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Fan standoffs - Page 2

post #11 of 23
even with your pics I don't see the point of what they do, you have 2 fans on top of the rad then a big bit of metal sticking out above surely a screw is tidier
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swimming haf-x
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post #12 of 23
I'll take a 100, precision using a lathe is just want im looking for, it will add that finishing touch that screws just cant show.

and for $900 thats a bargain
    
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post #13 of 23
Screws with a 5¢ aluminum or steel sleeve will do the same thing... Also, anyone looking to really step up thier game making things look clean and finished will not mount a rad externally like that...

It is cool, but I think the market for something like that is VERY limited. Specifically: you.
post #14 of 23
Thread Starter 
One of the "fans" is just the outside housing.If you space your fans back from the radiator fins a bit the amount of fin area that has air blowing across it is increased.Spacing the fans back is an old trick to get more out of your cooling equipment. The larger threaded section is for mounting.As I stated you certainly do not need 16 standoffs to mount a 480 rad but you can't hang a 480 rad on a single 4 mm shaft (well not for long).I am comfortable with using 8 standoffs to hang the rad.Now if you want to go "push/pull" you are going to need 8 more but you do not need the thicker mounting section.Now if you want a fan grill you are going to want some nice looking hardware to mount it.Have you ever priced an aluminum fan grill for a 480 radiator? 65-95 would not be uncommon.I ask have you ever felt the weight from a 480 rad with a push/pull fan setup and a grill, easily15lbs.

If you did go push/pull you can have a short threaded section machined to accept the hardware to retain the grill.I do use external mounting a lot more than internal but I think that some of the newer radiators are offering smaller outside dimensions with very good heat disappation capabilities.This will make inside mounting easier and bring more cases into the group that is possible to use for water cooling.Some are just so tight inside I do not even want to try and fit a radiator (espically a 360 or a 480. There is more to it than just getting it in,once.I like to maintain a very large amount of servicability with my rigs.We have all been working on a car with a tight fit and have made the comment "I bet if the designer had to change this part he would have not made the fit so tight", well I try to carry this ability to be serviced over into my rigs. I am watercooling a 4U (that is a rack mount case) and a custom acrylic station and all the rads are mounted externaly.I want to give some of the newer equipment a bit of a tourture test and see how they do.

I guess putting out the money for a resivoir like in the picture (I bought 3) would be out of the question.Sure you can just make it so it works or you can appreciate the look and feel that comes with quality.The res.was from one of our OCN Artisians.

Edited by PCCstudent - 10/14/11 at 5:07pm
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post #15 of 23
Quote:
Originally Posted by PCCstudent View Post
One of the "fans" is just the outside housing.If you space your fans back from the radiator fins a bit the amount of fin area that has air blowing across it is increased.Spacing the fans back is an old trick to get more out of your cooling equipment. The larger threaded section is for mounting.As I stated you certainly do not need 16 standoffs to mount a 480 rad but you can't hang a 480 rad on a single 4 mm shaft (well not for long).I am comfortable with using 8 standoffs to hang the rad.Now if you want to go "push/pull" you are going to need 8 more but you do not need the thicker mounting section.Now if you want a fan grill you are going to want some nice looking hardware to mount it.Have you ever priced an aluminum fan grill for a 480 radiator? 65-95 would not be uncommon.I ask have you ever felt the weight from a 480 rad with a push/pull fan setup and a grill, easily15lbs.
my point still stands. nice long zinc oxide coated black button head screws and a length of small metal tube gets you the exact same look for under $1 per screw...
post #16 of 23
I'm with kevin there are many cheaper ways to do this with the same look and the money you save can go on better fittings or blocks
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swimming haf-x
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post #17 of 23
http://www.homedepot.com/Tools-Hardw...atalogId=10053


These come in a wide variety of sizes.

@OP, I do like your idea. Definitely a cleaner look overall, but the cost is prohibitive to all but a small niche market.
post #18 of 23
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Metaldude View Post
http://www.homedepot.com/Tools-Hardw...atalogId=10053


These come in a wide variety of sizes.

@OP, I do like your idea. Definitely a cleaner look overall, but the cost is prohibitive to all but a small niche market.
I did use the type of product you linked to in my first couple of rigs but the "tinker toy" look was something I just could not stomach.All along I have never disagreeded that the job could get partialy done at a lower cost but I like to apply the theme of "highest quality hardware" throughout my current builds (after the first few learning builds) and sleeves just don't cut it any more.Think of it as art,who can put a price on art?
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post #19 of 23
I agree with your philosophy, but I still say good quality bolts and sleeves look better. with them you do not have to worry about threaded ends sticking out anywhere or nuts for the threads.
post #20 of 23
Thread Starter 
The long threaded ends are there for a reason, they are not something that is there by accident, remember I can have this section any lenght I want, it is custom made.The reason the threaded section is long is because I am dealing with 1' and 1/2' acrylic as my building material. If I was simply using 16 or 14 gague steel I would specify this end to be shorter when I gave the design parameters to the machinist. Think about it, spending all this money on standoffs, primairly for looks, but having a long uneeded threaded section sticking out. This kind of mistake would not be made.I counterbore the acrylic so only the amout I need sticks out,and no more.I am getting pretty good at judging how much to counterbore.One part that hurts my wallet is the price of the counterbore bit,it was 22.00.All cutting and drilling tools designed for acrylic carry a pretty hefty preminum when it comes to price.I think I paid over 50.00 for the tap to be used on the resiviors inlets and outlets (and then went and paid someone to make them,but at least I now have the correct tap if I ever need it).
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