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Case Mod Project: LiveSimpleTech - Page 2

post #11 of 31
Thread Starter 
With Side panel back on

NOTE:
After an hour with the dremel, I managed to fit the top plastic back on with the 360mm swifttech radiator hidden underneath. The 3/8" barbs stick through the ceiling of the case into the interior, right above the IO panel. You will also note a silver 120mm radiator (the stock h50 rad) on the back wall (last pic, previous page). I will be running both of these in series for the i5-2500k.

338
Edited by kingpin4329 - 1/23/12 at 11:54am
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post #12 of 31
Thread Starter 
Full sleeving? I absolutely cannot stand sleeving. I refuse to ever sleeve again when this PSU is finished.
Non- Modular multicolor full sleeve. Granted, now I am fairly quick at it, but this was my first sleeving project that I've ever attempted at and it has consumed more than 20 hours already of my time. A few wires had to be cut due to pin issues (prior to me knowing how to correctly remove stuck pins).

For anyone sleeving out there, do not buy the "sleeving toolkits". Instead, buy a box of staples. I've had more luck with staples than the 3-4 tools i've broken trying to get pins out of the 24pin connector.

338
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post #13 of 31
Thread Starter 
I hope to have this project fully completed by wednesday this week monday next week. Stay tuned!
Today my order of 15' white primochill 3/8" tubing comes in today as well as green anti-kink coils.
Have to order a new resevoir as my micro swifttech broke when trying to mount it.
Edited by kingpin4329 - 1/24/12 at 2:21pm
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post #14 of 31
Thread Starter 
Bonus points to anyone who noticed the table my modding has taken place on... 10' Master Chief Beer Pong table (the results of a 30 pack of beer, some good friends, a huge master chief stand up poster, and a gallon of epoxy) smile.gif
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post #15 of 31
Mind if I ask what kind of paint and equipment you used?
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post #16 of 31
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by iJustin View Post

Mind if I ask what kind of paint and equipment you used?

Yes, i do mind. It's super top secret smile.gif

By super top secret I mean the home depot spray paint isle.

Honestly, I've worked in a few paint booths in my life and had alot of experience with powercoating and painting (paint guns and rattlecan). If you take enough time and use the right paints, rattle can will turn out just as nice as a good paint gun. I used just generic sandpaper (100 grit for original sanding, 300 grit inbetween primer coats, and 600 grit inbetween base coats, with a 1000-2000 grit on the clear coats). I used self etching primer (i believe it was rustoleum) and automotive base and clear coats.

Alot of the finished quality comes from knowing how to handle product when your painting and understanding drying time. Simple oils from your skin can cause many imperfections within the paint, so always use latex gloves and be sure to rinse the item down thoroughly with aceton or mineral spirits before starting the project. Having a "booth" set up will prevent dust and other airborn particles from contaminating your project as well. Let every coat dry for atleast 24 hours and you will have perfection smile.gif
It takes alot of practice to get things perfect with rattlecan, but it is more than doable.
Hope this answered your question

EDIT: tackcloth will really help as well in between coats since you cannot use "Acetone" or similiar items on your project after a coat has been laid down.
Dropcloths also help a ton in setting up a decent paint booth. I've used drop cloth to turn a shower/tub into a paintbooth for headlights before and it worked fantastic.
Edited by kingpin4329 - 1/24/12 at 2:15pm
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post #17 of 31
Thread Starter 
Got some of the watercooling supplies yesterday (3/8" hosing, 90 degree adapters, kinkcoil)
Couldn't help but install them smile.gif The Swifttech Micro Res v2 broke when i tried to mount it, so it gave me a good excuse to purchase a cylinder style res from frozencpu.com (should arrive friday so I can start the 36 hour leak test)


First time using Anti-Kink Coil (primochill) and I really love the effect it has as well as the insane funcionality. I was able to get some really tight bends in without any sort of kinking issue!
Also put the power supply housing in the case to see how it would look with the new white top. I really like the contrast.
700

Housing the pump within the bottom 5 1/4" drive bay (there was a little cutout that fit the pump PERFECTLY.
338

Hard to see, but the barbs from the 360mm radiator above the chassis poke down into the case right against the back wall. Perfect fit.
338
Edited by kingpin4329 - 1/24/12 at 2:20pm
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post #18 of 31
Black/White always looks great imo. Keep it going! subbed
post #19 of 31
Quote:
Originally Posted by kingpin4329 View Post

Yes, i do mind. It's super top secret smile.gif
By super top secret I mean the home depot spray paint isle.
Honestly, I've worked in a few paint booths in my life and had alot of experience with powercoating and painting (paint guns and rattlecan). If you take enough time and use the right paints, rattle can will turn out just as nice as a good paint gun. I used just generic sandpaper (100 grit for original sanding, 300 grit inbetween primer coats, and 600 grit inbetween base coats, with a 1000-2000 grit on the clear coats). I used self etching primer (i believe it was rustoleum) and automotive base and clear coats.
Alot of the finished quality comes from knowing how to handle product when your painting and understanding drying time. Simple oils from your skin can cause many imperfections within the paint, so always use latex gloves and be sure to rinse the item down thoroughly with aceton or mineral spirits before starting the project. Having a "booth" set up will prevent dust and other airborn particles from contaminating your project as well. Let every coat dry for atleast 24 hours and you will have perfection smile.gif
It takes alot of practice to get things perfect with rattlecan, but it is more than doable.
Hope this answered your question
EDIT: tackcloth will really help as well in between coats since you cannot use "Acetone" or similiar items on your project after a coat has been laid down.
Dropcloths also help a ton in setting up a decent paint booth. I've used drop cloth to turn a shower/tub into a paintbooth for headlights before and it worked fantastic.

Ahh this helped me so much. What kind brand automotive paints (can) and model would be recommended?
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Closet Computer.
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WD Blue 500GB. Windows 7 Home Premium. hp f2304 @ 1980x1200. Old DELL @ 1280x1024 Corsair HX850. 
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NZXT Phantom Black. Razer Deathadder 3.5G. Razer Scarab. X-Fi Titanium Fatal1ty Pro. 
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post #20 of 31
Quote:
Originally Posted by kingpin4329 View Post

Full sleeving? I absolutely cannot stand sleeving. I refuse to ever sleeve again when this PSU is finished.
Non- Modular multicolor full sleeve. Granted, now I am fairly quick at it, but this was my first sleeving project that I've ever attempted at and it has consumed more than 20 hours already of my time. A few wires had to be cut due to pin issues (prior to me knowing how to correctly remove stuck pins).
For anyone sleeving out there, do not buy the "sleeving toolkits". Instead, buy a box of staples. I've had more luck with staples than the 3-4 tools i've broken trying to get pins out of the 24pin connector.
338

You speak the truth. I had that Sunbeam kit, and nearly stabbed myself with the broken off piece when it snapped off. Screw that. I used some staples that I bent and flattened. SO much easier.
    
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