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Why is there always a distance between actuation point and the base? - Page 2

post #11 of 31
Ok then ask in the Mechanical Keyboard Guide or over at Geek Hack.

I'm just one guy, but there are millions of people who will tell you that good mechanical keyboards are significantly better than rubber domes. They will also try to explain that having the actuation point being halfway down is way better than being forced to bottom out.
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post #12 of 31
Thread Starter 
What's wrong with asking here?
post #13 of 31
Quote:
Originally Posted by tiby312 View Post
What's wrong with asking here?
Far less viewers who can provide the answer you are looking for.
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post #14 of 31
Quote:
Originally Posted by TwoCables View Post
That's ENTIRELY different.



2mm to bottom out? That sounds like the scissor-switch to me which isn't bad (most laptops).

However, a normal keyboard that forces me to bottom out forces me to work harder, like typing on a rubber dome keyboard. I hate typing on rubber dome keyboards in comparison.

Playing a piano is very very very very very very different. The design allows the pianist to have precise timing.
I'm assuming you don't like MX black switches then...

I don't know a lot about keyboards so if you don't mind me asking, why are blacks touted as the "gaming switch" by a lot of people and companies? i've only typed on blues and loved the feel, but reading your description...why would anyone get blacks over a regular keyboard? if the process is almost the same what is the difference between the two?
    
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post #15 of 31
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by TwoCables View Post
Far less viewers who can provide the answer you are looking for.
I'll give it a shot if this fails.
post #16 of 31
you want one o'dem dere low-action keyboards
 
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post #17 of 31
Quote:
Originally Posted by xPrestonn View Post
I'm assuming you don't like MX black switches then...

I don't know a lot about keyboards so if you don't mind me asking, why are blacks touted as the "gaming switch" by a lot of people and companies? i've only typed on blues and loved the feel, but reading your description...why would anyone get blacks over a regular keyboard? if the process is almost the same what is the difference between the two?
The biggest reason is that the actuation and reset point are practically in the exact same spot (more or less) which means there's no chance to have any failed double-taps.

Another attractive characteristic can be the stiffer springs because it can help some gamers avoid accidental keypresses, especially during those intense gaming moments where an accidental keypress could occur and even potentially mean the difference between a win and a loss (life or death).

Finally, I think that not being tactile is another attraction because then double-tapping is even more effortless (but now I'm just guessing).

Although for me, I have no problems with the Cherry MX Blues (Filco Majestouch).


Quote:
Originally Posted by tiby312 View Post
I'll give it a shot if this fails.
There's no reason not to ask in the Mechanical Keyboard Guide thread. It has essentially become Overclock.net's Mechanical Keyboard forum all in 1 thread.
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post #18 of 31
Quote:
Originally Posted by TwoCables View Post
The biggest reason is that the actuation and reset point are practically in the exact same spot (more or less) which means there's no chance to have any failed double-taps.

Another attractive characteristic can be the stiffer springs because it can help some gamers avoid accidental keypresses, especially during those intense gaming moments where an accidental keypress could occur and even potentially mean the difference between a win and a loss (life or death).

Finally, I think that not being tactile is another attraction because then double-tapping is even more effortless (but now I'm just guessing).

Although for me, I have no problems with the Cherry MX Blues (Filco Majestouch).



There's no reason not to ask in the Mechanical Keyboard Guide thread. It has essentially become Overclock.net's Mechanical Keyboard forum all in 1 thread.
Yeah, from what I've read I don't think blacks are for me. I'll probably end up grabbing a filco keyboard with some blues or maybe a WASD keyboard with some blues? It seems to have been received well over here and I like the customization.

Feel free to stop answering so many of our questions, but do you think that the filco majestouch is worth the price premium of some of the ~100 dollar mechanicals?
    
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post #19 of 31
I need to get my Yamaha tuned.

The touchweight is terrible.
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post #20 of 31
Ripster. lol


Quote:
Originally Posted by xPrestonn View Post
Yeah, from what I've read I don't think blacks are for me. I'll probably end up grabbing a filco keyboard with some blues or maybe a WASD keyboard with some blues? It seems to have been received well over here and I like the customization.

Feel free to stop answering so many of our questions, but do you think that the filco majestouch is worth the price premium of some of the ~100 dollar mechanicals?
Personally, I do feel that it's worth it. This thing is almost like the Steinway of mechanical keyboards.

Ahem.
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i5-2500K @ 4.5GHz (1.368-1.384V fixed voltage) ASUS P8P67 EVO B3 (UEFI ver. 1850) GTX 780 ASUS DirectCU II (1228 / 6300, 1.180V) G.SKILL Ripjaws X 8GB (2 x 4GB) 1866MHz, CL9 
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250 GB Samsung 840 EVO (C:\) 250 GB Samsung 840 EVO (D:\) 150 GB WD VelociRaptor Samsung SH-S243N 24x DVD Burner 
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Filco Majestouch 104-key Cherry MX Blues w/NKRO Corsair HX650 (Bronze, ordered on 12-12-2009) CM 690 Intellimouse Optical (1.1A) 1000Hz polling rate 
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It's a computer!
(19 items)
 
  
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
i5-2500K @ 4.5GHz (1.368-1.384V fixed voltage) ASUS P8P67 EVO B3 (UEFI ver. 1850) GTX 780 ASUS DirectCU II (1228 / 6300, 1.180V) G.SKILL Ripjaws X 8GB (2 x 4GB) 1866MHz, CL9 
Hard DriveHard DriveHard DriveOptical Drive
250 GB Samsung 840 EVO (C:\) 250 GB Samsung 840 EVO (D:\) 150 GB WD VelociRaptor Samsung SH-S243N 24x DVD Burner 
Optical DriveCoolingOSMonitor
Samsung SH-S203N 20X DVD Burner Thermaltake Frio Win 7 Home Premium x64 SP1 Retail AOC G2460PG (24" 1920 x 1080 144Hz G-SYNC) 
KeyboardPowerCaseMouse
Filco Majestouch 104-key Cherry MX Blues w/NKRO Corsair HX650 (Bronze, ordered on 12-12-2009) CM 690 Intellimouse Optical (1.1A) 1000Hz polling rate 
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Basic, but premium round X-Fi Titanium HD Klipsch ProMedia 2.1 (with 16 AWG Monster Cable... 
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