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Fixing the MX518 Cable Problem

post #1 of 29
Thread Starter 
Disclaimer: I am not to be held responsible for your mistakes or misplacement during this simple procedure. Opening up Logitech’s product DOES void your warranty, so proceed with caution. Logitech have a really good support base and they will assist you and mostly like offer a replacement as this is a well-known issue.

Link to PDF Version: http://dl.dropbox.com/u/5658586/518/Fixing_Logitech_MX518.pdf

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Overall this tutorial will be written purely to promote confidence, I do recommend, if you already have a replacement or different mouse, to try this. A free mouse is always a plus side. The change of the cable is extremely simple, and you’re literally a few screws away from it working again.

The MX518 cable problem occurs when there is a break in the connection of a cable. Due to the design of the cable system in the 518, the mouse tends to wear quite a lot; this is no fault of Logitech’s as the mouse is actually very good. This problem is easily solvable; you simply have to replace the USB cable with another one. Mine has worked ever since.

You will only need a few items to change the fate of your mouse and there is no soldering iron is needed, unless you want to use the same cable, which you will then have to re-solder the wire into the ports, this tutorial will not however cover this.
What You Shall Need:

A medium sized crosshead screwdriver (Philips Screwdriver)
A replacement mouse cable (wire). I will talk about this in a moment.
And last but not least a Logitech MX518.

The mouse cable will need to be five pinned. Most USB mice will use this cable, unless they are extremely cheap and they are wired into the sensor itself. I am not sure which mice do and do not have interchangeable mice. I would love feedback on this topic so we can save people the hassle of opening up a mouse and losing mice feet in the process.
Confirmed mice are:
Microsoft Intellimouse 3.0
Microsoft Intellimouse 1.1
Microsoft Sidewinder
Logitech MX518
Logitech MX300
Logitech G5
Logitech G500
Razer Deathadder
Razer Salmosa
Mice That Do Not:

Microsoft WMO (1.1A is the one that has it soldered to the circuit board)

Generally if you can unscrew it and open it, it will have a cable compatible. There is some dispute about how genuine the whole gold-plated USB performance claim is apparently it doesn’t make that much difference whatsoever and I can honestly see this being the case again here. Bear in mind the thickness of the cables; you need to make sure it will fit into the grove cut out.

First, you will obviously need to open up your 518, to do that, there are 3 screws on the bottom. They will be covered with the sticker, and you will need to puncture the sticker to locate these screws. I would recommend jotting down your model number and product number (for future free mouse feet free from Logitech) and then completely removing the sticker, using a solvent to remove the majority of the sticky substance left, otherwise it will simply cause friction.

Once you’re in, watch your mouse wheel, it has a metal bit that easily falls out – be weary when opening it up. Holding it with one hand and putting the base on the bottom should fix this issue, just be careful and you won’t spend too long putting it back together. Don’t be too scared of the amount of green in there, it’s a circuit board. Scroll Wheel:

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1.Mouse Button Hub
2.USB Cable Hub, this is the one we need!
3.Outer Shell Hub – Disconnect this one for easier access



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Removing this screw will enable you to life the mounting point of the buttons and scroll wheel. You will need to take the wire out on the mounting piece too, just simply wiggle it out. Try not to pull on the cable too hard. Wiggle.

Link to PDF Version: http://dl.dropbox.com/u/5658586/518/Fixing_Logitech_MX518.pdf

After removing that, you will now have easy access to your mouse cable. Again, it is a five pinned adapter, so you will need to wiggle it out and simply discard of it.

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You will notice that the mouse cable is bent into a certain shape. You will need to obviously wire your mouse cable through this. Remove it, replace it with your spare, simply putting it in the way you just took it out or claimed it from. Next, close everything back up carefully. Follow the steps if you need to. Remember the scroll wheel is fragile!

After that, make sure everything is tight, and plug it back into your computer and have happy playing!

I hope this helped you guys!

Greetings and thanks to: h8m3, Shuki, Uteoz, Banaan, Noodle and Meez.
post #2 of 29
Nice guide! thumb.gif

My MX518 has worked flawlessly for the last two years, but it's good to have this information in the back of my mind, just in case. smile.gif
post #3 of 29
Thread Starter 
Bumping and requesting sticky.
post #4 of 29
Awesome guide. I tried a bunch of combinations on how to route the wire from the back of my table all the way to my mouse pad and I noticed the best way to avoid stressing out the usb cable is to have a zig-zag bend from the back cable going to the mouse. Instead of the cable having to bend during quick mouse movements, the cable is just dragged along the table. tongue.gif
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post #5 of 29
Why don't you use the feet that fit that mouse?
    
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post #6 of 29
Quote:
Originally Posted by Phos;15386020 
Why don't you use the feet that fit that mouse?

For one, the default feet are generally poor quality and using new feet spaced out more generously improves gliding.
Also, the standard feet cover the screw holes as you will have noticed..
This makes accessing the mouse alot easier now since the new feet dont need to be over the holes. smile.gif
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post #7 of 29
Yeah make sure you have spare mouse feet laying around. Most chances you will destroy the old ones attempting to get to the screws.

I modded my mx518 usb cable by removing the rubber jacket and replacing it with paracord. I can barely feel the cables weight now, almost like wireless with the benefits of USB. Though you'll need a soldering iron to do that.
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post #8 of 29
O M G !!!

I just replaced the usb cable by the usb cable of my old mx310 and it worked PERFECTLY !!

Thanks you so much Scarzy !!! A brand new live for this legendary mice.

Btw : this operation is like ULTRA EASY to do, i did not even unplungged the cable number 3 (i just putted the body of the mice to the side), this entire operation took me like 15 minutes maybe less ; )

TY SO MUCH
post #9 of 29
Ty for the guide, my USB cable broke just near the mouse. Didn't have a new cable but i cut out the damaged part and soldered the wires. Works flawlessly ! Damn scroll jumped under the table so i had to use to guide to figure out how to mount the little iron parts back on. You don;t even notice its been repaired since the soldering is done inside the mouse itself
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post #10 of 29
I picked up two mice at a thrift shop to try to replace my cable. They were not an exact match due to the cable pinout being slightly different, but they could be modified with a tiny bit of work to match the MX518.

These mice were:
Gateway MOAKUO
Dell MOC5UO

Internally, these mice were both almost completely identical. The main chipset had a slightly different version number and the boards were laid out a bit different, but the mousewheel hardware was identical and the LEDs were also identical.

The cable mod involved pulling two of the small wires out of the 5-pin connector and swapping them. These were the red and thin black wires; just use your old cable for a guide. To pull the wires, a tiny screwdriver can pry under the white plastic tongue holding the wire in, then gently pull it out. If you don't pry hard you can just push the wires back into their new holes and they'll click in.

Hope this helps somebody; I really like my 518 and have had it for 6 years, and the cable problem's been getting worse.
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