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i5-2500K overclocking results - Page 3

post #21 of 38
Thread Starter 
Nevermind, got it to work now I set C1E to Enabled instead of Auto.
post #22 of 38
Kevin: using an Offset of "Auto" is bad because it cranks the voltage way higher than it needs to be. So use a Manual voltage, figure out what voltage you need, and then switch to Offset and set it.
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post #23 of 38
Thread Starter 
Ok, thanks for the info. By the way, why can't I choose Auto for my Vcore with my settings now? The choices are only Offset and Manual. Which of the settings that I've changed made this?

Other than the Offset setting set at Auto, are there still other settings that you noticed that I should change? PLL voltage, PCH, etc. are recommended to be on Auto only?
Edited by kevindd992002 - 10/26/11 at 4:44pm
post #24 of 38
Turbo mode with asus at least enables power saving and messes with the OC. Just go into CPU Configuration and edit the multiplier then turbo will be highlighted. Hence not being used.
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post #25 of 38
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by pent View Post
Turbo mode with asus at least enables power saving and messes with the OC. Just go into CPU Configuration and edit the multiplier then turbo will be highlighted. Hence not being used.
What do you exactly mean?
post #26 of 38
Quote:
Originally Posted by kevindd992002 View Post
Ok, thanks for the info. By the way, why can't I choose Auto for my Vcore with my settings now? The choices are only Offset and Manual. Which of the settings that I've changed made this?

Other than the Offset setting set at Auto, are there still other settings that you noticed that I should change? PLL voltage, PCH, etc. are recommended to be on Auto only?
I am specifically talking about the setting called "CPU Offset Voltage". That should not be "Auto", but it should be a manually-entered value. For example, mine is 0.040. The reason why is because "Auto" makes the core voltage go way higher than it needs to be.

Do you see that setting that says "Offset Mode Sign"? This determines whether the value you entered is either added to the VID that you see in Real Temp and/or Core Temp or subtracted from it. Again, you may need to place load onto the CPU in order to see the actual VID in either Real Temp or Core Temp.

So, I am not referring to Offset vs. Manual; I'm only referring to Offset.

For now, let's leave the other settings as they are.


Quote:
Originally Posted by kevindd992002 View Post
What do you exactly mean?
I don't know what he means either.
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CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
i5-2500K @ 4.5GHz (1.368-1.384V fixed voltage) ASUS P8P67 EVO B3 (UEFI ver. 1850) GTX 780 ASUS DirectCU II (1228 / 6300, 1.180V) G.SKILL Ripjaws X 8GB (2 x 4GB) 1866MHz, CL9 
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post #27 of 38
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by TwoCables View Post
I am specifically talking about the setting called "CPU Offset Voltage". That should not be "Auto", but it should be a manually-entered value. For example, mine is 0.040. The reason why is because "Auto" makes the core voltage go way higher than it needs to be.

Do you see that setting that says "Offset Mode Sign"? This determines whether the value you entered is either added to the VID that you see in Real Temp and/or Core Temp or subtracted from it. Again, you may need to place load onto the CPU in order to see the actual VID in either Real Temp or Core Temp.

So, I am not referring to Offset vs. Manual; I'm only referring to Offset.

For now, let's leave the other settings as they are.
Actually, I do understand what you mean by your message regarding leaving the Offset value to Auto. I was just curious which why I asked another question, this time regarding the CPU Voltage mode options just being Manual and Offset. I swear that I saw an "Auto" option there when I loaded optimized defaults in my mobo. What made the "Auto" option not selectable?

Regarding VID, correct me if I'm wrong but VID is a constant "range" even though you increase the multiplier, right? The VID that I see in Real Temp when in idle and load are what make up my VID range, correct?

Another question. Let's say I consider 1.5V as my max "Safe" Vcore. If I set the Vcore in UEFI to 1.55V and let's assume that I have a Vdrop of 0.05V and a Vdroop of 0.1V, the Vcore at idle in Win7 would be 1.5V (1.55-0.05) and at load it would be 1.4V (1.5-0.1). Is there any single time that the Vcore would overshoot to 1.55V making me pass the "safe" mark?
post #28 of 38
Quote:
Originally Posted by kevindd992002 View Post
Actually, I do understand what you mean by your message regarding leaving the Offset value to Auto. I was just curious which why I asked another question, this time regarding the CPU Voltage mode options just being Manual and Offset. I swear that I saw an "Auto" option there when I loaded optimized defaults in my mobo. What made the "Auto" option not selectable?
The ability to use Auto is still there. You could either type it in and then press Enter, or you can select Auto using your keyboard (like + or -).


Quote:
Originally Posted by kevindd992002 View Post
Regarding VID, correct me if I'm wrong but VID is a constant "range" even though you increase the multiplier, right? The VID that I see in Real Temp when in idle and load are what make up my VID range, correct?
I haven't tested this for myself, but I was recently told that the VID changes with different multipliers.

Also, I don't know what you mean by "VID range". The only thing we need to know here is what VID you get while under load at the multiplier you are using. This enables you to know what Offset voltage to use in order to get the core voltage that you want. There's nothing else to know.

So this is another reason why it's recommended to just use a Manual voltage until you are "done" overclocking. For example: I used a Manual voltage until I reached my goal of 4.8 GHz.


Quote:
Originally Posted by kevindd992002 View Post
Another question. Let's say I consider 1.5V as my max "Safe" Vcore. If I set the Vcore in UEFI to 1.55V and let's assume that I have a Vdrop of 0.05V and a Vdroop of 0.1V, the Vcore at idle in Win7 would be 1.5V (1.55-0.05) and at load it would be 1.4V (1.5-0.1). Is there any single time that the Vcore would overshoot to 1.55V making me pass the "safe" mark?
No, not that I know of.
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i5-2500K @ 4.5GHz (1.368-1.384V fixed voltage) ASUS P8P67 EVO B3 (UEFI ver. 1850) GTX 780 ASUS DirectCU II (1228 / 6300, 1.180V) G.SKILL Ripjaws X 8GB (2 x 4GB) 1866MHz, CL9 
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It's a computer!
(19 items)
 
  
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
i5-2500K @ 4.5GHz (1.368-1.384V fixed voltage) ASUS P8P67 EVO B3 (UEFI ver. 1850) GTX 780 ASUS DirectCU II (1228 / 6300, 1.180V) G.SKILL Ripjaws X 8GB (2 x 4GB) 1866MHz, CL9 
Hard DriveHard DriveHard DriveOptical Drive
250 GB Samsung 840 EVO (C:\) 250 GB Samsung 840 EVO (D:\) 150 GB WD VelociRaptor Samsung SH-S243N 24x DVD Burner 
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post #29 of 38
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by TwoCables View Post
The ability to use Auto is still there. You could either type it in and then press Enter, or you can select Auto using your keyboard (like + or -).
Ok.

Quote:
Originally Posted by TwoCables View Post
I haven't tested this for myself, but I was recently told that the VID changes with different multipliers.

Also, I don't know what you mean by "VID range". The only thing we need to know here is what VID you get while under load at the multiplier you are using. This enables you to know what Offset voltage to use in order to get the core voltage that you want. There's nothing else to know.
By range I mean the fluctuation of VID in Real Temp. I thought it was suppose to fluctuate and the lowest and highest VID you see would be your "range".

That's weird because I'm reading the definition of VID and it says that it is the stock voltage tested by Intel to run at stock frequencies.

Well, the VCore displayed in UEFI changes automatically if you set Offset voltage to Auto, I wonder if that voltage is the same as the VID?

Quote:
Originally Posted by TwoCables View Post
So this is another reason why it's recommended to just use a Manual voltage until you are "done" overclocking. For example: I used a Manual voltage until I reached my goal of 4.8 GHz.
Please correct me if I'm wrong with these procedures:

1.) Raise multi to target frequency.
2.) Raise VCore to your liking using Manual mode. Example I set it to 1.25V to achieve 4.5GHz.
3.) Boot to Windows. Run Real Temp. Check VID there and note the " fluctuation range" that it shows while under load. (Is the VID in Real Temp higher when in idle mode?)
4.) Check CPU-Z for actual VCore fluctuation range.
5.) VCore values minus VID values.
6.) Answer to number 5 would be your Offset value in UEFI.

Are these steps correct?
post #30 of 38
Quote:
Originally Posted by kevindd992002 View Post
Ok.



By range I mean the fluctuation of VID in Real Temp. I thought it was suppose to fluctuate and the lowest and highest VID you see would be your "range".

That's weird because I'm reading the definition of VID and it says that it is the stock voltage tested by Intel to run at stock frequencies.

Well, the VCore displayed in UEFI changes automatically if you set Offset voltage to Auto, I wonder if that voltage is the same as the VID?
If that were true, then the voltage wouldn't skyrocket when it's set to Auto.

All we need to know is what VID you see in Real Temp when the CPU is under load. Or apparently if you are lucky like me, then you don't need to have the CPU under load to see the actual VID in Real Temp.

There's nothing else we need to know.



Quote:
Originally Posted by kevindd992002 View Post
Please correct me if I'm wrong with these procedures:

1.) Raise multi to target frequency.
2.) Raise VCore to your liking using Manual mode. Example I set it to 1.25V to achieve 4.5GHz.
3.) Boot to Windows. Run Real Temp. Check VID there and note the " fluctuation range" that it shows while under load. (Is the VID in Real Temp higher when in idle mode?)
4.) Check CPU-Z for actual VCore fluctuation range.
5.) VCore values minus VID values.
6.) Answer to number 5 would be your Offset value in UEFI.

Are these steps correct?
If LLC is set to Ultra High, then basically. I can even simplify it:

  1. Overclock only using Manual voltage.
  2. When you are "finished" overclocking, switch over to Offset. By "finished", I mean when you are not going to overclock any higher.
  3. Enjoy it.

#2 assumes knowing how to set the Offset without too much guesswork.
It's a computer!
(19 items)
 
  
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
i5-2500K @ 4.5GHz (1.368-1.384V fixed voltage) ASUS P8P67 EVO B3 (UEFI ver. 1850) GTX 780 ASUS DirectCU II (1228 / 6300, 1.180V) G.SKILL Ripjaws X 8GB (2 x 4GB) 1866MHz, CL9 
Hard DriveHard DriveHard DriveOptical Drive
250 GB Samsung 840 EVO (C:\) 250 GB Samsung 840 EVO (D:\) 150 GB WD VelociRaptor Samsung SH-S243N 24x DVD Burner 
Optical DriveCoolingOSMonitor
Samsung SH-S203N 20X DVD Burner Thermaltake Frio Win 7 Home Premium x64 SP1 Retail AOC G2460PG (24" 1920 x 1080 144Hz G-SYNC) 
KeyboardPowerCaseMouse
Filco Majestouch 104-key Cherry MX Blues w/NKRO Corsair HX650 (Bronze, ordered on 12-12-2009) CM 690 Intellimouse Optical (1.1A) 1000Hz polling rate 
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It's a computer!
(19 items)
 
  
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
i5-2500K @ 4.5GHz (1.368-1.384V fixed voltage) ASUS P8P67 EVO B3 (UEFI ver. 1850) GTX 780 ASUS DirectCU II (1228 / 6300, 1.180V) G.SKILL Ripjaws X 8GB (2 x 4GB) 1866MHz, CL9 
Hard DriveHard DriveHard DriveOptical Drive
250 GB Samsung 840 EVO (C:\) 250 GB Samsung 840 EVO (D:\) 150 GB WD VelociRaptor Samsung SH-S243N 24x DVD Burner 
Optical DriveCoolingOSMonitor
Samsung SH-S203N 20X DVD Burner Thermaltake Frio Win 7 Home Premium x64 SP1 Retail AOC G2460PG (24" 1920 x 1080 144Hz G-SYNC) 
KeyboardPowerCaseMouse
Filco Majestouch 104-key Cherry MX Blues w/NKRO Corsair HX650 (Bronze, ordered on 12-12-2009) CM 690 Intellimouse Optical (1.1A) 1000Hz polling rate 
Mouse PadAudioAudio
Basic, but premium round X-Fi Titanium HD Klipsch ProMedia 2.1 (with 16 AWG Monster Cable... 
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