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6 - 10 degrees difference!

post #1 of 11
Thread Starter 
My Fractal Design XL case has a main chamber that's arguably a little too big to ensure effective airflow to my Noctua NH-D14 cooler. Two intake fans are way down the bottom and obstructed by way too many hard disks, while the other one is just too far away to be effective. I was getting full load temps peaking at 80 degrees. So, I decided on a very simple mod that I hoped would be effective. I have two NF-P14s cooling the hard drive arrays and one NF-P12 sending air to the CPU cooler from the 5.25" bay. Trouble is, the NF-P12 is a little too far away from the heatsink, and by the time the air gets there, it's already heated.

So, I ordered one of these and two of these. I had to add a bit of hot glue around the brackets for the duct, as they didn't hold the duct in very strongly and it kept popping out. Installation was a 10 minute affair, as the 80mm tubing fits perfectly through the 5.25" bay and is almost direct to the cpu cooler. End result for an extremely simple modification: idle temperatures 10 degrees lower and full load temperatures 6 degrees lower. Makes me wonder why people bother with watercooling!

I'm definitely pleased at the results.



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post #2 of 11
Awesome mod! I love it

I just have a fan in the 5.25" bay which works wonders but I just love how yours directly feeds on the cpu fan.
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post #3 of 11
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by ErOR View Post
Awesome mod! I love it

I just have a fan in the 5.25" bay which works wonders but I just love how yours directly feeds on the cpu fan.
Pity about the blue though lol
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post #4 of 11
Thread Starter 
Next change: rip out the NF-P12 on the cooler and the two Akasa Apache Blacks and replace them by Thermalright TY-140s. Wish I didn't have to wait so damn long for someone to have stock of them!
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post #5 of 11
What an awesome and simple idea. Smaller cases would probably benefit less with a shorter distance from front intake to CPU cooler, but this would certainly allow a less powerful fan because all of the air taken in goes to the heat sink fan. Still...

+ Rep for this mate.
    
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post #6 of 11
1) I think the chief reason for your CPU temp drop is not because the air from the NF-P12 was previously heated and now the air is shielded inside a duct. Previously there was not a component between the NF-P12 and the push fan of the NH-D14 and so the air could not have been heated up much , if any.

I reckon the reasons are:- (see pic 1)
a. Part of the air from the NF-P12 was previously sucked away from the NH-D14's push fan by the case top fan, thereby reducing the volume of cool air going into the NH-D14

b. Part of the incoming warmed air from the lower NF-P14 was pulled up by the push fan of NH-D14 and entered into the CPU cooler, thus giving higher temp.

Now, the NH-D14 receives full amount of cool air from NF-P12 and receives no warmed air from NF-P14, thus resulting in lower temp.

2) To further improve, I suggest:-
a. cut short the 92mm duct so that the length is exactly what is actually needed to go from the front NF-P12 to the push fan of NH-D14. The reason is that the cross sectional area is smaller at the present state. This is not good for airflow. When the duct is shorter and in a fully extended fashion, the cross sectional area is larger and will benefit the airflow.

b. a better alternative is to use fully extended 120mm/140mm duct of exact length

Read this thread for a related study where I dealt with the size of the duct:-
http://www.overclock.net/air-cooling...side-case.html

3) To further yet improve, I suggest:- (see pic 2)
a. remove the case top fan. Or, reduce its speed, at least, so that its intereference with the hot exhaust is less

b. alternatively, use the same duct concept and apply it to the exhaust end.

4) Lastly, here is a must-read thread for you. Enjoy!
http://www.overclock.net/air-cooling...i-can-get.html

post #7 of 11
Fine explication. +rep
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post #8 of 11
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by windfire View Post
1) I think the chief reason for your CPU temp drop is not because the air from the NF-P12 was previously heated and now the air is shielded inside a duct. Previously there was not a component between the NF-P12 and the push fan of the NH-D14 and so the air could not have been heated up much , if any.

I reckon the reasons are:- (see pic 1)
a. Part of the air from the NF-P12 was previously sucked away from the NH-D14's push fan by the case top fan, thereby reducing the volume of cool air going into the NH-D14

b. Part of the incoming warmed air from the lower NF-P14 was pulled up by the push fan of NH-D14 and entered into the CPU cooler, thus giving higher temp.

Now, the NH-D14 receives full amount of cool air from NF-P12 and receives no warmed air from NF-P14, thus resulting in lower temp.

2) To further improve, I suggest:-
a. cut short the 92mm duct so that the length is exactly what is actually needed to go from the front NF-P12 to the push fan of NH-D14. The reason is that the cross sectional area is smaller at the present state. This is not good for airflow. When the duct is shorter and in a fully extended fashion, the cross sectional area is larger and will benefit the airflow.

b. a better alternative is to use fully extended 120mm/140mm duct of exact length

Read this thread for a related study where I dealt with the size of the duct:-
http://www.overclock.net/air-cooling...side-case.html

3) To further yet improve, I suggest:- (see pic 2)
a. remove the case top fan. Or, reduce its speed, at least, so that its intereference with the hot exhaust is less

b. alternatively, use the same duct concept and apply it to the exhaust end.

4) Lastly, here is a must-read thread for you. Enjoy!
http://www.overclock.net/air-cooling...i-can-get.html
Windfire, thanks for the really useful analysis. So, I've already tried your suggestion in (3) as it's an easy one to implement. The top 180mm fan was turning at 650 rpm on full speed. Turning it off doesn't seem to make much difference (I'm guessing that the rear 140mm doesn't exhaust hot air fast enough by itself), however turning it down to the minimum level of 250 rpm resulted in a further 3 degree drop in full load temperatures, so now I'm at a 9 - 10 degree drop in full load temps by comparison to my pre-ducting setup.

I used the 80/92 mm ducting as I was unable to lay my hands on 120/140mm ducting with appropriate adapters to fit it to the fans. Given this really good result from the ducting I've presently got installed, I'll work on getting some larger ducting, as the links you provided and the analysis you've done previously conclusively demonstrates that a wider cross sectional area will further improve cooling performance.

It seems from the two threads that you've linked me that the best improvement will likely come if I install an exhaust duct? I will need to put a third fan on the back of the NH-D14 and get some wider ducting to do this. In fact, looking at your airflow diagrams and extrapolating from the reslts of turning down the rpm of the top case exhaust fan, simply installing a third fan at the back of the NH-D14 will probably make a big difference too. Who knows, maybe with this setup I can reduce temps another few degrees and run my 5Ghz overclock 24/7. That would be nice
Edited by complexlogic - 10/14/11 at 10:13pm
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post #9 of 11
Quote:
Originally Posted by complexlogic View Post

It seems from the two threads that you've linked me that the best improvement will likely come if I install an exhaust duct? I will need to put a third fan on the back of the NH-D14 and get some wider ducting to do this.
I think so.

See the pic below for what I think can be done to the exhaust end.

One reminder:- As there will be 4 to 5 fans in this series of duct from the entrance to the exit, their speeds ought to be coordinated well. If you have a fan controller to manually control their speed, it will be easier to find the optimal speeds.
post #10 of 11
u have alot of hdd's
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