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Moving on From Point and Shoot - Page 3

post #21 of 30
Quote:
Originally Posted by ljason8eg View Post
What are you shooting that you need that much space for jpeg? That's an insane amount of space.
What he said. That's about a month or two of shooting for me.
post #22 of 30
Thread Starter 
First of all, thank you to all who have responded. Based on the responses so far i will be shooting raw for two reasons (and please correct me).

1) I want to learn post processing as well. While not my main focus i figured its good to have in the bag.

2) I feel from what i read that a conversion to to jpeg inside the camera changes somethings. I would prefer the image to be as i shot it to better learn from it.

In 14hrs my camera moved 12 feet, not happy. If i don't get it tomorrow I will be upset. However i live in Brooklyn NY and right near Greenwood cemetery which is very old and very historic. Not to mention there is three lakes and i feel a very good place to mess around. My idea is to go there on Saturday around 9 am and take a couple hundred random photos knowing nothing.

Then i plan to go back exactly one month later and try and take some of the same shots using what i have learned. Seems fun for me and hope to make thread about it and see some improvement.
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post #23 of 30
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So I got my camera yesterday after UPS delivering it to the wrong spot haha. I didn't even touch auto and went right to experimenting. I need to buy a tripod, i learned that quickly. I low light or bad light it seems for a correct expsure i need to use really slow shutter speeds, to long for me to hold the camera in hand.

Love it so far though. Is there anything wrong with AF I was manual focusing to get the hang of it but should i be doing that anyway while i learn?
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post #24 of 30
Quote:
Originally Posted by b.walker36 View Post
So I got my camera yesterday after UPS delivering it to the wrong spot haha. I didn't even touch auto and went right to experimenting. I need to buy a tripod, i learned that quickly. I low light or bad light it seems for a correct expsure i need to use really slow shutter speeds, to long for me to hold the camera in hand.

Love it so far though. Is there anything wrong with AF I was manual focusing to get the hang of it but should i be doing that anyway while i learn?
You should be able to handhold the kit lens down to 1/8-1/10 shutter with no problem, provided the subject isn't moving at all. Don't be afraid to use a higher ISO.

As for MF...I personally wouldn't do that unless I was using live view for some reason. MF is a pain in the ass with the focusing screens that come with DSLRs.
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post #25 of 30
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by ljason8eg View Post
You should be able to handhold the kit lens down to 1/8-1/10 shutter with no problem, provided the subject isn't moving at all. Don't be afraid to use a higher ISO.

As for MF...I personally wouldn't do that unless I was using live view for some reason. MF is a pain in the ass with the focusing screens that come with DSLRs.
Appreciate the info. How accurate is the meter in viewfinder. I was adjusting settings till I could get that very close to the middle of that meter (which from what i read is the correct exposure). But sometimes that was just impossible without going above 1" second shutter (which i could not hold still). That was at 3200 iso and smallest f stop. Now this was in my apartment with what i would imagine to be terrible lighting for taking pictures. I'm going to take some shots on my way home from work today around 5:30pm

The other thing is cannot set my f stop below 5.6 unless I'm at 55mm zoom and even then it wont go to the lowest my lens is rated for.
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post #26 of 30
Quote:
Originally Posted by b.walker36 View Post
Appreciate the info. How accurate is the meter in viewfinder. I was adjusting settings till I could get that very close to the middle of that meter (which from what i read is the correct exposure). But sometimes that was just impossible without going above 1" second shutter (which i could not hold still). That was at 3200 iso and smallest f stop. Now this was in my apartment with what i would imagine to be terrible lighting for taking pictures. I'm going to take some shots on my way home from work today around 5:30pm

The other thing is cannot set my f stop below 5.6 unless I'm at 55mm zoom and even then it wont go to the lowest my lens is rated for.
The meter is pretty accurate, however its relevance might not be. You should read the section in Dream Killer's guide regarding this, how a bright or dark point in the frame, when metered, can be misleading.

And by smallest f-stop, I hope you mean the smallest f-stop value, and not the smallest aperture.

What time were you taking these photos and did you have any lights on?
post #27 of 30
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by r31ncarnat3d View Post
The meter is pretty accurate, however its relevance might not be. You should read the section in Dream Killer's guide regarding this, how a bright or dark point in the frame, when metered, can be misleading.

And by smallest f-stop, I hope you mean the smallest f-stop value, and not the smallest aperture.

What time were you taking these photos and did you have any lights on?
Yes smallest f-stop value (that means the most light correct?). It was night time and I had two ceiling lights on.

I have to go back to dreamkillers as when i read it without actually using one it made little sense to be honest. But will now probably as i have had a few hours to mess with my camera. Ill put up some pictures today last night i was just to busy having fun (really good sign)
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post #28 of 30
Quote:
Originally Posted by b.walker36 View Post
Appreciate the info. How accurate is the meter in viewfinder. I was adjusting settings till I could get that very close to the middle of that meter (which from what i read is the correct exposure). But sometimes that was just impossible without going above 1" second shutter (which i could not hold still). That was at 3200 iso and smallest f stop. Now this was in my apartment with what i would imagine to be terrible lighting for taking pictures. I'm going to take some shots on my way home from work today around 5:30pm

The other thing is cannot set my f stop below 5.6 unless I'm at 55mm zoom and even then it wont go to the lowest my lens is rated for.
The meter in the viewfinder is pretty accurate, but it does not mean you have to point it to the center of the meter for each picture. Instead use it as a guide on how the overall exposure will be on the final image.

Example, for snow days I like to overexpose the background so the foreground is properly lit, or underexpose a picture in a darkroom because it is more like what I see in my eye. This is exposure compensation in the shortcut modes: Av Tv and P, which is telling the camera to adjust the other settings to darken/brighten a scene instead of you adjusting the setting in M mode.

Another thing you will learn is that the amount of light in outdoor and indoor different greatly, even if it does look about the same brightness in our eyes. This is because our brain has compensated the light difference already before evaluating a scene. The in camera light meter will know the actual brightness and the 3 settings are what dictates the brightness in the final image.

Oh, and the kit lens will vary in aperture in different focal lengths, meaning you can use a max of 3.5 at 18mm and max 5.6 at 55mm, because it is rated from 18-55mm at f/3.5-5.6. For it to be constant, you have to look for more expensive options.
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post #29 of 30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PlucknPlay View Post
The meter in the viewfinder is pretty accurate, but it does not mean you have to point it to the center of the meter for each picture. Instead use it as a guide on how the overall exposure will be on the final image.

Example, for snow days I like to overexpose the background so the foreground is properly lit, or underexpose a picture in a darkroom because it is more like what I see in my eye. This is exposure compensation in the shortcut modes: Av Tv and P, which is telling the camera to adjust the other settings to darken/brighten a scene instead of you adjusting the setting in M mode.

Another thing you will learn is that the amount of light in outdoor and indoor different greatly, even if it does look about the same brightness in our eyes. This is because our brain has compensated the light difference already before evaluating a scene. The in camera light meter will know the actual brightness and the 3 settings are what dictates the brightness in the final image.

Oh, and the kit lens will vary in aperture in different focal lengths, meaning you can use a max of 3.5 at 18mm and max 5.6 at 55mm, because it is rated from 18-55mm at f/3.5-5.6. For it to be constant, you have to look for more expensive options.
Thanks for that. Much appreciated. I don't plan to buy a new lens for a while as I don't have an identity as photographer yet and don't know what would benefit me. I look at them all the time though and drool, even though i don't know what half of it means.
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post #30 of 30
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Edited by b.walker36 - 10/6/11 at 4:24pm
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