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post #21 of 27
Quote:
Originally Posted by killeraxemannic View Post
Thats not quite what I want. I am looking for something with around 70 for a little bit of distance.
Sell off your 18-55mm for ~$100, spend an extra ~$220 to buy a Sigma 10-20mm used.

Now you've a 10-20mm for your wide shots with a 28-135mm complimenting it for any needed reach and a 50mm for large aperture shots.
post #22 of 27
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by r31ncarnat3d View Post
Sell off your 18-55mm for ~$100, spend an extra ~$220 to buy a Sigma 10-20mm used.

Now you've a 10-20mm for your wide shots with a 28-135mm complimenting it for any needed reach and a 50mm for large aperture shots.
That would be ideal if my 28-135 actually took decent photos :/ it looks awful at anything zoomed more than 50MM or anything above F5.6.

Here is an example of both.... F11, 1/200s, 100MM, 100iso

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post #23 of 27
I would upgrade lens first then bodies. I would highly recommend saving up for a 17-55mm.
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post #24 of 27
Quote:
Originally Posted by killeraxemannic View Post
That would be ideal if my 28-135 actually took decent photos :/ it looks awful at anything zoomed more than 50MM or anything above F5.6.

Here is an example of both.... F11, 1/200s, 100MM, 100iso
maybe you have a bad copy, but the 28-135 isnt a bad lens at all. imo the 24-105L isnt much different sure its a hair faster on the long end, but sharpness and contrast isnt all that. great range for a walk around tho for FF.
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post #25 of 27
Not really sure what's going on, but I do +1 mz-n10. Not to mention lenses usually benefit from stopping down and actually perform worse wide open, not better.

Any chance you've a cheap UV filter on that thing?
post #26 of 27
Quote:
Originally Posted by killeraxemannic View Post
That would be ideal if my 28-135 actually took decent photos :/ it looks awful at anything zoomed more than 50MM or anything above F5.6.

Here is an example of both.... F11, 1/200s, 100MM, 100iso
People take the photos, not the lens. I would say that there are more compositional issues with the photo and possibly post-processing as well.

The 28-135 is a good lens in the right hands, as is the 18-55 kit lens. Where they fail the most is in contrast and color reproduction, and a small non-constant aperture.

Quote:
Originally Posted by killeraxemannic View Post
Well most common are Cars, People, Animals, and landscapes. In that order.
You might as well say that you shoot everything, LOL. Seriously though, for all those subjects there are multiple lenses which are best suited.

For cars, if you mean car shows, something like a somewhat wide prime or fast standard zoom lens works well (like the Canon 17-55 f/2.8 or Sigma 30mm f/1.4).

If you mean cars at the track, then you will need a longer zoom lens with fairly fast AF like one of the Canon 70-200's.

For people, which, as with cars, greatly depends on the situation and location (studio, on the street, etc), a longish prime lens is best (50 or 85mm prime) or even a fast standard zoom.

For animals, something longer is best, like one of the Canon 70-200 lenses.

For landscapes, something reasonably wide with good contrast/color repro, good sharpness at narrow apertures, and decent resistance to CA and flare is best. Canon 10-22 comes to mind, but the Sigma, Tokina and Tamron varieties are also high quality.
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post #27 of 27
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by r31ncarnat3d View Post
Not really sure what's going on, but I do +1 mz-n10. Not to mention lenses usually benefit from stopping down and actually perform worse wide open, not better.

Any chance you've a cheap UV filter on that thing?
There are no filters on the lens at all. I have always thought it looked a little bit goofy. Maybe I should send it in.
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