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How hot does your Res water get? - Page 6

post #51 of 67
^ This
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post #52 of 67
Quote:
Originally Posted by EK_tiborrr;15341256 
The water temperature throughout the loop does not vary more than degree or so. Normal Twater in/out delta for radiator is ~ 0.5-1.0°C.
Quote:
Originally Posted by prava;15345742 
First of all, that loop is as inefficient as it gets (seriously). Its never a good idea to mix cpu + everything else when you have such a monster case and rads to do it.

Second, I clearly stated that you'd need quite an EXTREME setup to surpass that 3.5ºC mark. I'm sure you have a lowish flowrage + your setup is very extreme (everything is on water) so IDK how I was wrong.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Angrybutcher;15346049 
5 radiators in a row is a bit extreme and does make sense that you are seeing a 6c difference before and after your rad set. Ideally, you should split that into two loops, or see about splitting your rad set into 2/3 with say 3 rads for your GPUs and two for everything else, but in a single loop.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Los Hog;15346126 
^ This

Ideally the 5 radiators are before the cpu to allow for it to get the coldest water. I don't want the 1200watts from the ocd 480s to dump most of that heat onto the cpu, but yet I want them to take advantage of the added radiator area. Since it only raised water temp by .5C after passing the cpu and then by only 1C more after passing the mosfets, ram, and mobo block it ended up giving the best overall temps (compared to dual loop setup I ran before with a gpu loop and a cpu/mobo/ram/mosfet loop) since each component took advantage of the extra heat dissipation when the other components weren't stressed. I usually only stress either the cpu or the gpus, rarely both simultaneously so the extra 6x 120 rad area on each loop (despite the heat dump by the added components) adds up to be a significant difference in temps.

You'll also notice that most people with high tdp builds w/ huge cases on here may have multiple reservoirs and pumps, but tend to at some point run a single loop setup depending on what the rig's purpose is. I know levelesque found better overall temps with single loop over dual just as I have.
Edited by fat_italian_stallion - 10/17/11 at 5:31pm
 
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post #53 of 67
Quote:
Originally Posted by GingerJohn;15344371 
Not quite. He is refering the the difference between the air temp going into the rad and the water temp coming out.

Ideally you want this to be 0°C, meaning that you are reducing the water to the ambient temperature. This represents the limit of cooling possible without going for active cooling (TECs, phase change etc).

The higher the air - water difference the less optimized your setup.

I'd prefer it if we stuck to wording like "as close to 0C as possible" rather than the thermodynamically impossible. I'm just that way.
Quote:
Originally Posted by falconer65;15344549 
@OP
Digging thru these posts, it would seem the heat is not being dissipated and building up in the reservoir.

It seems the only way to get the reservoir hotter than a few °C over ambient would be for the radiator to not be able to dissipate the heat. I could see this happening by either air flow or water flow. First, I would try checking the fans to see if one has gone bad and then speeding up the fans.

Are you folding 24/7?

As someone who is researching water cooling systems, this is all very informative. It parallels what I know about cooling systems for cars. You can run a 4 cylinder radiator on an 8 cylinder for a 1/4 mile run, but just try to go across town!

Back to computers, I have bought a CPU water block and am saving for the rest. As to what the rest will be, I am working on that!
Don't look at it as heat building up in the reservoir - unless you consider ALL the tubing and contained fluid to be the reservoir.

As for vehicle radiator sizing, your logic is flawed. Driving across town requires very little power.

The reason you can "get away with" a small radiator for short busts of power is simple - the cooling system can absorb that heat regardless of it's ability to dissapate it. Top fuel (4,000hp+) drag cars don't have cooling systems that you would recognize (no radiators, no water / green stuff) (Bonus points if you know where that heat goes).

Regardless of an engine's possible output, it takes the same amount of energy to move a 3000lb car up to 30mph. Unless you have a very inefficient v8 and a very efficient I4, the same radiator and airflow will suffice (within a few percentage points, of course).

Throw that I4 radiator at the v8 engine around a racetrack for a while, and you might see a problem.

What prevents overheating in a car is much more related to making sure that you get good flow to the radiator (which means making sure air doesn't bypass the radiator), and that the cooling fan is functioning properly (cooling fans do most of their work when a car isn't moving very fast).
Edited by u3b3rg33k - 10/17/11 at 6:22pm
 
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post #54 of 67
Quote:
Originally Posted by u3b3rg33k;15347900 
I'd prefer it if we stuck to wording like "as close to 0C as possible" rather than the thermodynamically impossible. I'm just that way.

If you want to be pedantic then you will notice that I put the word "Ideally" in there. Ideal systems are usually at the point of breaking the laws of thermodynamics.

Also it is not practically impossible for the rad exit to be at ambient, only mathematically impossible (dT->0 as Rad size->∞). We can get the two temps to match within the limits of our ability to measure the difference, therefore the delta can be said to be essentially 0°C.

You would need a very large rad though. biggrin.gif
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post #55 of 67
Quote:
Originally Posted by fat_italian_stallion;15347594 
I usually only stress either the cpu or the gpus, rarely both simultaneously so the extra 6x 120 rad area on each loop (despite the heat dump by the added components) adds up to be a significant difference in temps.

My apologies for my unfortunate comment, then. I thought with such a huge monster you would be folding like mad, and thus the comment about your system being inefficient. biggrin.gif

If you stress only one of the parties then your system is as efficient as it gets thumb.gif
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post #56 of 67
Quote:
Originally Posted by GingerJohn;15350191 
You would need a very large rad though. biggrin.gif
Quite so.

Perhaps one of these?
36524285_466cd44992_z.jpg


But seriously, I kid.
 
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post #57 of 67
Full load. Mine is currently at 109F/43C.
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post #58 of 67
@OP
Are your pump and fans running at full speed?
Quote:
Originally Posted by u3b3rg33k;15347900 
Don't look at it as heat building up in the reservoir - unless you consider ALL the tubing and contained fluid to be the reservoir.

As for vehicle radiator sizing, your logic is flawed. Driving across town requires very little power.

The OP measured at the reservoir, so i said reservoir.

My logic is not flawed. We are making different assumptions. I can easily overheat a 150hp cooling system with 300+hp on 150°F asphalt on a cross town trip.
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post #59 of 67
Quote:
Originally Posted by falconer65;15385378 
My logic is not flawed. We are making different assumptions. I can easily overheat a 150hp cooling system with 300+hp on 150°F asphalt on a cross town trip.

Still flawed. Unless it's reckless driving and public endangerment across town on 150F asphalt. Otherwise there's no way you can utilize 300hp driving to the grocery store.

Your average 2.5L engine doesn't make 150HP until around 5000rpm, with the throttle wide open.

As an example:
dyno_bmw11.jpg

Look at the number for hp@50mph. Assume another 10, or even 20hp with air resistance, and you're STILL putting less than 50hp in on a level surface.

What have you run that has a "150 hp" radiator with a 300hp engine behind it?
Edited by u3b3rg33k - 10/20/11 at 5:18pm
 
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post #60 of 67
My systems runs a consistent 5ºC water to air delta while folding on the CPU and both GPU's.

i7-950 @4.3Ghz 1.368v, GTX470 @808/1616 1.1v, 9800GT @650/1700.

2x MCP35x pumps, Phobya Extreme Quad 480 and 200 radiators, 9x Akasa Viper fans. Pumps set on 50%, fans on 100%.
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WD Blue Generic DVD Cuplex Kryos HF CPU block, Swiftech MCW82 GPU b... Windows 7 Home Premium 
PowerCase
Antec True Power 650W >10 year old Antec something or other. 
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Grog
(21 items)
 
TC Folding Gimp
(14 items)
 
 
CPUMotherboardGraphicsGraphics
i7-950 Asus P6X58D-E Asus ENGTX470 BFG 9800GT 
RAMHard DriveOptical DriveCooling
Corsair Dominator GT Velociraptor 3000HLFS Lite On DVD burner EK Supreme HF 
CoolingCoolingCoolingCooling
AquagraFX470 EK FC-88 Koolance RP402x2 MCP35x pumps 
CoolingCoolingOSMonitor
Phobya Extreme 200 and Quad 480 radiators. 9x Akasa Viper fans Windows 7 Ultimate Old LG Flatron 1680x1050 
KeyboardPowerCase
Logitech G15 + Logitech G13 game pad Thermaltake 850W Corsair 600T 
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
Phenom x4 9650 Cheap MSI board EVGA GTX580 SC Junk PC-800 DDR2 
Hard DriveOptical DriveCoolingOS
WD Blue Generic DVD Cuplex Kryos HF CPU block, Swiftech MCW82 GPU b... Windows 7 Home Premium 
PowerCase
Antec True Power 650W >10 year old Antec something or other. 
  hide details  
Reply
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