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Samsung SA950 and SA750 Owners Club - Page 161

post #1601 of 1741
Quote:
There are two things that may cause your symptom.

Of course, the most obvious is that some of the LED backlights are not turning on. The second is that the layer of plastic behind the LCD panel that diffuses the light (oddly enough, it's called a diffuser) isn't sitting right in the frame (it's buckled in the middle) or it's deformed.

If I saw this at work, I would take the bottom portion of the monitor screen apart, and lift the metal frame slightly to have a look at the diffuser on the bottom edge. It may be correctable. If it's the white LED backlight strip that has a few defective LEDs, you might find a replacement for it on-line.
I'll warn you, it's a delicate procedure to take an LCD panel apart. It has multiple diffuser-like layers inside, and they have to be aligned properly in order for the metal frame to fit around the edge. I have accidentally lost control while taking them apart once or twice (that's my story and I'm sticking to it), which forces you to take the entire panel apart just so you can get the alignment right for reassembly. This would be fine except, once taken apart to this extent, there is a fairly high risk of getting a piece of dust or other object in between the layers, one that you don't notice until you have the panel back together and are testing it. It really sucks to have to take it apart again just to get a piece of dust or a hair or something out.

Ahh I see. Too bad I'm too afraid to remove the "cover" of the monitor and check/repair it. I guess I'll keep use this monitor until the cheap 4K Monitor is out or the 120hz 1444p Monitor from Asus.

Thanks alot and +rep!
post #1602 of 1741
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mergatroid View Post

Was the spill on the panel or the base? If on the base, you should be able to pick up any boards that are mounted inside it (check ebay first). There's a small chance you could still rescue them by washing and drying them off.

If the spill is on the LCD panel, most likely it's buggered now. I bet Samsung would charge quite a bit of money for the panel. In your place I would try and hunt down a panel and replace it myself. You could start at Samsung.com, and check their service areas. The Canadian version has walk-in service centre addresses. Try and either get them to order you a panel if it's cost effective, or give you the part number so you can try and find one through other channels.

For future reference, when you spill water on electronics, time is of the essence. As water evaporates it can leave deposits behind (like minerals) and cause corrosion. This can block or short out high frequency signals (like data and clock signals). It's possible to prevent this by getting the equipment disassembled asap and either placing wet parts in a bowl of rice (to absorb moisture) for a day, or (my favorite method) use a hair dryer to dry them off very fast. It's amazing how many circuit boards I have rescued over the years using a hair dryer.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Mergatroid View Post

I'm sorry to say that the shop I work in would never pay for non-working equipment. Let us know if you have any success with Samsung.

Mergatroid, just to let you know, when I was about to pack my monitor back to the box, I tried to turn it on, and now the stuck lines are gone. the colour still looks a bit off, but after playing around with the config, I think I got it almost like how it was before. the only problem left is a bit of dark cloud at the lower right of the panel, but it's pretty small and won't be noticeable unless the screen shows only one bright colour (like when you check for dead/stuck pixels). I guess I'll keep it for now. thanks for the advice. +rep. thumb.gif

edit: btw the dark cloud looks similar to the one on MetalCase's monitor, but much much smaller, and not that dark. it's right at the lower right corner, around 1-2 cm long.
Edited by lemniscate - 2/19/14 at 11:48pm
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post #1603 of 1741
^ Thanks for the rep guys. I'm really glad your monitor started working lemniscate. It would seem the last time you tried it, it was still wet. It must have dried in the meantime, and luckily it didn't leave enough deposits to cause any major damage. I bet the darker area at the bottom is actually a stain left behind by the water.
It's really nice to hear something like this turn out well for a change. Congratz...
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post #1604 of 1741
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mergatroid View Post

^ Thanks for the rep guys. I'm really glad your monitor started working lemniscate. It would seem the last time you tried it, it was still wet. It must have dried in the meantime, and luckily it didn't leave enough deposits to cause any major damage. I bet the darker area at the bottom is actually a stain left behind by the water.
It's really nice to hear something like this turn out well for a change. Congratz...

yeah I guess I'm lucky. I followed your advise to use hairdryer, and I placed my monitor near the window so it gets sunlight. thanks again. biggrin.gif
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post #1605 of 1741
From 120 Hz to 2D DVI verirmisiniz the best settings

I've done pretty set on the main issues remained unlit. Do you share a lovely setting if you have
post #1606 of 1741
never mind. displayport worked all of a sudden. hmm.
Edited by doco - 2/25/14 at 5:24pm
    
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post #1607 of 1741
YOU CAN USE ME AS A FULL MONTH MOST BEAUTIFUL Do you share



THIS DO I SET MY BAD. SETTINGS AND RUIN




KPzZV7.jpg

xAPdbr.jpg

xRRlva.jpg


HELP ME YOUR SETTING
post #1608 of 1741
When playing 3d games and Fraps is monitoring fps, sometimes fps goes over 120.
Is it possible / should i somehow gap refreshrate to 120 because 950 cannot handle over 120 rates?
post #1609 of 1741
Quote:
Originally Posted by matti2 View Post

When playing 3d games and Fraps is monitoring fps, sometimes fps goes over 120.
Is it possible / should i somehow gap refreshrate to 120 because 950 cannot handle over 120 rates?

If everything is working well, and you're not getting any tearing in you graphics, I would just leave it where it is.

@bektafig







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post #1610 of 1741
Its amazing what a $5 dl-dvi-d cable that's actually a DL cable can do. 120hz all the time now and no DP connection issues.

But, my 3d experience has not been acceptable. Loads of ghosting. Some reviews on the issue blame the stock glasses. Are the glasses to blame, or is there some settings/tweaking to address first? What other glasses are recommended that would cut the ghosting and be rechargeable (not required, but would be nice.) (I did glasses search on this thread, but it basically game back with half the thread)
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