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Did I kill my 1100T? - Page 4

post #31 of 49
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kryton View Post
I can tell you the CPU is working if the system will even POST BUT based on things like how much voltage you were giving it while it was trying to boot and how high temps got, can't rule out the CPU being hurt - BUT then again it could be the board suffering.

Is this the exact model MB you have?
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16813138318
Nope. This one
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16813138324
Which is actually worse than the other one.
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post #32 of 49
clear cmos, reinstall windows..
    
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post #33 of 49
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by yuksel911 View Post
clear cmos, reinstall windows..
Read through thread. don't repeat what 5 other people have said.

I'm sorry, I couldn't resist.
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post #34 of 49
Quote:
Originally Posted by Scaevola View Post
Nope. This one
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16813138324
Which is actually worse than the other one.
Ugh.
That one doesn't even say it would work with a 6 core CPU like the one I linked to.
It's sounding more and more to me that you have a bad board on your hands.
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post #35 of 49
So, you've tried to boot with the Win 7 DVD and it won't? If you remove the hard drive, will it boot the install DVD?

I'd double check the RAM settings first, and make sure they are to manufacturer spec, including the command rate, voltage, timings and speed. Otherwise you may have a bad board like others have mentioned.
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post #36 of 49
Quote:
Originally Posted by blackbalt89 View Post
How high did you actually push the voltage?

I can't see you having hurt the chip itself doing what you did but the board may not have liked it. I see uncooled VRMs on that board, couple that with a wimpy 3+1 phase design and you have a recipe for motherboard failure.

Definitely not a board made for overclocking Thubans.
No, definitely not - but this is not a VRM failure yet. When the board refuses to turn on whatsoever (i.e. no lights, no POST) except when the 4-pin CPU connector is unplugged, then we have a VRM failure. You're certainly right though.
post #37 of 49
Thread Starter 
Well, I guess that settles it. New mobo time! Thank you guys for all the help! Probably would have pulled all my hair out if I didn't come here. Any suggestions for a new mobo? I was thinking:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16813128510
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post #38 of 49
ahh..was waiting for xd OP should read his er..contribution ..i just pulled this from his sig..lol http://www.overclock.net/amd-motherb...tion-list.html if you're gonna stay am3..mann..that m4n98td-evo..is SHEXY! i'm drooling over it.. http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16813131636 probably one of the best thuban-clocking boards at that price point!
Edited by Schmuckley - 10/11/11 at 5:46pm
 
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post #39 of 49
Go AM3+, gives you options later and in theory it shouldn't cost any real amount extra. Did you try swapping the PSU yet ?
post #40 of 49
Quote:
Originally Posted by Scaevola View Post
Well, I guess that settles it. New mobo time! Thank you guys for all the help! Probably would have pulled all my hair out if I didn't come here. Any suggestions for a new mobo? I was thinking:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16813128510
Good thought, decent board there.
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