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Well that was a complete nightmare... - Page 3

post #21 of 36
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by t-ramp;15314210 
Compression fittings have a collar that you first place on the tubing. Then you put the tube on the barb, slide the collar toward the barb, and tighten it onto the threads on the barb's base. Basically it just acts as an integrated clamp.

Overall I feel appearance is by and large the main draw for compression fittings. I stick with plain barbs because they're easy to use and don't cost an arm and a leg for a full loop's worth.

By the way, what size tubing are you using? For quite a while I was using Tygon R3603 3/8" x 1/2" on Bitspower 3/8" barbs, and it was a fantastic match. Didn't even need clamps, and a zip tie was plenty if some peace of mind was desired.

Okay yeah that's what I figured, thank you, have some rep smile.gif.

I'm currently using 1/2" barbs with 1/2" ID tubes and 3/4" OD. The frustrating thing is that the barbs are very secure and didnt leak from the tube. They have soley leaked at the threads around the O ring =/.

Cheers,
GA
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post #22 of 36
I really like barbs with a recessed groove for the O-ring. Combine that with the proper size O-ring and you end up with a fairly foolproof fitting.
post #23 of 36
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by t-ramp;15314363 
I really like barbs with a recessed groove for the O-ring. Combine that with the proper size O-ring and you end up with a fairly foolproof fitting.

So you would go with bitspower barbs?

Thanks again, everyone,
GA
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post #24 of 36
Quote:
Originally Posted by GrandArchitect;15314375 
So you would go with bitspower barbs?

Thanks again, everyone,
GA

I used 1/2 barbs, with 7/16 hose. No leaks, no clamps necessary. Even though I put a few zipties on all internal connections JUST IN CASE.

D
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post #25 of 36
I use Bitspower barbs as well, there are others that have the groove under the fitting to secure the o-ring, it not only holds the o-ring in place but keeps you from over tightening the o-ring, in your case it looks like you did over tighten them but you say they were still loose, this leads me to be leave that the o-rings being used are of a softer durometer,
(i.e. hardness) then what should be used, a better source for a design specific o-ring would be a hydraulic supply store
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post #26 of 36
Quote:
Originally Posted by GrandArchitect;15314375 
So you would go with bitspower barbs?
Yep. I'm not sure why I'm currently sitting with a mix of Koolance and XSPC, but I hope to remedy that shortly.
Edited by t-ramp - 10/14/11 at 9:07pm
post #27 of 36
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by t-ramp;15314474 
Yep. I'm not sure how I'm currently sitting with a mix of Koolance and XSPC, but I hope to remedy that shortly.

Before I order a bunch of those what about the XSPC compression fittings? Any word on those?

Thanks,
GA
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post #28 of 36
Quote:
Originally Posted by GrandArchitect;15313866 
Hey guys,

Just realized I forgot to link the photo haha.

In regards to over tightening I really don't think thats the issue. I started with only finger tightening and a 1/2 rotation turn with a wrench. With just that, they leaked... So as a result I tightened them. Either way they leaked frown.gif.

In the end though, I'm pretty sure I'm going to do one of two things, get new O rings or compression fittings. What would you guys recommend for compressions?

The picture would be me tightening them to an extreme. Even when MUCH loser with the O ring barely compressed they leaked...

Thanks,
GA

First of all, this is WAY too tight. Hand tight is what you want to aim for. A wrench is only used to give it a nudge so that you can't loosen it with your bare hands; if your hands can't torque it free, it isn't likely that any torque exerted by tubing will either. If you're on the stronger side, hand tight will be plenty enough for a good seal, but give it a tiny turn anyway (1/8th to 1/4th of a turn) so you don't accidentally loosen it when pushing the tubing on.

Even if you do get compression fittings, I felt it was necessary to point this out. If you tighten compression fittings as much as you did in that post, it'll still continue to leak and you'll have just wasted money.
post #29 of 36
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by skkhai;15314661 
First of all, this is WAY too tight. Hand tight is what you want to aim for. A wrench is only used to give it a nudge so that you can't loosen it with your bare hands; if your hands can't torque it free, it isn't likely that any torque exerted by tubing will either. If you're on the stronger side, hand tight will be plenty enough for a good seal, but give it a tiny turn anyway (1/8th to 1/4th of a turn) so you don't accidentally loosen it when pushing the tubing on.

Even if you do get compression fittings, I felt it was necessary to point this out. If you tighten compression fittings as much as you did in that post, it'll still continue to leak and you'll have just wasted money.

Thank you and I appreciate the tip, but keep in mind the only reason I tightened it that much is because it leaked after only hand tightening and a 1/2 turn with the wrench... Then again, I do play lacrosse so my handgrip is kinda retarded =/ So how tight do you guys tend to make it? Is there anyway to tell from the appearence of the O ring or something?

Thanks,
GA
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post #30 of 36
Sorry this took so long, I wanted to dig up the same barbs you're using, I believe the O-Rings are the same spec as yours aswell. Don't mind the corrosion, the original owner had a funky loop...

6245118297_f2faf8df9c_b.jpg

This is really about all you need for a water tight seal. The O-Ring should not deform much at all, just slightly depressed.
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