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Water Cooling Antec 1200 Done Right?

post #1 of 33
Thread Starter 
I water cooled my Antec about a year ago (was my 1st attempt), but I was never really happy with the outcome, don't really know why, just was.

Had a few days off work, decided I would redo my loop, add a few things, you know the bug, just had to get my feet wet..... again.

I have seen quite a few Antec 1200s water cooled and every time I see it, I think '**** thats quite horrible', or somone has cut massive holes in the case to fit rads and it just looks nasty. I figured I would give it ago (again), so I did.

Pics below, Dont really need to explain any of it, however I would like to point out hat the only modding that was needed was 5 drill holes. (4 in roof for rad, 1 in back for res),

You also don't need a modular PSU to have clean cable management, just take your time and use literally 100s (about 250 I used) cable ties.

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While I appreciate this might not look like some on MDPC or ones with specific build logs on either here on xtremesystems; this build was sensibly priced; in a case that is sensibly priced. Hope this gives other the idea to water cool their rigs, even if they dont have 1000s and 1000s of $ to throw at it.
Edited by Cygone - 10/19/11 at 8:23am
    
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post #2 of 33
I have to say that is an immaculate job on your 1200 watercooling and wiring setup, while I am inspired with your fantastic work. I don't have the patience to do the same with my 1200 tongue.gif
    
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post #3 of 33
the only issue i can see is with the top radiator not getting enough airflow, you can always try trimming the top vent to accommodate the radiator. That and switch the fans to a stronger model. Most radiators do better with stronger fans, and less resistance smile.gif

other than that, I must say for an antec 1200 you've kept the inside immaculate smile.gif
post #4 of 33
I don't understand what's going on with the HDDs. It looks like they are sideways to the wall of the case, not in the usual stack?
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post #5 of 33
Very nice job!! Really nicely done.
Do you plan to make a grill for the front or leave it as is?
+1 rep
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post #6 of 33
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by gerrardo;15348738 
the only issue i can see is with the top radiator not getting enough airflow, you can always try trimming the top vent to accommodate the radiator. That and switch the fans to a stronger model. Most radiators do better with stronger fans, and less resistance smile.gif

other than that, I must say for an antec 1200 you've kept the inside immaculate smile.gif

I have a couple of 120s on order for delivery today to replace the rear 'clear fans'. Didn't realise I didn't have enough untill I was building it.

Their is a massive amount of air comming out of the top, the rear fans are actually intakes, as is the PSU, the top rad is pushing up, and the front rad is pushing forward. I decided to inverte the air as I smoke in my office and the amount of dust that was getting dragged into the case was obscene. This way my 'smoke' does not get sucked in to the chassis as the front fans are pushing it away.
Edited by Cygone - 10/18/11 at 3:18am
    
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post #7 of 33
Pretty amazing looking rig there biggrin.gif
I love the front especially, thought it would look better with Enermax Apollish fans biggrin.gif (yea i know, they're seriously expensive)
post #8 of 33
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by JDługosz;15349531 
I don't understand what's going on with the HDDs. It looks like they are sideways to the wall of the case, not in the usual stack?

That is correct, the 360 rad takes up 10 drive bays, and the res takes up 2.(total of 12 in this chassis). As it happens the front mounting screws for the drive bay covers are in almost the exact position (within about 0.5mm) of the mounting holes on the underside of the HDDs, with a little effort you can screw them in.

Both are held on with 2 screws at the 'front' of the case, tho you can actually mount them with 4 screws (wow at how lucky this is), I would have to remove the rear 3 rad fans to be able to get at the screw heads to tighten them.

Considering the side panel touches the drives (and theirfor acts as a massive heat sink) their is no real need to use all 4. I do have to do some modding today with fan grills for the rear of the 3 front fans, so I might add the additional screws in at the same time.
Edited by Cygone - 10/18/11 at 3:19am
    
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post #9 of 33
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Fan o' water;15349558 
Very nice job!! Really nicely done.
Do you plan to make a grill for the front or leave it as is?
+1 rep

I have the ability to mount the original 1200 front covers back into the chassis (though some of them would only be screwed in from the left side as the HDDs block some of the screw holes)

Though I must admit I actually really like how it looks without a front on it so to speak and the covers are aboout 40% restrictive.
    
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post #10 of 33
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by LokSupguller;15351887 
Pretty amazing looking rig there biggrin.gif
I love the front especially, thought it would look better with Enermax Apollish fans biggrin.gif (yea i know, they're seriously expensive)

I will take a look at the fans. Money is not really an issue, but their is a point when that money is wasted, especially if you are looking at £15/fan when you would need 10 of them. If one didn't already have a mass of fans it 'might' be worth it, but replacing fans for fans just for asthetics.........

Also replacing the front 360 lower fan will be a *****!! The mounting hole in that rad is knackered, so their is a M4 nut behind the rad mounting hole. If I remove the fan mounting screw the nut will drop and OMG at how hard that will be to remount when the rad vertically mounted. Yes lying the case on its back will allow the rad to be horizontal but I still can't see that being a easy task.

I was looking at these - http://www.hitechlegion.com/images/stories/enermax_cluster/11.jpg
Edited by Cygone - 10/18/11 at 3:12am
    
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