thread. You're fortunate that you had the 3G V3 deathadder as the 3G V2 requires you to hack away at the BE case to make it fit.

I'll be adding these tomorrow. Thanks for the pics dude!
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post #166 of 2468
Quote:
Originally Posted by hella View Post

What a great addition to the thread. You're fortunate that you had the 3G V3 deathadder as the 3G V2 requires you to hack away at the BE case to make it fit.
I'll be adding these tomorrow. Thanks for the pics dude!

NP! I've got a V2 as well sitting on my other computer, So I was able to be somewhat picky, although I'm lucky its the V3 that broke right? wink.gif

If you want the original pics (higher res) let me know. also check out my profile (i think? if not they're in my camera's SD card) for some more pics that I never added to this thread.


Oh also I'd like to add support for your claim that the V3 shell is inferior - My V2 was slightly defective straight from the factory (but not enough to warrant me going a couple weeks without it for an RMA) so a year or two later I picked up another (the now broken V3) when I built a new rig. The V2 is still in perfect shape where as the V3 obviously broke itself, and in a much shorter time frame.

Lastly, have you considered adding some info on the front page regarding "fixing" the shortcomings of the DA? Namely its lift-off and belly-drag? I've personally got a strip of magic-tape over the sensor hole and doubled up on mouse feet. Made it a thousand times better.
Edited by Zero4549 - 3/5/12 at 10:13pm
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post #167 of 2468
Thread Starter 
That's not a bad idea considering this is the deathadder megathread. Nothing's off limits. That's awesome you noted similar observations in build quality between the V2 and V3 deathadders. The more information we can confirm (or deny) the more we can learn about our mouse. A+ for reading the megathread top-to-bottom too!

Edit: The main post has been updated. I've rewritten most of to be more noob-friendly and while the post didn't have much technical jargon it's much easier to read to the average consumer.

Formatting has been worked on and the page shuold be must easier to navigate. A table of contents has been added to help people find what they're looking for. Unfortunately OCN doesn't allow internal linking so users will have to scroll to find the corresponding section.

Tomorrow I'll add a section on how to make a 3G Deathadder Black Edition with the help of Zero4549's pics.
Edited by hella - 3/6/12 at 12:23am
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post #168 of 2468
Is this the right way to open the top part of a DA?

    
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post #169 of 2468
Quote:
Originally Posted by tjangel07 View Post

Is this the right way to open the top part of a DA?

Oh, that top part made me problems.
I still don't think it is 100% safe to get it off, without the buttons breaking.
At least not without cutting the parts off which determine the highest point of them.
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post #170 of 2468
Quote:
Originally Posted by thuNDa View Post

Oh, that top part made me problems.
I still don't think it is 100% safe to get it off, without the buttons breaking.
At least not without cutting the parts off which determine the highest point of them.
Quote:
Originally Posted by tjangel07 View Post

Is this the right way to open the top part of a DA?

I haven't tried to do it myself, but there seem to be 5 clips that hold the top face on the body. Presumably, one could gently unclip each one and just lift the top off. You need to open up the body and remove the top PCB fist. Don't take my word for it though, there could be some unseen components involved.
Quote:
Originally Posted by hella View Post

That's not a bad idea considering this is the deathadder megathread. Nothing's off limits.

Awesome. BTW I tried testing the results of the magic tape+doubled skates on my 3G BE. Doesnt track at 1CD. Appears to stop tracking at roughly 1.5 business cards (it'll track perfectly with 1, no tracking with 2, tracks if I use two in front and one in back - its a bit sloped buy the sensor is dead center so it should be roughly valid.)
Edited by Zero4549 - 3/6/12 at 10:45pm
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