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First water cooling loop - Page 3

post #21 of 45
I'd love to see someone doing test on distilled directly out of sealed bottle, then run in system; taking measurement of "non conductive" feature after a month, 2 months,.... and so on. I wonder by how much it builds up.
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Bakunawa
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post #22 of 45
Quote:
Originally Posted by tehwalris View Post
I'm new to water cooling and have no idea what that all means Could you please explain?
Thanks
Well basicly the HAWK is a non refence card which means that MSI have modified the PCB so that components and screw holes are in the different place.

So you will have to use a block like this.
http://www.aquatuning.ch/product_inf...--Nickel-.html

And then apply heatsinks like shown below.

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post #23 of 45
1. Go RX360 for rad. That's enough to cool 1 CPU, 1 VGA.

2. If you want to use distilled water, add few drops of
Anti-corrosive and Biocide (Pt nuke or a silver coil)

Many WC user said you don't need anti-corrosive, but actually you do.
For example, EK waterblock was had corrosion problem was issued and they found out people used distilled water without anti-corrosive.

Theoratically, there is no such perfect non-conductive, and
all kinds of non-conductive coolant means low conductive enough
to not have electical short on your VGA or main board.

Distilled water is low conductive enough. I personally had seveal leaks, and I saw several water drops on back of my VGA during operation, but it was fine.

If you use it for a long time, it may be come conductive, but it is same for other kinds of coolants. Using distilled water is waayy cheaper to replace.
One thing bad about distilled water is... If you have such a corrosion or a strange problem with your waterblock, and send it to the manufacturer, then they sometimes reject RMA or fixing.


3. pump = mcp-655 or other laing pump.
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post #24 of 45
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by andrewmchugh View Post
Well basicly the HAWK is a non refence card which means that MSI have modified the PCB so that components and screw holes are in the different place.

So you will have to use a block like this.
http://www.aquatuning.ch/product_inf...--Nickel-.html

And then apply heatsinks like shown below.

What heatsinks are you talking about? And that water block, will it mount in some standard way?
Thanks
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post #25 of 45
Quote:
Originally Posted by ELPCU View Post
If you use it for a long time, it may be come conductive, but it is same for other kinds of coolants. Using distilled water is waayy cheaper to replace.
One thing bad about distilled water is... If you have such a corrosion or a strange problem with your waterblock, and send it to the manufacturer, then they sometimes reject RMA or fixing.
What manufacturers are those? I know Koolance is one of them-since a user here made report.
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post #26 of 45
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by PCCstudent View Post
One of our OCN Artisans suggested a pump and pump mount to me and it has never failed me,I relate it to you.Working with a bay resivoir that has an outlet correctly positioned (on the bottom of course) just let the pump (in this case it was a variable speed 655) hang from the delivery hose.The hose is certainly strong enough to support the pump and you get the added benifit of vibration cancelation.I must have used this "hang the 655 pump by the delivery hose" dozens of times.

I spent 1986-93 living in Switzerland (in paticular a little town called Kunten in Canton Argau.Switzerland was such a great place but it was time to come home.
So is that method not leak-prone? I think I'm getting the rx360 kit which has a 5.25" reservoir with pump.

I hate having to learn German here
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post #27 of 45
Thread Starter 
Thanks to everyone for their help so far
Teh neon walris
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post #28 of 45
Thread Starter 
I have another question, because I'm going to mount the radiator externally how do I get the tubing out?
Thanks
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post #29 of 45
Quote:
Originally Posted by tehwalris View Post
I have another question, because I'm going to mount the radiator externally how do I get the tubing out?
Thanks
Drill holes.
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post #30 of 45
I helped a friend build an aircooled Scout. My watercooled cases have been an Antec Sonata franken-rig (an unwieldy disaster), a Cosmos S and a Corsair 650D.
My first setup had sli'ed 9800GT with blocks and heatsinks - just aim a fan so air flows over the vrm heatsinks and you will be fine, just like others are saying.
I used Feser 1 in distilled water and solid color tubing - the clear Tygon gets discolored.

Don't forget to add a drain line or install a drain port - you will need to flush the system once a year or when you sli the system. A simple T fitting outside the case with a stub of tubing and a stopper is enough.
Track down the psu power on trick - you want to bleed your system without power to the mobo.
Your loop ought to go pump>cpu> gpu> rad>res> pump. The rad and the res can be switched. Allow enough tubing to be able to move things around a little.
Have fun!
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