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post #2021 of 8112
Turn off APM??
post #2022 of 8112
Quote:
Originally Posted by kzone75 View Post

headscratch.gif What's causing the 8120 to downclock under load from 4.5GHz to 2.8? Every power saving feature is turned off. APM as well. Have never noticed this before..

Yes you need to disable all power saving features along with the APM. This is causing the cpu to throttle under load. Make sure you LLC is high enough for cpu under load.

Hope this helps.
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post #2023 of 8112
Quote:
Originally Posted by patricksiglin View Post

yeah my vid is 1.325 at stock but it will not go over 4.3ghz on 6 cores without needing a lot of voltage which of course causes a lot of heat. I can do 4.7 now on 4 cores and on air I might be able to squeeze out 4.4 but that will be all.

In order for me to reach 4.9GHz I need 1.525v. This is a lot of voltage but its under the safe zone of 1.55v that I have heard from a lot of places. I only overclock to 4.9GHz when gaming. The rest of the time I am overclocked to 4.6GHz at 1.425v. 1.425 is not really that high at all.

Hope this help a little.
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post #2024 of 8112
Quote:
Originally Posted by mikezachlowe2004 View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by patricksiglin View Post

yeah my vid is 1.325 at stock but it will not go over 4.3ghz on 6 cores without needing a lot of voltage which of course causes a lot of heat. I can do 4.7 now on 4 cores and on air I might be able to squeeze out 4.4 but that will be all.

In order for me to reach 4.9GHz I need 1.525v. This is a lot of voltage but its under the safe zone of 1.55v that I have heard from a lot of places. I only overclock to 4.9GHz when gaming. The rest of the time I am overclocked to 4.6GHz at 1.425v. 1.425 is not really that high at all.

Hope this help a little.

right now prime testing 1.385v at 4.2ghz and slowly moving up to see how high I can go.
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post #2025 of 8112
Quote:
Originally Posted by bmgjet View Post

What gritt did you go up too?
Also did you wet sand since Iv found that makes a big difference once you getting up to 1500-2000gritt and makes its very smooth.
Job doesnt look too bad but I would of keept going since if your voiding the warranty you better make it worth while.

Started at 600/800/1000/1500/2000. Took your advice and wet sanded with 3 sheets of 2000 grit I had left. Does look alot more smoother.
post #2026 of 8112
Quote:
Originally Posted by ht_addict View Post

Started at 600/800/1000/1500/2000. Took your advice and wet sanded with 3 sheets of 2000 grit I had left. Does look alot more smoother.

I would like to know how this works out for you too. What did you do to keep from bending the pins while sanding? Please keep us updated on your progress.

Another question. Is there any way to sand it down to where is it really thin? Will this get better cooling and how much would you have to sand to get close to the chip? Or how thick is the heat spreader? Can it be sanded down to like 1/2 mm or less?

I am thinking about lapping mine but if its not really worth it to take the risk of ruining the chip in the process. AMD chips are a little harder since they have pins and intels dont. I dont know if I want to take the risk of benging pins if it only gives me a couple of degrees difference but if its over 8C it may be worth it.
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post #2027 of 8112
T'was quite an easy fix. How did I fix it? By doing absolutely nothing. Just a reboot. APM has always been disabled and that goes for all the power saving features too.
There's no LLC option on this mobo. Unless PLL is the same thing. It sits at 2.5v.
Must be a crappy BIOS, me thinks. Because sometimes it works perfectly fine. It's like every boot is different in some ways. Aero might or might not turn off by itself. Not possible to turn it on again unless I reboot. CPU voltage might or might not be the same in Windows as it i in the BIOS. The clocks may differ.. But everything seems to agree that my CPU VID is 1.35v.

Gigabyte + Bulldozer.. It's an adventure thumb.gif And I like adventures. As long as they don't confuse me too much. biggrin.gif
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post #2028 of 8112
Not to start a debate but testing has shown that you can make the surface too smooth and reduce the effectiveness of the TIM/heatsink contact. I would think 2000 grit wet is OK, but I'm not sure that smoother than this is better based on some thermal molecular testing that has been conducted. If you don't see at least 5C imporvement I doubt it's worth the hassle/risk but to each his own.
post #2029 of 8112
Theoretically if you had two perfectly flat surfaces you wouldnt need thermal compound, as you wouldnt need the thermal compound to fill in their imperfections. But this can only be in theory as you will never be able to achieve perfect flatness on a molecular level.

As for lapping, it is mainly used to remove the voids in the IHS surface. The mirror finish is only a aesthetic bonus.
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post #2030 of 8112
Quote:
Originally Posted by KarathKasun View Post

Theoretically if you had two perfectly flat surfaces you wouldnt need thermal compound, as you wouldnt need the thermal compound to fill in their imperfections. But this can only be in theory as you will never be able to achieve perfect flatness on a molecular level.
As for lapping, it is mainly used to remove the voids in the IHS surface. The mirror finish is only a aesthetic bonus.

Yeah thats pritty much it, Might as well do the base of your heat sink as well if its not perfect.
Shiny does = smooth but not always flat.

The flatness is the most important part, How you do it with out bending pins is stick the chip back in its foam holder that it came in.
Then glide it accross the sand paper letting its own weight do the work. Make sure the sand paper is on something smooth like a mirror.
I wet sand the whole time since it helps the sand paper stick down.

Then use dish washing liquad on the last sand since it makes it glide very easy and makes it shine like a mirror, But cleaning it up can be hard.

Also those Heat spreaders are quite thick. Phenom 2 ones were like 15mm thick, Id love to cut the one off my chip but still dont have the ball to do it yet.
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